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Help me choose a steering set up.

M

mindless

NAXJA Forum User
Location
West Seneca NY
Well ive been running a rugged ridge set up for over a year and am completely sick of band aiding it over and over. Ive been looking though thread after thread and just cant really decide on what i want.

My buddy just got the Currie set up and he seems to like it but im not a huge fan of the beefed up stock style set up. Id much rather prefer an inverted T style like the rugged ridge but am not sure if ill end up with a dead spot again.

So what do you guys run how long have you had it and how does it perform and last. O and im looking to spend in the $3-400 range i think that covers a lot of whats out there.
 
ocean_jet said:
I like my Bullet Proof set-up. It uses heims. Need to drill (not ream) knuckles and pitman arm.

Did need to raise my axle side track bar mount point.

No dead spot.

$329 for basic system and can upgrade from there.

http://www.bulletproofsteering.com/
Click to expand...

x2 I use 3-4 nylon injected hiems with high misalignment spacers from ruffstuffspecialties, drill out the arms 5-8s and use whatever material for links in between. I scored some nice solid stock stress proof hex from work and tapped the ends. its alot like rustys setup. you can run the tie rod below or above the knuckle for clearance.
 
mindless said:
Well ive been running a rugged ridge set up for over a year and am completely sick of band aiding it over and over. Ive been looking though thread after thread and just cant really decide on what i want.

My buddy just got the Currie set up and he seems to like it but im not a huge fan of the beefed up stock style set up. Id much rather prefer an inverted T style like the rugged ridge but am not sure if ill end up with a dead spot again.

So what do you guys run how long have you had it and how does it perform and last. O and im looking to spend in the $3-400 range i think that covers a lot of whats out there.
Click to expand...

What's wrong with what you have, what kind of problems? Reliability issues or just a dead spot? How much lift?

Steering angles are the biggest thing to deal with, and an inverted Y is much better than an inverted T if the drag link angle is very much. There is no dead spot with inverted Y like there is with inverted T if the angles are very much. If you're moving your steering up over the knuckle to decresase the angles then it's possible an inverted T could work well, but inverted T's with the steering in the stock location just suck.......I don't care what anyone says.
 
Goatman said:
What's wrong with what you have, what kind of problems? Reliability issues or just a dead spot? How much lift?

Steering angles are the biggest thing to deal with, and an inverted Y is much better than an inverted T if the drag link angle is very much. There is no dead spot with inverted Y like there is with inverted T if the angles are very much. If you're moving your steering up over the knuckle to decresase the angles then it's possible an inverted T could work well, but inverted T's with the steering in the stock location just suck.......I don't care what anyone says.
Click to expand...

Well first with the RR putting new spacers in every other month or so is annoying and now the pass side TRE is warn out and since its not a off the shelf part i dont feel like dealing with it. O and im sitting at like 5.5-6" of lift right now, more than i want but thats where im at.

Im digging the Bullet Proof set up thats pretty much what i had in my head for what i wanted.
 
Last edited:
my friend Shea has the Rock krawler HD tie rod kit and it looks beefy as shit. i plan on upgrading to either the RK or the JCR 1ton from my kRusty's HD tie rod soon.. i like the RK cuz the heim joints.
 
Inverted-Y (1.5" OD x 1" ID DOM and use some quality heims).

Run it OTK.

My inverted-T with chevy TREs works well, but has a deadspot I haven't cared enough to chase yet.
 
mindless said:
Im digging the Bullet Proof set up thats pretty much what i had in my head for what i wanted.
Click to expand...


Oh, forgot to mention, I had to relocate the sway bar link mounts.

I run it UTK. If you go OTK, you may need to trim the coil bucket, if I remember correctly.
 
I like my RK setup. It's OTK, you don't have to move the track bar or the sway bar links, and it's crazy beef. I also like how the tie rod is bent forward, it creates plenty of room for heavy duty diff covers.
 
MrSimon said:
I like my RK setup. It's OTK, you don't have to move the track bar or the sway bar links, and it's crazy beef. I also like how the tie rod is bent forward, it creates plenty of room for heavy duty diff covers.
Click to expand...

How'd you run it OTK and keep your drive line geometry correct? I agree on the beef of RK for sure. Do you have any pics of your set-up?

The BulletProof web site is right out of the eighties, damn near got a migraine! lol
The hardware is nice although i see nothing special about the set-up. I don't like if you run OTK the added pressure put on the knuckle.
I have visions of bumpsteer due to drag link and trackbar lengths and position. -B
 
boomhauer said:
How'd you run it OTK and keep your drive line geometry correct? I agree on the beef of RK for sure. Do you have any pics of your set-up?

The BulletProof web site is right out of the eighties, damn near got a migraine! lol
The hardware is nice although i see nothing special about the set-up. I don't like if you run OTK the added pressure put on the knuckle.
I have visions of bumpsteer due to drag link and trackbar lengths and position. -B
Click to expand...

ImWhen I talked to Nate at ballistic, he told for UTK setup, you should relocate the track bar mount on the diff to prevent bump steer

one thing I noticed with bulletproof is they use 1.125" ID tubing, .220" wall thickness DOM. Ballistic uses 1.50" ID DOM, .250" wall thickness

just something to think about
 
TheSandman said:
ImWhen I talked to Nate at ballistic, he told for UTK setup, you should relocate the track bar mount on the diff to prevent bump steer

just something to think about
Click to expand...

Maybe im visioning this wrong, but wouldn't that make the draglink and trackbar lengths even greater?
My thinking is that the trackbar would become even shorter while the draglink length runs all the way to the knuckle.
I have both the RK system (sitting in the garage; never could get rid of bump steer in any config.) and running the Currie sytem which is great and no complaints. -B
 
boomhauer said:
The BulletProof web site is right out of the eighties, damn near got a migraine! lol


I have visions of bumpsteer due to drag link and trackbar lengths and position. -B
Click to expand...


LOL... the website is pretty funny.

And yes, you do have to rework the track bar location to get the geometry right. I raised mine using that JKS bracket... and shortened the bar a bit. I have no bumpsteer at all.
 
boomhauer said:
Maybe im visioning this wrong, but wouldn't that make the draglink and trackbar lengths even greater?
My thinking is that the trackbar would become even shorter while the draglink length runs all the way to the knuckle.
I have both the RK system (sitting in the garage; never could get rid of bump steer in any config.) and running the Currie sytem which is great and no complaints. -B
Click to expand...

I have no first hand experience yet, but this is what Nate at ballistic told me.

Hopefully next weekend, I'll have some first hand experience, lol
 
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