Bilstein 5150 with 4.5" lift (me overthinking things)

I think I've decided on the 5150s for my XJ. Just really up in the air on the size I should go with. That and if I should even drop the coin to replace what I have, or just wait a bit and spend the money on more important things.

I have Rusty's 4.5" springs and my old skyjacker shocks have seen better days. Rusted, dented a bit and the boots are beat up. They still resist extension and compression, but do not extend on their own. Any shock I have dealt with does, so is this normal with some shocks, or are they in fact worn out? If it is normal, I may just wait and spend the money on something else. (Like a steering wheel for my PS3/GT5)

If I do replace them, here are my current shock measurements/plans/thoughts.

Extended: 28.5"
Collapsed: 17.25"
Travel: 11.25"

If it was sitting on the bumpstops, it would leave a little bit before the shock was bottomed out. Could get some measurements, but it's way too cold out to mess with that right now.

Before I measured my current shocks, this is what I was looking at for replacements.

Travel: 10.17"
Extended: 25.9"
Collapsed: 15.9"

Basically, I'll lose an inch of travel and have an overall shorter shock. After taking into account that I will need a stem-to-eyelet adapter, I figured they would add about two inches to the overall length. Being that I have the little extra room, it could be the perfect collapsed length at 17.9" (If I'm correct on the adapter length), then I would only be losing about 0.6" in extended length and usable travel. So really, it's looking a little better.

So me being me, I started to worry about whether I would want more travel then that. Really don't want to end up spending the money again because I didn't plan ahead. The reason being, I plan to add around 1" (maybe slightly more) spacers in the near future to level the front out with the back. Right now, it's got a bit of rake that really annoys me.

So then, I started looking at these (since the 11" travel only comes in the 170/60 valving)...

Travel: 11.94"
Extended: 29.7"
Collapsed: 17.9"

Now taking into account the adapter again, this would leave me much longer at the collapsed length then I think is acceptable. (Which is why I'm asking on here, because I'm not as knowledgeable on this yet.) I really like the sound of almost twelve inches of travel and the extra overall length. So I guess what I'm wondering, is am I correct with the measurement issues after taking the adapters into account, and do I even really need the extra travel?

I don't do any rock crawling(there are none around here), this is mostly a camping rig that I take on the local trails with maybe a log to cross over every once in a while. I do like to make it as capable as possible though, just in case I do come across something that requires that little bit more. Eventually, I plan to road trip with my XJ, stopping in different areas to camp and wheel.

So what do you think, am I fine with the 10.17" travel shocks and just over thinking this; or would the 12" travel shock work and the issues I'm thinking I will have not really be present/have a way around them.

10 inch travel shocks is what you need

170/60 valving is gonna be waayy to soft

you need 255/70 atleast in a jeep application

Have you seen the 5160s? They are bolt-in (no bpe/adapter) and have a nice size resi.

10" travel 255/70 valving.

Travel: 11.94"
Extended: 29.7"
Collapsed: 17.9"

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i bought this sizing shock for my 6" lift. I think you'd really be pushing it to fit them under a 4" lift, especially with converted mounts. the bottom you obviously would just install a bar pin, so you wouldn't lose any there.

above all, dont buy expensive shocks just to replace them in the near future for longer ones. get your lift figured out, then buy shocks. good ones are expensive.

on a side note, I just bought the 5165 series for mine. they are basicly the same dollars as the 5125's, and the remote resi isnt fixed to the shock. this gives you plenty of options for mounting it. Plus, a 5160 is essentially a 7100 body, which makes it rebuildable / revalveable.

Speaking of valving, you definitely want to be in the 255/70 valving.

The 5160 series is a direct fit type shock. no adapting needed. unfortunatly, they dont have a 5160 for more than a 4" lift. also, the valving in the 5160 shocks are modeled after the oem specs, and you cant order them any different.

If you want to order a specific valve, you need to go to the 5165, which is the same shock but with an eyelet top and bottom. they are designed for custom applications, and you have alot of options with sizing, and 3 valving options.

Guess I wasn't clear, but I had already decided on the 255/70 valving. Was just stating that the 11" shock only came in the lighter valving, making it not an option, otherwise it would probably be perfect. The 5165 appears to be even more expensive then 7100s would run me, so I'll be sticking with the 5150.

Maybe I will just throw some cheap shocks on there for now. Then when I get the chance, I'll cut out the upper mount and weld a new mount on top, so I can fit the 12" travel shocks.

Guess i didnt understand your question clearly. In my opinion, the 10.25" travel shock you posted is too short, and the 12" travel shock will be too long. you need to be in the middle.

theres many options in either travel length. But the 10" shock you posted has 2.5" less travel than what you are running now, thats a huge difference!

We could sit here and speculate all day, but there is no way to know what you can fit unless you measure...

the only way your going to get an accurate measure is by unhooking your shocks, and flexing your axle out as far up and dropping it as far down as your are comfortable with.

you can buy a bar pin for your shock, Bilstein makes a nice vulcanized part.

On the stud side, Id plan to lose about 1.5" in length. I try to give myself about 1/2" leeway on the collapsed and the extended measurement, so it isnt bottomed out.

Was going to measure today, but it snowed a few inches and the temp dropped to the negatives. So I might just put the old shocks back in until summer. Had things taken a part to replace the wheel bearing and brakes anyways, so figured I'd do shocks. I think I want to do a little more research before I drop the cash on some good new shocks.

A cheap shock probably wont be much better then these worn out ones, so I don't see the point in wasting any money that way. Once I get my car driving again, this should only see the road every once in a while anyways.

255-70 is STILL too soft for my taste. I can't stand mine.

lowrange2 said:

255-70 is STILL too soft for my taste. I can't stand mine.

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I have front 5150s, with the 255-70 valving, and they are much too soft for my taste. I was expecting a much firmer, better controlled ride.
They are nice on our decaying freeways.

lazyxj said:

I have front 5150s, with the 255-70 valving, and they are much too soft for my taste. I was expecting a much firmer, better controlled ride.
They are nice on our decaying freeways.

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With OEM springs and a spacer upfront I too found the 255-70 valving too soft for my likeing. I have since replaced the OEM springs and spacers with an after market spring that will give me the required ride height without the spacer and the ride have firmed up nicely.