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New to cherokee NEED HELP

murfs66

NAXJA Forum User
Location
So Cal
Heard lots of good stuff about this place.

I just bought a 88 cherokee with a 6.5 RC lift. Looks to have a new track bar and all the components there. The lift was installed , but never drove the jeep due to back DMV fees. I bought it from the guy who installed the lift for $500. Came with 33" tires. Now I am going through this to make sure its safe for the family outings.

I noticed the front tires are a little inward at the top. A bad ball joint? Its on both sides of the jeep. It has never been driven after the lift,nor has had a alignment at all.

What else to check for ?

Thanks, Dave
 
Heard lots of good stuff about this place.
I noticed the front tires are a little inward at the top. A bad ball joint? Its on both sides of the jeep. It has never been driven after the lift,nor has had a alignment at all.

What else to check for ?

Thanks, Dave
That's normal, it's negative wheel camber and typically non-adjustable unless off-set ball joints are installed. Taller tires make it more obvious. Make sure the front axle is centered side-to-side. Check that the front axle pinion is pointed slightly upwards from the horizontal (approximately 5-degrees). Check the toe-in on the front tires (should be 0.0 to 0.125-ish) Check all the steering rod ends by trying to compress the joint parallel to the stud axis using a large pair of pliers. Check the ball joints in a similar fashion by lifting the front axle to take the weight off a wheel then use a long bar to lever up against the bottom of the tire or the steering knuckle. If you can see any play (over 0.030") it's probably "bad". Check for loose fasteners, missing fasteners and cotter pins, worn bushings at the upper and lower control arm ends, track bar, etc, etc ... When you feel confident enough to drive it, start out on dry roads with minimal traffic and work-up the speed slowly; weird stuff can happen quickly. Then get a good alignment.
 
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Thanks guys. That's exactly what I was looking for. It looks like the previous owner didnt put the T-case drop on it. I'll have to do it as well. 1" right?

I also have to check the right length for the disconnects. He also gave me a pair of those and they look to long to me. I'll have to bouble check unless you guys know.

I'm going to dp the garage alignment for now until I know its going smoothly.

Can't wait to get out and go wheeling in this thing.
 
yea id go thru every bolt thats looks remotely critical for tightness. also check your wheel bearings. jack up the front tires and give em a good shake. any looseness they should be replace but dont confuse with bad ball joints. just have someone looking while youre doing it.
 
will do. Thanks.

I did notice that it didnt come with t-case drop on it. I heard that it will need the 1" DROP .Is this correct? I have seem 1.5 also, but it doesnt sound safe for that one.


I aslo noticed that the rear leafs are on the bottom hole whick looks a llittle high, but the jeep is empty (no gas, no spare). should I leave it or bump it down a hole?
 
will do. Thanks.

I did notice that it didnt come with t-case drop on it. I heard that it will need the 1" DROP .Is this correct? I have seem 1.5 also, but it doesnt sound safe for that one.


I aslo noticed that the rear leafs are on the bottom hole whick looks a llittle high, but the jeep is empty (no gas, no spare). should I leave it or bump it down a hole?

Some XJ's need a T case drop after a lift, some dont. If you drive it and notce vibrations from the drive shaft you will want to look into at least a T case drop, ideally an SYE w/ CV driveshaft. Iron Rock Off road sells a hack n' tap kit with a refurb cv shaft for $200.

As for the rear, I assume youre referring to your shackles? If so, the setting is up to you, i.e. do you want the rear lowered? is it level now? Obviouslyy with a spare, gear and a full tank it will sag a bit. Another thing to consider is shackle angle. When viewd from th side, the more vertical your shackle is, the less willing it will be to compress which equates to less articulation. The shackle setting will affect this slighlty.
 
I called rough country and they suggested to put the 1" drop kit for the transfer case. I guess it came with the kit, but I didnt get it when I bought the jeep.

The rear of the jeep is highrer then the front right now, but I guess after a full tank of gas and spare tire with all the gear I'll be setting even. I hope.

Any other suggestions before driving it?

I went through the entire jeep tightening bolts this last weekend. I will attempt to tighten the engine bolts like the pans and all the hoses.

One thing I did notice and am not sure if this is normal is the engine is a hard starting engine. It cranks a little before fireing up. Is this normal?

Also does anyone know where I can buy a draincock for the radiator? None to be found out here.
 
The leaf springs will sag after you drive it a few hundred miles. If it was never driven they're stiff and not broekn in.

THe long crank time is normal, It's a Renix thing. One thing to check thoroughly is all of the grounds. Kastein posted a list of all of them at some point. Especially check the one atthe back of the head.
 
Don't do a t case drop it is hard on your mounts and takes away from the ground clearance. You can get a hack n tap for 100$ and a front shaft for 50$. Oh yea change the fluids since you don't know for sure when it was done last.
 
If you want I would be happy to give it a good once over for you. I don't know where you are located exactly but I work out of a shop in Vista. No charge for inspections.
 
If you want I would be happy to give it a good once over for you. I don't know where you are located exactly but I work out of a shop in Vista. No charge for inspections.


Funny I just moved from Temecula 4 months ago down to Camarillo by the beach. Its pretty far to Vista from here, But when we go to Ocatillo Wells I'll have to look you up to do some wheeling.

Thanks...for the offer..though.
 
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