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Exhaust manifold bolts
- Thread starter Bdiddy11
- Start date
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
Did you torque them in the correct sequence ? Are the manifolds fully engaged on the locating studs in the head ?
Get instructions here - http://www.ineedparts.com/pdf/20009_install.pdf
Get instructions here - http://www.ineedparts.com/pdf/20009_install.pdf
Y'know, i'm not sure. My father in-law and wife put it back in while I was at work.
If it was done in the wrong sequence, can I got back and loosen them, then torque them in the right sequence and hopefully take care of the issue?
If not I'll take it to the muffler shop later today.
Thanks
If it was done in the wrong sequence, can I got back and loosen them, then torque them in the right sequence and hopefully take care of the issue?
If not I'll take it to the muffler shop later today.
Thanks
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I think you should be able to, unless they really went stir crazy and warped it permanently. It can't really make it worse, so I'd give it a try.
Pretty sure they didn't go stir crazy... the Jeep really hasn't ran ever since the swap. It's had other issues and it's only been driven for a couple blocks total.
We're just trying to take care of all the little issues before we start driving it more often now.
How loose will I need to loosen the bolts to retorque them all? And what is the sequence? the link posted doesn't really say much about the higher numbers past 7.
Thanks
We're just trying to take care of all the little issues before we start driving it more often now.
How loose will I need to loosen the bolts to retorque them all? And what is the sequence? the link posted doesn't really say much about the higher numbers past 7.
Thanks
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
I'd just loosen them enough to where they're "not torqued" anymore - if they're cold, you can loosen them in pretty much any order. Go to about the point where you can spin the washer under the screw head with a finger, and you'll be fine.
Torque spec is 19-21 pound-feet, sequence is: Start at the top centre. Torque. Work outwards in a clockwise spiral.
NB: Having a "flex socket" (short socket with inbuilt universal joint) will really make the two lower rear screws so much easier to deal with, and does not alter the torque setting of the torque wrench.
Oh - and I believe there are actually thirteen fasteners in total, with either ten screws and three studs (both extreme ends and top centre) or eleven screws and two studs (extreme ends only.) I've seen it go either way, but the studs in the two extreme end positions will be sufficient.
Torque spec is 19-21 pound-feet, sequence is: Start at the top centre. Torque. Work outwards in a clockwise spiral.
NB: Having a "flex socket" (short socket with inbuilt universal joint) will really make the two lower rear screws so much easier to deal with, and does not alter the torque setting of the torque wrench.
Oh - and I believe there are actually thirteen fasteners in total, with either ten screws and three studs (both extreme ends and top centre) or eleven screws and two studs (extreme ends only.) I've seen it go either way, but the studs in the two extreme end positions will be sufficient.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
To add to that I'd shake the manifold around just a little to make sure it doesn't have any residual tension anywhere - no need to go all out and scrape up the gasket, but make sure it shifts a little.
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
There are Eleven fasteners. There are Eleven numbered triangles in the instructions at the link provided, tighten the fasteners in numerical sequence 1-11.
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Ok. Took it into the muffler shop... they said it could be that the manifold gasket in the rear got jammed up a little upon installation and is causing the bad leak. Another guy working there said it could be a blown head gasket. However, there was no coolant in the oil from what I could tell.
We just did an oil change last night. It looked old... but no sign of coolant. I'm trying to find someone local that has the tools to run the necessary tools to determine if we just need a new manifold gasket or if it is indeed a head gasket.
We just did an oil change last night. It looked old... but no sign of coolant. I'm trying to find someone local that has the tools to run the necessary tools to determine if we just need a new manifold gasket or if it is indeed a head gasket.
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
Attempt to loosen and re-torque. If that doesn't help, install a new exhaust/intake manifold gasket.
To determine if you need a new exhaust/intake manifold gasket you make a visual inspection, since the manifolds are off, you just replace it, gaskets are cheap enough.
If you didn't have a bad head gasket before. you probably don't have one now.
We did loosen and retorque in the sequence mentioned. Start at top middle and work clockwise.
When we got the gasket, that came with the new exhaust manifold, it was slightly curved/bent on one side from being crammed in a box. Not sure if that could have been the issue.
We're hoping it's not a head gasket...Once this leak is fixed,and I can figure out why it doesn't want to start at times, it'll be good to daily drive finally =/
When we got the gasket, that came with the new exhaust manifold, it was slightly curved/bent on one side from being crammed in a box. Not sure if that could have been the issue.
We're hoping it's not a head gasket...Once this leak is fixed,and I can figure out why it doesn't want to start at times, it'll be good to daily drive finally =/
