WJ steering questions

ive got an extra axle that im building for WJ steering, but there are a few things im still wondering...

i plan to swap my '97 unit bearings and shafts into the geared housing, [1] am i correct in my assumption that these are the prefered unit bearings for the swap? i took a good hard look at a WJ the other day and noticed a few things... first off, the axle side track bar mount is super high, the whole coil bucket is raised. so im just going to go ahead and assume now that i need a new axle side mount along with sway bar links. but im wondering, [2] will i need a new/shorter track bar? ive been thinking of moving to a double sheer setup anyway (currently running a RE track bar with a heim at the stock mount) and think between the two new track bar mounts and the proper pitman arm i shouldnt have any problems getting them as level and parallel as possible. but another thing i noticed was that the stock tie rod was bent to clear the diff. [3] will stock TREs work or would something with an offset be called for? personally id like to keep parts over the counter so i can get them anywhere. [4] and what are people doing for steering links (drag link and tie rod)? does someone sell a kit? are people making their own? stock WJ stuff? and what about my track bar thoughts? would something like the JKS "build your own" be the ticket? ill be placing an order with JKS to buy their spacers anyway.

that brings up the topic of brakes and such which is where the majority of my confusion is... [5] are my '97 unit bearings the ones needed with the 1/4" JKS spacer? ive heard talk of explorer rotors being used to to avoid redrilling to the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, [6] which rotors are the desirable rotors? ive also read talk of spacing the calipers with washers or something to properly center them, [7] is this going to be an issue ill have to address with what ive listed? and lastly, [8] will my RE extended brake like bolt right up to the WJ rotors?


EDIT: also... ball joints? WJ uppers and XJ lowers or WJ all around? is it true that WJ lowers are identical to XJ lowers?

i also have 16" moabs, so rims should not be an issue.


i know this is a lot, but its also a lot of specific questions to search for. its quite time consuming and was hoping that someone who has done the swap would chime in with their info. hell, i wouldnt even have these questions if i hadnt searched.

VAhasnoWAVES said:

[1] am i correct in my assumption that these are the prefered unit bearings for the swap?
[2] will i need a new/shorter track bar?
[3] will stock TREs work or would something with an offset be called for?
[4] and what are people doing for steering links (drag link and tie rod)?
[5] are my '97 unit bearings the ones needed with the 1/4" JKS spacer?
[6] which rotors are the desirable rotors?
[7] is this going to be an issue ill have to address with what ive listed?
[8] will my RE extended brake like bolt right up to the WJ rotors?


EDIT: also... ball joints? WJ uppers and XJ lowers or WJ all around? is it true that WJ lowers are identical to XJ lowers?

Click to expand...

ALthough these answers are all over the internet and this site I'll chime in. :eeks1:

1) You will want to use 00-01 TJ/XJ hub bearings. I used Timken HA597449 with redrilled WJ rotors with no additional spacers for the caliper.

2) If you use the upper drag link mount on the WJ knuckle, you will need to raise the trackbar mount up inside the coil bucket. This will also shorten it. JKS makes an Over Axle Bracket that will work for this.

3) If you use use the WJ steering, no. You can also make steering with the small or larger GM tie rod ends, or heims. I wouldn';t use heims on a drag link, but that's just me.

4) You can use stock steering on the lower arm if you also add a ZJ pitman arm. The WJ lower steering arm is 3/4 lower or so than the XJ/TJ knuckle, and the ZJ pitman arm has a 1 inch drop to compensate for this. But then you have lower steering...

I cut and sleeved WJ steering for mine, and flipped over the knuckle. mrblaine (Black Magic Brakes) on here does a great welded in chromoly insert for the WJ taper. You will need either a RHD drag link end for the axle side when flipped, or use a tie rod end. You can also build using offset Gm tie rod ends from Parts Mike. Lots of options for steering.

5) No, you will need 00-01 bearings with WJ rotors. I've heard of people using pre 88ish hubs with SportTrac rotors with no caliper spacers though...

8) Maybe. The issue is the length. The banjo bolt on the WJ stuff is real low. I had some 24 inch ones made and they work with the 6inches of droop I have. Stock style line ends will actually work if you slot them.

The lower ball joint has a different taper than the XJ stuff (2.0 vs 1.5/ft I believe). Upper is the same.

Here are RE lines on Akebono calipers.


I do not like the short trackbar with any of the WJ swaps, due to the bumpsteer ALthough I will say you probably won't notice the bumpsteer if all you like to do is creep down the trails. I like to haul ass so it doesn;t work for me.

Here is how to properly do it so you don't get bumpsteer.

Your track bar mount does not interfere with your steering? Nice, clean work and engineering.

No, but it almost scrapes paint. I had to straighten the pitman arm to make the room.

I can't take all the credit, someone smarter than me did this years ago.





I was able to go out on front of the coil with the trackbar because I moved the coil bucket back. Got me a 2 inch stretch without moving the upper coil bucket (my TJ).

yikes, this is looking like a lot more work than i originally thought.

- are my shafts going to work with the TJ unit bearings?
- in reality my jeep sees 95% street driving, would a raised track bar (not completely reworked like yours) be asking for poor handling characteristics?

Your shafts will work with all years of hub bearings.

I doubt you'll notice it unless you hit large speed bumps.

It's still a bit of fab work to get the trackbar in correct alignment and getting the knuckles flipped. The other option is to get the Vanco brakes, since they are bolt on, and run Currie steering.

Newer style hubs with the spacer, xj ball joints fit perfect. Test fitted before install.
I double sheered mine. With Rock Krawler steering.
Raised trac bar would be better still in the mix.

CrashDawson said:

Newer style hubs with the spacer, xj ball joints fit perfect.

Click to expand...

You sure?

WJ ball joints are 2" per foot and XJ lowers are 1.5" per foot. They will work for a while, probably for a long time, but they do not fit "perfect".

Gaius said:

You sure?

WJ ball joints are 2" per foot and XJ lowers are 1.5" per foot. They will work for a while, probably for a long time, but they do not fit "perfect".

Click to expand...

Maybe not "perfect", but many people have done it for ~8 years now of heavy trail abuse with absolutely no problems.

Myself, I went to WJ lower balljoints, and after seeing how much faster they fail, went back to XJ/TJ lower balljoints.