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hard to start when cold 88 xj

S

SINCITY192

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bronx, NY
88 xj auto trans 6cyl 4.0 L

seems like the colder it gets the harder it is to start why is that?

I seem to have to spray starting fluid to get the thing started is something going bad i need to replace?

i plan on relocating to PA in Nov so i need to get this drive-able for the move

today when i went to start it i put the key in and nothing no crank nothing this is really ridiculous im hoping i left a light on or something but ill check later

any ideas?
 
load test the battery and test to see how many volts the starter is getting at startup.

possible problems could be weak battery, bad/dirty/loose/corrsion on any connection and battery cables.
 
89xj said:
load test the battery and test to see how many volts the starter is getting at startup.

possible problems could be weak battery, bad/dirty/loose/corrsion on any connection and battery cables.
Click to expand...

x2, charge the battery overnight (minimum) or 24 hours (best) and then have it load tested.

While charging, clean both ends of your battery cables and test their resistance with an ohm meter.

Renew all of your grounds--dipstick tube, back of the head, etc,.

Other issues for hard start in a Renix:

Engine must "wind up" to 300 rpm before the signal from the CPS/CKP will trigger the ECU/PCM to fire. Poor cables, poor battery, poor starter will lead to problems.

Fuel drain back--try "priming" the fuel system by turning the key to ON, wait 3 seconds, then OFF and repeat two more times. If this helps with the starting then recommend you add a check valve to the fuel line between the filter and the tank. Seller jbass195 on eBay has 3/8" fuel check valves for $14 + $2.50 s/h.

Clearance between the CPS/CKP and the flywheel/flexplate. If the gap is too large the signal becomes weak. Try loosening the bolts and pressing the CPS/CKP down, then re-tighten the bolts.

Tune up--quality cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires.

Make sure the coolant temperature sensor (not the gauge/light sender) tests good, otherwise it won't tell the ECU/PCM to enrich the mixture.
 
joe_peters said:
x2, charge the battery overnight (minimum) or 24 hours (best) and then have it load tested.

While charging, clean both ends of your battery cables and test their resistance with an ohm meter.

Renew all of your grounds--dipstick tube, back of the head, etc,.

Other issues for hard start in a Renix:

Engine must "wind up" to 300 rpm before the signal from the CPS/CKP will trigger the ECU/PCM to fire. Poor cables, poor battery, poor starter will lead to problems.

Fuel drain back--try "priming" the fuel system by turning the key to ON, wait 3 seconds, then OFF and repeat two more times. If this helps with the starting then recommend you add a check valve to the fuel line between the filter and the tank. Seller jbass195 on eBay has 3/8" fuel check valves for $14 + $2.50 s/h.

Clearance between the CPS/CKP and the flywheel/flexplate. If the gap is too large the signal becomes weak. Try loosening the bolts and pressing the CPS/CKP down, then re-tighten the bolts.

Tune up--quality cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires.

Make sure the coolant temperature sensor (not the gauge/light sender) tests good, otherwise it won't tell the ECU/PCM to enrich the mixture.
Click to expand...

when you say renew my grounds what exactly do you mean?
and since i dont have a battery charger how about I jump the thing and then leave it on for a while will that do?
and whats a fuel check valve for what will it do how will it help?
just curious ill be looking into this
thanks
 
Take the wires/cables off, use sandpaper/dremel tool/stiff wire brush and clean the connectors and the metal surface they will be contacting. Get a corrosion inhibitor, any paint store/hardware, and treat the surfaces then reconnect the wires/cables and make sure they are TIGHT.

No. You need a fully charged battery for a load test, and as a poor battery is quite possibly the root of your problem a load test needs to be performed. You can take the battery to a garage/station/battery shop and have them SLOW charge it and then perform a load test. Wal-Mart and any parts store will have a small charger that will do the job, usually 2-6 amp charger will be fine, and they are reasonably priced.

A fuel check valve is a one-way valve. Pressure from the fuel pump pushes fuel against the valve's spring and the valve opens and allows the flow of fuel to the injectors. When the pump isn't pushing the spring closes the valve, maintaining fuel in lines to the injectors instead of it being able to drain backwards. Having fuel at the injectors when you start cranking, either due to "priming" or the check valve, will allow the engine to start sooner.
 
thanks very helpful and just for a little back up info i tested the battery npw and got a reading of 1.8 volts so its really discharged right !
i not sure what could have caused this my battery was brought about a yr ago 14 or 15 months for sure can a battery go bad that fast!
i hope not! any way my charger is half ass
not sure if it charges or not cause i have to use a universal charger just to charge the charger!
 
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