Painting Axles

Not being an expert and understanding all the differences in primers and paints, I'm looking for input on what to use on my axles when i repaint them. I'd like the job to last a few years, but I don't want to spend a small fortune and it has to be a rattle can job.

I intend to remove as much of the rust as i can from the axle and use some converter product to hit what's left. From there, the choices of primers (especially) and paints are dizzying.

Up to now, I've just been using a standard metal primer from Rustoleum and their Camoflauge series Rust-stop paints. I don't know how good these are compared to other home center available offerings.

In the primer department, there's etching, zinc, sandable, and what appears to be just "primer" - like the one I have been using. Paints are endless and here I don't know if the finish makes a difference - flat, satin, semi-gloss, etc - in durability.

How many coats of each? Usually, I just put on one-two coats of primer so that it's covered good...then 3-4 coats of paint. My thought was always "more is going to be better..." does that really hold true?

Is there another product that put over the paint will make it tougher for rocks and such to remove my paint job?

Thanks for the help!

Rob

The most important part of painting is the prep. You're laying down plenty of coats. Just make sure the base metal is corrosion free and you should be ok.

The last time I painted my front end I used Appliance enamel. got it from HD its got a pic of a refrig. and washer on front. Its great because it has a hard top coat. I used gloss black and when I wash the front end It really shines.

I painted my entire utility trailer (1.5 years ago) and my 8.8 recently with just tremclad from tractor supply. 2 coats primer, 2-3 coats paint. Has held up good.

Anyone have before and after pics of their work? I'm interested in doing this as well.

use POR 15.... you will never use anything else period!

mgreen84 said:

use POR.... you will never use anything else period!

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I used POR on my axle, and it actually decided to chip off. I know everyone says that this is the best paint, and it will last through everything, but I have not had this experience.

Begster said:

I used POR on my axle, and it actually decided to chip off. I know everyone says that this is the best paint, and it will last through everything, but I have not had this experience.

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i just bought an axle that the previous owner had just repainted with POR and it is chipping as well.

Begster said:

I used POR on my axle, and it actually decided to chip off. I know everyone says that this is the best paint, and it will last through everything, but I have not had this experience.

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its all in the prep, POR actualy bonds.... not dries... therefore if there is the least amount of grease or road grime on the axle it will not bond.... degreaser, hot water, and a stiff bristle brush followed by a wipe down with a cloth soaked in alcohol before painting... if done right.. the stuff is top of the line...

VHT Black Caliper Paint is pretty tough.... resists heat, brake dust and all chemicals...

No paint will ever hold up to rocks. If your draggin your axles over rocks then the paint will chip/scratch off. I usually wire wheel/grind/sand/clean then pessure wash then rub down with Xylene. Bare metal I will use etching primer if I can get it and if not just regular metal primer. A couple coats to cover everything then a couple satin black coats and Im good to go. Will be doing this with my new to me axles soon. Might use Hammerite paint though, thicker and more durable.

It's all about the powdercoat

mgreen84 said:

its all in the prep, POR actualy bonds.... not dries... therefore if there is the least amount of grease or road grime on the axle it will not bond.... degreaser, hot water, and a stiff bristle brush followed by a wipe down with a cloth soaked in alcohol before painting... if done right.. the stuff is top of the line...

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I used it on an axle that I built, not one that I had sitting under a car. I had completely taken the entire housing down to bare metal, it was welded on, and then cleaned up again, and primer was used. The knuckles were sandblasted, and no primer was used for those. POR didn't really hold up as well as everyone kept saying it was going to.

crazyjim said:

It's all about the powdercoat

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Ohhhhh look a polished turd.:laugh:

-Alex

Ba-Riedo said:

Ohhhhh look a polished turd.:laugh:

-Alex

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It doesn't look like an 8.8...


:clap:

ECKSJAY said:

It doesn't look like an 8.8...


:clap:

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But the pumpkin is off center.

-Alex

Ba-Riedo said:

Ohhhhh look a polished turd.:laugh:

-Alex

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Works great for my go fast stuff... I know most of you are scared to use the skinny pedal through the rough stuff

Setup for coilovers, light weight, less unsprung weight.

Begster said:

I used POR on my axle, and it actually decided to chip off. I know everyone says that this is the best paint, and it will last through everything, but I have not had this experience.

Click to expand...

To get the most out of POR15 you're advised to use their Marine grade degreaser, then their metal etcher, then paint 2-3 coats. Pretty spendy when the gallon alone costs 250+$

I use whatever is cheapest at Lowe's, and lots of it

start with the ugly….



gut it…..



strip it down to bare metal….



prime it….



shoot it with semi-gloss or gloss (mud sticks to flat)…..





reinstall…..

I used it on an axle that I built, not one that I had sitting under a car. I had completely taken the entire housing down to bare metal, it was welded on, and then cleaned up again, and primer was used. The knuckles were sandblasted, and no primer was used for those. POR didn't really hold up as well as everyone kept saying it was going to.

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That's because it's STILL a moisture cure urethane. So unless you do your prep PERFECTLY right, you're going to end up with disappointing results. And even then you paid too much for a mediocre product.

IMO if you're going to take it all apart like crazyjim and Jeff did, do yourself a favor. Get some cheapass Kirker (Eastwood) epoxy primer, and some cheapass OMNI single stage, and rest assured that you have a near bulletproof finish when compared to rattle can or POR.

Or get it powdercoated