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Prep for a SYE.

D

Dulltip

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arizona
I'm starting to prep for an SYE install and wanted to make sure my parts/tools list was up to snuff.

The jeep - 96 Cherokee with a NP231 bolted up to an AW4
SYE - Advance Adapter.s 50-7906 SYE NP231 Fixed Yoke Kit (SYE kit) 32 Spline output shaft.
Axle - Front Cherokee axle installed backwards. New U joints prior to install. (I don't do serious rock crawling just my hunting rig that sees rough terrain in Southern Arizona)


Tools - Kind of where I'm looking for advise. All the basic tools needed to pull the back housing off, various types of spring pliers, and gear pullers. I'm sure I have enough to be able rebuild the T-Case if I had to having done that with a Dana T-case already.

ATF oil - choice undecided yet.

Does anyone know if the Adapter kit comes with U Joint straps or will I need to find those at the junkyard?

Starting to wonder if I should just pull the T-case and do it on the bench or leave it in the jeep and do it on the creeper.
 
I did mine just fine in the jeep. All I did was put the rear on ramps to give me some room and I could actually sit up under the jeep to do it. If you do that, just make sure to block the front wheels really securely.

As for tools, the main thing you will need is a GOOD set of snap ring pliers. Other than that you should need basic sockets/rachets. You will need a 12 point socket, I can't remember the size, for one of the T-case half bolts. It is around a 10-13mm I think. You will also need a large socket (21 maybe again I can't remember) to get the yokes off. An impact wrench would be really helpful in getting the yokes off. Also make sure you have RTV to seal it all up when you put it back together.

I don't remember my sye coming with U-joint straps, but the front shaft I got had some with it so you may have to get those. They are not the same straps as the axle end so make sure you get the correct ones there.

I just used the fluid called for by the factory and it works fine for me.
 
The 231 will be perfectly happy on whatever ATF you want to use. I use the same cheap Coastal Dex/Merc that I keep around for making penetrating lube.

... not sure why the axle is installed backwards though? I'm confused, is this for a rear steer setup? Are you sure the driveshaft will be spinning the right way? Maybe I'm overthinking this.

For an SYE I'm pretty sure you don't need the U-joint straps at least at the transfer case end, since it's a CV / double cardan style bolt-through yoke. You're not supposed to reuse them, but you can get away with it, just pull some off a jeep at the junkyard.
 
whoops.... DUH!

Replace the word 'axle' in that post with 'drive shaft'.... hadn't had my morning coffee yet and was in a rush.

I'm going to use a front stock drive shaft on the rear of the T-Case down the rear axle. Hope that explains that better.
 
OK, that makes a lot more sense. Sounds like it should work fine to me!
 
Dulltip said:
whoops.... DUH!

Replace the word 'axle' in that post with 'drive shaft'.... hadn't had my morning coffee yet and was in a rush.

I'm going to use a front stock drive shaft on the rear of the T-Case down the rear axle. Hope that explains that better.
Click to expand...

Aw man I was kinda hoping for pics of a D30 installed in the rear or something. Also, I've heard that the pliers that lock make it much easier
 
No new straps with the kit, and i dont see why you would need new ones unless yours are old as shit and or rusted, damaged.

I just did mine a week ago, for the first time ever. I also left it in the jeep. Nothing really heavy you have to worry about fallin on you, if thats why you wanted to take it out of the jeep. having an extra set of hands is good too. Go slow, read the instructions (i actually didnt use the aa instructions, but some online write up) and it should be a cake walk.

basic hand tools, SNAP ring and LOCK ring pliers, rtv, gasket scraper.
 
Lock Ring Pliers, make sure you have a pair. Probably the one tool most people do not have when they dive into this project. You will need them.

lockringpliers_main.gif
 
I would just add that you should also seriously consider getting a new shift fork and possibly chain if you haven't replaced them already. The plastic pads on the shift fork are probably worn out or have fallen off and since you'll be in there now is the time to replace them.




(and my son wanted to add a smiley so here it is):wave:
 
I wouldn't say get a whole shift fork. But its not a bad idea to have new pads on hand. I got them for my '99, but the stockers were still good to go. The chain isn't a terrible idea, but not necessary. I'd inspect the one in there before I dropped the coin on a new one.
 
Kittrell said:
Lock Ring Pliers, make sure you have a pair. Probably the one tool most people do not have when they dive into this project. You will need them.

lockringpliers_main.gif
Click to expand...

Just a little clarification, the pliers on the right are conventional "outside" snap-ring pliers. The pic of the one on the left, is a "lock-ring" pliers. As youve stated is a "must have" I agree. I've heard the lock ring pliers being described as having "duck bill " ends. The pic doesn't show very well but the plier end has 2 flat "duck bills" which the lock ring is opened with. You would see very well what I'm talking about with a side view.
 
holy cats now that's a write up.... nice.

But it's a tad more than I'm looking to do this time around.


thanks for the info guys.
cmc
 
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