Recipe for Disaster?

Hey guys, First things first just wanted to say thanks in advance to any help provided.
I have recently come into a possible problem with my xj that I am looking to sort out, and came to the experts.
I have a 2001 Cherokee sport 2 door. Its bone stock now with a NP242 Select Trac transfer case and Dana 35 rear.
I have recently purchased a used 4.5 rough country lift with the rear, because mine is on its last line of life. It came with a transfer case drop also. I also got 32's on jk rubicon rims with the proper adapters. When I bought everything I didn't at first realize, what I would later when I was cleaning up the rear, and that I actually got a Chrysler 8.25 rear(out of a 97 btw), when the guy thought it was a Dana 35, which in my book is a win as the Chrysler will handle what I am doing for now and I don't have to worry about replacing another Dana 35.
My plan was to just bolt in the lift for now, and worry about re-gearing and an sye later on down the road as it came with the transfer case drop. What is concerning me now is that because I am going from the dana 35 to the Chrysler 8.25 am I going to have issues with drive shaft length and problems with everything mounting to the transfer case. Or can I bolt everything up with no problems for the time being and be okay.
As far as sye goes I was planning on getting a rugged ridge sye and this set up for gear in 4.56 combo http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-d...cial-xj-d30-std-front-chrysler-8-25-rear.html
So at the end of my short story what I am wondering is if I could just bolt everything up for the time being or am I going to have to get the sye now? also what about gears. If I need to do the sye do I need to buy the sye and a new driveshaft or does the sye bolt up with the stock driveshaft, just to get an idea. I was looking to install this upcoming weekend so depending on what I am/am not going to need and funding will ultimately decide when my xj can get its lift.
Thanks guys sorry for the story. Also if anyone picks out something else I am going to need please let me know.
Thank You once again

dont get the RR SYE. get something quality, like advanced adapters. the Tcase drop is designed to be a band aid fix, so you can get away without doing the SYE right away. if you have the coin, just do the SYE. but if you do in fact have the 242, your only option is what they call a "hack and tap" or to call up tom woods. do some research for your options here. but a SYE uses a double cardan shaft (like your front drive shaft) that attaches to fixed yokes at the Tcase and axle, while the slip shaft is in the drive shaft itself.

assuming the DS you have is for your engine/tranny/Tcase/rear axle combo, it should work just fine with a Tcase drop.

im sure i forgot more than half of your questions. lol.

my transfer case reads,
2wd
4 part time
4 full time
N
4LO
which is why is said i have the 242 after reading the faq posted else where on this site.
I was looking at this sye kit http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-d...ance-adapters-sye-tom-wood-cv-driveshaft.html
But like stated it wouldst work and I would have to find a kit or piece together parts for the sye. What I am torn about, is if I could bolt up what I have and run it for the time being considering my rear differential can go out anyday now, which was answered by VAhasnoWAVES.
My second issue was if I should get an SYE or Gears first, and is the motive gears and rebuild kit package rustys offer a good option to get, or should I just save the money and get the gears and fix any seals that may go bad as the go bad. Im aware this is all preference by myself but some opinions from the guys and gals that have done this before is much appreciated.
ALSO for the front gears are the reverse cut d30 gears what I should be looking at?
EDIT:
Hows this for an sye? http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scri...?idproduct=592
Thanks

*double Post*
SOrry

I would swap out your t-case for a 231. You could put the Sye in it and have it ready do the lift and swap it in at the same time saving you time. People may argue with me on this but I have had two fail on me soon then later. Also there is alot of aftermarket parts for it compared to the 242. Good luck!

you'll be fine with the driveshaft and what you have for now, just do the tcase drop if you get vibes. 231's arent much better than 242's i dont think, so just stick with what you have until you break it. you'll probably want an sye eventually though.

You'll be fine without the sye for now.
Do a tcase drop and wait until you have the ability to swap in a 231 in my opinion. The 242 isnt terrible though so it'd be alright for now I just wouldnt put much money into one.
I went on 5" of lift and 33s for a few years with only a tcase drop and now 4" of lift and 38s without either and ive been fine.
The driveshaft length shouldnt be a problem. I swapped out a chrysler for a xj dana 44 a while back and my stock shaft was fine, I believe the chrylser is a few inches longer at the yoke so just check your slip at the tcase.
Worst case scenario you have to go to a junkyard and pull a driveshaft from a cherokee with a chrysler.

Get that thing together and start wheeling! :skull1:

Depending on what you are doing off road, what size tires, engine mods, etc, the 242 will probably be fine. I actually prefer the 242 Tcase.

On the sye I prefer the Tom Woods kit for the late model 242 case:

The Tom Woods SYE is a re-machined 242 output shaft. The late model 242s (96+) have a longer output shaft than the early model 242s. If you are running an early 242 then the H&T is a good option.

I installed the Tom Woods (TW) kit in my 1999 242 case. In my opinion, the TW kit is the only way to go for the late model 242 case. The output shaft is shorter after TW modifies it.

FYI, the Tom Woods machined shaft is a stock shaft that is machined but it is not fair to call it a hack and tap IMHO. The TW shaft is shorter than a do it yourself hack and tap. He machines the splines further up the shaft than the shaft originally came with. That gives you a shorter output shaft which gives you a better angle to the rear end. In addition, the output bearing is closer to the output yoke for better support.



See the attached PIC for comparison

The install is not that difficult. I did it in my garage by myself and left the T case in place. The lift was on and I had plenty of room. Instructions are good but a good set of external snap ring pliers with the flat tips are a MUST. I was slow and did it in 3-4 hours. The most difficult part was installing the back case half holding the case, pump and pump suction tube in place without getting sealant all over myself. Good sealant is highly recommended. I used some stuff I got at Napa and no leaks. It is called the "Right Stuff".

Then when you are done you will have a yoke output instead of a flange output with the H&T.

The TW kits is more expensive because it is more parts and machine work. It also includes a TW CV drive shaft. There is also a $400 core charge on your original 242 output shaft. Once he checks your output shaft and it is not bent you will get a credit of $400 back from TW.

Wow great info guys! I really do appreciate the help so far! The info provided goes along with my plan to build this jeep.the plan that I have is to just replace everything as it breaks! So my rear went bad, and I needed tires so it just so happened everything came with the lift! Next plan is to get 4.56 gears to maintain good driveabilty as I'm a city boy living outside manhatten in the subburbs and mostly drive on the steets. Then my rockers are rotting so it'll be time for frame stiffners and 2x4 steel rockers, full exaughst is in time when stock one rust off etc etc! Ill be certain to post pictures once I have sandra dee(the jeep) sittin pretty on her new springs and tires. Thanks guys!