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CPS -- Napa part okay, or dealership only?

box_goblin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Seattle, WA
I replaced mine (before I came here!!!) with a BWD part -- and it appears to have died 6 months later. I'm getting Ohm readings in the 5 M-Ohm range, so that's a little out of range.

I've seen posts saying that this part is best from the dealership -- curious if anyone has had any luck with the Napa line from Echlin Ignition -- Part number ECH CSS980

Thanks!
 
Echlin is generally a pretty good aftermarket brand, but because of the misery that aftermarket crank sensors have caused myself and others, it is one piece of hardware that I still recommend you purchase from Jeep. It is a critical sensor that can leave you stranded, so the extra money spent is worth it in my opinion.
 
Since it appears you have a 1990 with the Renix system, why don't you try reading the AC voltage output of the CPS during cranking?

.35 minimum, .5 ideal.


Primarily because I could not reach and I didn't have a second set of hands/eyes. My understanding of how those work is that the resistance across the circuit is going to be a relatively good indication of the AC Voltage that is generated by the magnetic field when cranking? Or is there some non-linear relationship between the two where I might still see good voltage generated from cranking with resistance showing around 5,000,000 ohms?
 
I held an OEM part and a WELLS part side by side. The WELLS seemed to be higher quality. MOPAR did not make the CPS sensors, the bough em as cheap as possible. I personally only buy WELLS sensors.
 
Primarily because I could not reach and I didn't have a second set of hands/eyes. My understanding of how those work is that the resistance across the circuit is going to be a relatively good indication of the AC Voltage that is generated by the magnetic field when cranking? Or is there some non-linear relationship between the two where I might still see good voltage generated from cranking with resistance showing around 5,000,000 ohms?

I'm thinking more along the lines of the resistance being within tolerance but the CPS isn't generating enough voltage.
 
I bought two from NAPA, first "better" one was DOA. Second one has been fine in the '89 for a few years now.

Mine had a thermal failure where the resistance would go away with heat, easy to check off the engine, just pop it in a hot oven and check what happens with your meter. Cool and check again.

Mike
 
which can be a simple air gap thing with the flywheel.
And checking the output voltage while cranking would be what I would do if the Res was within (or at all close) to tolerances. I just couldn't imagine it being anywhere close with the resistance that far out of whack.
 
And checking the output voltage while cranking would be what I would do if the Res was within (or at all close) to tolerances. I just couldn't imagine it being anywhere close with the resistance that far out of whack.

5 meg ohms is an open circuit, completely dead sensor, wires (1) not making contact. I had a new one from Autozone 10 weeks ago that would work when it wanted to. And for 10 weeks when I tested it with a meter it would suddenly start after a no start. Then last week I had a no start after 10 days of working perfectly, and the gremlin finally showed itself, with a 5 meg ohm open circuit, and zero cranking voltage. I tried cranking it 3 more times, next 2 cranks it was still dead, and the third time it came back to life. I have a theory now. The coil wire (1) is extremely thin ( I took the bad one I had apart the other day), thin like fine human baby thin hair, insulated ofr the coil, but the end needs to make contact with the apx 20 gage wires (1) that go to the weather pack connector and male pins in it, in some kind of crimp joint I suspect. That contact area sealed inside the CPS, is I think where these beasts are failing, sometimes intermittently, with heat stress and vibration adding to the problem. If the coil to connector wire contact area connection is poor, moving the sensor closer to the flywheel, which boosts the peak signal voltage, can jump the gap of a poor connection inside the CPS better. The isolated Renix CPS should have 125 to 275 ohms of resistance, no more, no less!

I doubt an OEM dealer part is any different or better for the Renix era parts (now 21 years old), since OEM car companies tend to stop supporting vehicles over 7 years old. At this point I would expect many dealer parts like a CPS to be the same import junk everyone else has. That said, there do seem to be different Renix CPS OEMs supplying the same vendors like Standard Products, so some may be better than others. Lastly, even the new ones seem to need to be drilled out larger, the mounting holes, to move the CPS closer to the flex plate to get a stronger signal and to eliminate periodic non starts.

Cruiser54, have you ever wondered how many CPS problems might be aggravated by flex plate bolts slowly coming loose?

While swapping AW4s recently, we discovered several loose bolts on the flex plate on my 87, the one that has always started with an AZ CPS that has not been drilled out to move closer, that only shows .27 V AC while cranking.
 
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