Rear Drive shaft Double cardian..

I am currently running some repaired 1310 Tom Woods rear DS. I was recently wheeling and broke the rear ujoint. It looks like the tab broke on the rear axle yoke and the trunnion came out and sheared one of the ears. I believe the last time I talked with Tom about it he suggested that the lack of gearing was contributing to my issues. Now I have 5.38's I seem to have broken it again. I think the next step up would be 1350's. I have heard of other guys running 1410's too. Is it possible to build a rear out of parts from another truck? What would I look for in the JU to build a bigger rear shaft? Thoughts and suggestions welcome.

On the trail:


Back in the shop:

What does that have to do with a double cardan joint?

I've run 1310 drivelines for years and blown up every (expensive) part in my front 60, with 4.56 gears. The only time I've ever had an issue with the yoke tabs was if I actually landed on the yoke, and I repaired it by welding a half washer in place.

My yokes are all aftermarket though, no junkyard Spicer stuff. I don't know if that makes a difference or not.

My rear u-joint is a 1310-1350 conversion joint (1350 yoke on the axle), same story.

Glen, build a traction bar. That ujoint went because of axle wrap.

vetteboy said:

What does that have to do with a double cardan joint?

I've run 1310 drivelines for years and blown up every (expensive) part in my front 60, with 4.56 gears. The only time I've ever had an issue with the yoke tabs was if I actually landed on the yoke, and I repaired it by welding a half washer in place.

My yokes are all aftermarket though, no junkyard Spicer stuff. I don't know if that makes a difference or not.

My rear u-joint is a 1310-1350 conversion joint (1350 yoke on the axle), same story.

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Yea I think this one had a washer welded wher ethe tab broke. I am running basically the same thing. 1310 - 1330 IIRC. Double cardian was the first thing to break, it actually twisted. Was wondering what was next up in sizes and what kinda trucks I would look under in the JY to build a bigger one...

BRIANHO13 said:

Glen, build a traction bar. That ujoint went because of axle wrap.

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I hope not. Then I will have to 4 link it!

I run 1310's with no issue. Build a traction bar or link it.

The double-cardan is the CV-style joint at the back of the transfer case...what you show in the pictures is a single-cardan joint.

Semantics rule.

I didn't even consider axle wrap (leaf springs? what are those?) but that is definitely what caused your problem. That being the case, both the 1330 and 1350 have less angular capacity than a 1310, so if you're effectively maxing out the joint by wrapping the axle, a 13xx joint won't solve your issue.

A 1410 may band-aid it enough, but at a certain point I would admit to myself that axle wrap sucks enough to do something about it.

BRIANHO13 said:

I run 1310's with no issue. Build a traction bar or link it.

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Ok Mr HD Engineering what did you do? Got a link to pictures or threads that address the issue?

I got Neapco u-bolt yokes after breaking off a centering tab on an old strap-style Spicer. They have significantly thicker centering tabs than the Spicers I had before.

Band-aid? Yes.
Effective? So far.
Link a full body Cherokee? Nope.

Yeah, looks like axle wrap to me, the joint broke when it was in a bind........doesn't take much in that situation. If you broke the CV at the same time it's because of the bind.

Especially with 5.38's a 1310 would normally live just fine. But, you could get a 1350 yoke and a 1350 yoke/slip for the driveline, which is defintely stronger. My rear shaft is a 1310 CV at the t-case and 1350 at the pinion. I broke the CV once, but I've never broken the 1350.

Goatman said:

Yeah, looks like axle wrap to me, the joint broke when it was in a bind........doesn't take much in that situation. If you broke the CV at the same time it's because of the bind.

Especially with 5.38's a 1310 would normally live just fine. But, you could get a 1350 yoke and a 1350 yoke/slip for the driveline, which is defintely stronger. My rear shaft is a 1310 CV at the t-case and 1350 at the pinion. I broke the CV once, but I've never broken the 1350.

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The CV broke this summer at the Crawl. It actually twisted the yoke.



Not sure if you can see it in the picture, but that joint will not press right out. It is twisted in the DC.

So basically I need to build a TB.