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Writeup: 4.0 Coolant Filter Install addendum

How much does this actually filter if it only runs through the heater core line?

And has anyone considered one of these filters?
http://www.tefba.com/index.html
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/collections/skinned-knuckles/cooling-system-filtration/index.shtml

I've been trying to order one for some time, but can never find them or get good contact. Maybe they need a East Coast vendor.....

Im pretty sure older XJs have a valve on the heater core lines that stop the fluid flow when the HVAC is not on a heat setting, but newer ones don't have that. When you first start them probably at least 90% of the coolant flows through the heater core, and as the thermostat opens the more gets divided between it and the radiator.
 
Wonder why factories don't do this from the start? What a cool idea!

OE manufactures want to save money, and the benefits are minimal for most car buyers since they won’t keep a vehicle long enough to matter. Many big rig manufacturers have coolant filters on their over the road units. I’ve also seen coolant filters standard on a lot of big heavy equipment.
 
Ok, so I've got all the bits for doing the conversion. I'm doing this on a 1990 Renix Closed System XJ. The question I have, did you guys put the coolant filter on the output from the pump -> coolant bottle/Heater Core input?
 
My anal personality wanted to filter before the coolant entered into the heater core. It really doesn’t matter if your filter is on the inlet or outlet side of the heater core.
 
Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I have two questions about this mod:

1) Should I worry about parts of the filter disintegrating and blocking the cooling system? I'm reminded about similar setups on smaller engines causing blockage, then overheating and subsequent engine failure.

2) Has anyone tested the flow rate of the system, post install? Has anyone had an increase in coolant temperature?

Sorry if they sound like dumb questions...I just don't want an overheating Jeep.
 
Sorry to dig an old thread up, but I have two questions about this mod:

1) Should I worry about parts of the filter disintegrating and blocking the cooling system? I'm reminded about similar setups on smaller engines causing blockage, then overheating and subsequent engine failure.

2) Has anyone tested the flow rate of the system, post install? Has anyone had an increase in coolant temperature?

Sorry if they sound like dumb questions...I just don't want an overheating Jeep.

There is nothing to worry about. Follow the recommendations by the filter manufacturer and you will be fine. The filter is a bypass filter, so you can't block the system.
 
I was considering doing this but then I found out about Evans waterless coolant. I think if I flush my system out thoroughly then use this stuff I won't have to worry about scale etc. Any thoughts?
 
Someone inquired why some vehicles use the coolant filters. Heavy duty diesels, particularly those with cylinder sleeves, require a coolant additive, or conditioner, to prevent cavitation corrosion of the sleeves. The smooth machined sleeves vibrate hypersonically due to the diesel ignition "shock" . This causes the sleeves to form tiny bubbles and then collapse the bubbles. This microscopic activity erodes the metal until it bores a hole all the way through the liner. The engine manufacturers install the filter as a way to help ensure that the conditioner level is maintained. New filters come charged with the conditioner chemical in them. It is sort of a surface wetter compound that makes the coolant stick to the surface of the metal. The filter aspect is more of an added benefit/feature. When connected in a heater circuit, it can cause low heat if the filter gets clogged or slimy. Great write up!
 
I was considering doing this but then I found out about Evans waterless coolant. I think if I flush my system out thoroughly then use this stuff I won't have to worry about scale etc. Any thoughts?

No matter what kind of coolant that you use, a filter will still help keep the system cleaner. For those who already have a coolant filter but want to switch over to Evans, the manufacturer does require a new filter to be installed prior to adding the Evans. For obvious reasons, you want to get as much water out as possible before changing over.
 
I've been wanting to do this for a while... but not sure I have the room needed to plumb in this filter in the locations your guys used (mine is an '01 XJ as well...)

Could be I just need to try it and see.

One thing I was considering... looking through many reports online about this. Would you guys consider using a different Ball Valve similar to this one?

http://www.dieselsite.com/coolantfilterballvalves.aspx

Just seems like it would take up a LOT less space?? Also, any concerns about these ball valves leaking?

Thanks all!
 
I've been wanting to do this for a while... but not sure I have the room needed to plumb in this filter in the locations your guys used (mine is an '01 XJ as well...)

Could be I just need to try it and see.

One thing I was considering... looking through many reports online about this. Would you guys consider using a different Ball Valve similar to this one?

http://www.dieselsite.com/coolantfilterballvalves.aspx

Just seems like it would take up a LOT less space?? Also, any concerns about these ball valves leaking?

Thanks all!

All you need to do is copy my install. I have the same radiator as you and the same 2000/2001 XJ features. I have the dieselsite coolant filter kit installed on my Dodge Cummins, and I would use those fittings to save space.
 
I installed mine about 1200 miles ago. In the same area, but I mounted mine vertically.

Today I cut it open. Probably a couple of teaspoons of small rust type particles.
In the bottom of the can. The pleats were coated with a mud like paste.

This was just a fun type mod. Necessary? Not really, but it will be interesting to see if my "life time" water pump lasts more than the two years my last one did.

The NAPA 4070 filter was a quality product.
 
I installed mine about 1200 miles ago. In the same area, but I mounted mine vertically.

Today I cut it open. Probably a couple of teaspoons of small rust type particles.
In the bottom of the can. The pleats were coated with a mud like paste.

This was just a fun type mod. Necessary? Not really, but it will be interesting to see if my "life time" water pump lasts more than the two years my last one did.

The NAPA 4070 filter was a quality product.

It may not be necessary, but the filtering will help prolong the life of your components and maintain a proper functioning system. All that "mud like" substance otherwise ends up clogging up your heater core, radiator, and/or restricts cooling channels in the engine. That's a lot of filtered garbage considering it was only a 1,200 mile interval and it's a by-pass filter. Wix is rated at 27 micron, but the efficiency is unknown. I would encourage you to upgrade to the Donaldson ECF4085 next time which is rated at 14um absolute. This is a difficult question to answer, but do you think your filter would have been completely clogged within 10,000 miles?
 
Hopefully most of what was left from my last flush was caught by this filter. The only way I know to check to see if it is plugged, would be to check the temperature of the exit water or just feel the can. Hot is good:) I'm going to change these out yearly unless I feel a drop in temp on can.

Thanks for the tip on the Donaldson filter, and thanks for you original post describing this mod!
 
This thread is 2.5 years old, and the last time AZ posted was a year ago. I PM would have been more likely to get a response, I doubt this thread would be seen.

I've seen a set up with the canister mounted under the front, just below where the trans cooler would be stock. If I would do this mod I would fab up a mount and put the filter on the fender/shock tower area.
 
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