new heater hoses - reuse metal parts?

So I found out, in a most inconvenient place, far from home, that my heater hoses are somewhat soft and prone to bursting. (worked out ok, the split was close to the end and I just cut off the offending part and reattached, refilled and drove home)
But anyhoo....Yesterday I'm taking a look at what I need to replace all of the hoses and I notice the heater hoses are crimped onto some metal tees. These are probably huge $$$ from anywhere so I'm wondering if anyone can think of a downside to cutting off the crimps with a dremel/grinder and then just using generic heater hose and hose clamps?

are you sure the hoses with the crimpped ends are heater hoses not AC hoses? from my experience, the heater hoses (goes to the heater core) have been just plain jane rubber heate hose.

it may help to post up some pictures of what your talking about. also, trace the lines back and see where they go. if they go to the ac compressor, they are not heater lines.

definitely heater hoses. the metal parts are up by the firewall and for example one of them tees off to go to the coolant overflow tank (I know, I know, I should convert to a 'regular' system -but I don't agree with the rationale for doing that)

I think a problem might be that the metal tees are a smaller diameter than the nipples at the other end of the hoses (ie off the cylinder head)

still, wondering if anyone has tried it....

Many of us have just cut off the crimps and clamped on replacement hoses... but I didn't just use standard heater hose. Several if not all of the hoses change diameter, so it may start as 3/4" at the head, but end up 5/8" at the tee. You can try clamping a larger hose i.e. 3/4" onto a 5/8" nipple, but I'm never comfortable doing this.

Previous thread on renix heater hose part numbers.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69671&highlight=heater+hose

Search manufactures like Dayco, AC Delco and goodyear to find comparable cross referenced numbers if you can't find these.

I got all mines from www.rockauto.com

ditto.

I replaced the tee with the heater valve with an all metal from NAPA for about 40 bucks, used all new hoses from the dealer and re-used the other metal tee.
It was expensive but now I don't have to worry.

if I understand correctly, i can buy the rubber hoses (changing diameter from one end to the other) from the dealer, not crimped onto the metal tees?

seems odd - I would have expected they would only be available pre-crimped on so that they could make it a 'dealer only' item for big $$...

you can make you own "metal t" using copper pipe and sweating elbows or t's together and 5/8x11/16 heater hose should work for everything.

If I remember correctly 5-90 had a write-up about this a while back...I'm not sure if he is selling them through his web site though--you might want to check with him.

Jess said:

you can make you own "metal t" using copper pipe and sweating elbows or t's together and 5/8x11/16 heater hose should work for everything.

If I remember correctly 5-90 had a write-up about this a while back...I'm not sure if he is selling them through his web site though--you might want to check with him.

Click to expand...

he does, pictures as well. I might be able to forward on his email if I still have it.

I saw no reason to replace the one tee, it was fine and the edges are rolled so I had no worries clamping a new hose on. Now the heater core was plastic and I've had those pop apart on other vehicles when they age, so a nice new all metal was a must for me...

I think I found that link with the copper lines - cool idea! It makes sense - replace as much flexible line as possible with copper, and reduce chances of a future rupture - and if you do get a rupture all you need is a basic straight piece of generic heater hose. I gotta do this.

fuzzydog said:

if I understand correctly, i can buy the rubber hoses (changing diameter from one end to the other) from the dealer, not crimped onto the metal tees?

seems odd - I would have expected they would only be available pre-crimped on so that they could make it a 'dealer only' item for big $$...

Click to expand...

Not quite... Should you decide to go this route, only one hose is needed from the dealer, the one from the bottom of the coolant tank to the tee. The others you can get from aftermarket manufacturers likes gates, dayco, ac delco, or goodyear. It may have to be a combination of brands to get a complete set.

On RENIX, there are three hoses that have different IDs at each end (5/8" to 3/4") -
1) The hose going into the bottom of the "football" - it's also a funky bend, and I haven't worked out an effective replacement yet. Can be had from the dealer
2) The heater hose going into the thermostat housing is 5/8" at the "T" end, and 3/4" at the thermostat housing.
3) The heater hose going into the lower (I think) nipple at the firewall is also 3/4" at the nipple, and 5/8" at the "T" fitting.

Those crimp sleeves are aluminum, and can be cut readily with a hacksaw and removed. I find it easiest to cut through, and then use a wide flat screwdriver (insert and twist) to open up the sleeve. Toss them in your scrap aluminum bin (scrap metal can fun projects, y'know...)

Regular hose clamps will work to hold new hoses on, but check the "T" fittings carefully! They're steel, and subject to rusting. If they're rusted, duplicate using 1/2" copper tubing and fittings (which has a 5/8" OD, and fits the 5/8" ID hose neatly. Solder carefully.

Here's a link to my copper heater plumbing setup - http://www.geocities.com/jeepi6power/cuhtrhse.jpg (LARGE pic!)

I haven't started offering it for sale yet - and I'm not sure I will. I'd have to figure out how to break it down to go into a box, or find boxes large enough for it, and I'd have to be able to pressure-test each one. I also haven't finished refining it just yet - I did it in a hurry, and it's not quite as neat as I'd like. The valve is for backflushing - open for normal operation, close for flushing. It forces reverse water flow through the system. The hose bibb-looking fitting is just that - a hose bibb with a brass cap. The cap is permanent, the o-ring under it is replaced whenever the cap is removed (about every two years.) I get the o-rings in bulk anyhow, so it's not a problem to replace them.

Don't ask me for measurements - I've lost my notes, and they're a "jumping-off" point for refinement anyhow...

5-90