D44 Hi-Steer questions

[JeepFreak21]

OK, I'm brainstorming for the steering on the front 44 I'm working on. After some research, I think I've decided on TREs (from a FJ80). I've been told that I'll have to tap the DOM tubing because they don't make inserts big enough for these TREs. Besides that, am I going to have a problem finding hi steer arms that'll take the bigger rod ends? Am I going to be able to modify my pitman arm to work? Has anyone bent their 3/8" wall tie rod?
Thanks!
Billy

[CRASH]

Why, in heavens name, would you go with exotic FJ-80 TRE's, when you can buy one ton Chevrolet TRE's and tubing inserts for very little money?

I bought all my Chevy TRE's and inserts for $175. They are hell for stout, every parts store carries them, and people usually have spares on the trail.

I use .25" wall 4130 cromo for my drag link and tie rod, and have never bent them. But then, I don't cruise the mall that often. :D

CRASH

[JeepFreak21]

Originally posted by CRASH
Why, in heavens name, would you go with exotic FJ-80 TRE's, when you can buy one ton Chevrolet TRE's and tubing inserts for very little money?

I bought all my Chevy TRE's and inserts for $175. They are hell for stout, every parts store carries them, and people usually have spares on the trail.

I use .25" wall 4130 cromo for my drag link and tie rod, and have never bent them. But then, I don't cruise the mall that often. :D

CRASH

Well, there's a few people on the pirate board that make the Chevy TREs sound weak (granted they're probably the same ppl that insist on rockwells, but still...)
Would the Chevy TREs be more adaptable to my pitmann arm and the hi steer arms?
Thanks for the input Crash!

[vintagespeed]

I just wonder if you'll have tire clearance with a big TRE like that. I bent my last steering .388 wall DOM with a harbor fake hydraulic pipe bender. Wasn't at all difficult. The only thing that sucks about the heavy wall tube is drilling it straight. Find someone with a lathe.

[JeepFreak21]

I'm going to be running 10" rims w/ 3.5" bs if that helps. Also, if I go w/ the Chevy rod ends, then should I tap the tube or weld in threaded inserts?

[vintagespeed]

I've had no problems wheeling with threaded DOM. With 3 or more inches of thread surface, you're not gonna pull it out.

[CRASH]

It's so much easier to use weld-in inserts, and they will never have an issue if you have them done by a competent welder.

7/8" fine thread left hand taps are pricey.

POR is full of good info sometimes, but it's also full of a lot of BS. Chevy 1 ton TRE's are definately not weak.

CRASH

[JeepFreak21]

Originally posted by CRASH
It's so much easier to use weld-in inserts, and they will never have an issue if you have them done by a competent welder.

7/8" fine thread left hand taps are pricey.

POR is full of good info sometimes, but it's also full of a lot of BS. Chevy 1 ton TRE's are definately not weak.

CRASH

Who has the best price on the inserts?

[CRASH]

Call or PM Adam Ant on POR (Rosemont Automotive, on Kiefer). I think they are $12 a piece. He can also get you the Chevy ends for a good price.

CRASH

[JeepFreak21]

Originally posted by CRASH
Call or PM Adam Ant on POR (Rosemont Automotive, on Kiefer). I think they are $12 a piece. He can also get you the Chevy ends for a good price.

CRASH

Thanks