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Clunk as i accelerate??

bellingham

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oregon
So this does not happen every time, but... When i come to a stop and then go to accelerate i sometimes experience a clunk. I dont know much but it feels like either the slack being taken out in the rear end either diff or drive line? Not sure what it is so i would love any suggestions? If i go real easy on accelerator i dont feel it. 1997 XJ sport 4wd stock all around...for now.
 
slip joint on the rear driveshaft where it goes into the transfer case. disco the drive shaft from the rear diff, lube the spines on the other end where it goes into the t-case, and reassemble. done.
 
So by lubing am i fixing the problem, or am i just allowing more time tell failure? What is axle wrap? Thanks for the input so far, i need educated!!!
 
Yep, check the engine and trans mounts, and yes, use a HEAVY grease on the spline and lots of it.

Sometimes you can develop enough wear in the R&P to get a good bit of movement and corresponding noise--wheels on the ground, trans in neutral crawl under there and try and turn the driveshaft and see how much movement you have at the yoke on the differential.
 
I couldnt upload link. You should go to jeepforum.com ,go to cherokee tech, and search the trans. thread. There is a step by step article on ot w/ pics. He uses anti seaze lube.
 
LINK

This is my first write up so bear with me. I could never find a write up for greasing the slip joint for 97+ XJ’s that causes the clunk on braking right before a stop and also a clunk on initial acceleration. So I decided when I did mine I would take some pics(not sure how to make click free,sorry). So here goes.

Tools needed:
-New CV clamp (see pic below)
-Anti-seize (used as a replacement for grease; saw it on another thread somewhere)
-Ratchet and socket for U-joint straps(can’t remember off the top of my head what size)
-Hammer
-Spray paint
-About 45 min.

Here is pics of the clamp and anti-seize:
DSCN1288.jpg

Sorry for the blurry pic
DSCN1307.jpg


First start off by marking your driveshaft with paint to ensure that it gets reinstalled the way it came out as to not knock off the balance of the driveshaft.
DSCN1285.jpg


Really all you need to mark is where the shaft and pinion meet. I kept the wheels on the ground and put the trans in park to insure that the output shaft of the xfer case would stay the same. Now you can cut the clamp off the boot or use a screwdriver or something. It is the one on the right:
DSCN1276.jpg


Then go about removing the four bolts on the U-joint straps. Those right there, there are 2 on each side:
DSCN1267.jpg


After the removal of the straps push the driveshaft towards the xfer case to get enough clearance for the U-joint to clear the pinion. It may take a little effort to break free the U-joint. I had to tap it with a hammer to get it to. Be careful with the caps on the U-joint, mine fell off a few times so you could put tape on them to hold them on. Now just pull out the driveshaft.

Now lock down the shaft so you can deal with the female end without it moving all about. I put mine in a vise. As you can see there was very little grease left:
DSCN1292.jpg


I took a rag and cleaned out any grease left in there. Then you can start applying the anti-seize. I applied it pretty liberally but you probably don’t need that much. Now get up under the Jeep and put some also on the output shaft. This also had very little grease:
DSCN1301.jpg


I figure more is better than not enough.
DSCN1314.jpg

DSCN1323.jpg


Now you are ready for reassembly. Push the slip joint together making sure to line up the paint. Now back it off until it seats with the pinion; basically the reverse of disassembly. Bolt the straps on and then move back to the boot that we have to clamp back on. I used a universal clamp that needed no tools since I had no CV clamp tools. If you have the tools it probably will be a little easier since these clamps are a little hard to work with. After much avail however I got mine on nice and tight. Like I said this only took me 45 min. and I was taking my time. After that you are done and hopefully your problem is solved. I have been running like this for a few months with no clunking but I read somewhere that his has lasted something like 6 years so I guess time will tell.

If I left anything out please feel free to comment. As I said this is my first write up.
 
EXCELLENT!!! WELL DONE!!!! Bayhunter write up.

-------------------
Added???

---Set Emergency Brake and block wheels----

- caution- the driveshaft is thin tubing DO NOT crush or bend.
_ caution- male part has seal behind it, be careful of strong solvents

-Best Regards-
 
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MISC thoughts...

You will not throw your drive shaft balance off by installing it on the yoke 180 degrees off from where it was. This caution was meant for drive shafts with a slip yoke in them. If you disassemble the slip joint on those, reassembling those drive shafts out of phase will cause a problem because the drive shaft is balanced as an assembly.

Anti-seize is not a lubricant. Did the factory use anti-seize? No they did not, they greased it and booted it. Put anti-seize on there and you will be back in there scrapeing that crud off and replacing it with grease.

You can get away with just removing the rear band and pushing the boot forward. Grease and reassemble. The boot will return to it's natural position and seal on the drive shaft.

Ron
 
ok then; 1/2 a EXCELLENT and 1/2 a WELL DONE!!

:cheers:

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I pull driveshaft and use MOLY Grease and tyewraps (2).

Seems to last a long time and it lets you know when it needs more service.
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The loctite anti-seize was used long ago because it's loaded with extreme pressure stuff for anti galling etc.. seemed to work ok in this application.
 
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My '96 has the rubber boot at the yoke, and I just greased it whem I put it back in. Mine also clunked, just as you describe. But, what I noticed was that the clamps had long since rusted, and either slid out of position or disappeared entirely. I got a few sets of leaf spring clamps from NAPA, and the clunking is about 95% cured. I can make it happen, but in normal driving it is all but gone. The only caveat I've found is that the leaves want to slide, so you can't crank 'em down too tight.
000_1217.jpg
 
slip joint on the rear driveshaft where it goes into the transfer case. disco the drive shaft from the rear diff, lube the spines on the other end where it goes into the t-case, and reassemble. done.

x2...
had similar issue as described by the OP. Installed SYE and rear ds last weekend. Issue resolved.
 
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