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Cracked exhaust manifold

probably the cheapest way is to get the old manifold welded up, but it will break again. another option is a header, like borla, banks, etc. i just recently replaced my cracked manifold with an apn header, looked pretty stout and came out to like 160 shipped. it comes in raw steel, so i chose to paint it with some high temp paint i found at home depot. but, regardless of brand you get, put a section of flex pipe on your exhaust. that way it helps prevent future issues. i searched naxja for about a week to see what everyone else did, and more often than not it was the apn header.
 
And also check your engine mounts. A broken mount will allow the engine to torque over more and put a higher strain on the exh manifold. The flex connection will help.
 
YEAR?! ENGINE?!

Makes a difference.

87-90 4.0 have EGR and o2 located in the exhaust header, and that is why most aftermarket headers say 91+; however, you can have two bungs welded into a 91+ header for the 87-90 setup.

The APN (or ATP from rockauto.com) is the best aftermarket header out there without giving up your first born male child for a "race" header you don't need unless you have a stroker. Best price: http://www.ineedparts.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=15343

And yes, if your engine/trans mounts are crap you will just keep cracking the exhaust.

Also, you can add a piece of stainless flex tube in the downpipe before the CAT to relieve torque and unibody flex stress on the exhaust: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=FLEXPIPE-250x8
 
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