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Wiring ARB locker with DIY SPod

N

nhurto

NAXJA Forum User
Location
VA
I've hit a stumbling point and I'm looking for some help. I've build a DIY SPod for my Jeep XJ (1999 Cherokee Sport). I'm trying to wire the lockers to a couple of Carling Contura V switch bodies. I have the compressor wired to the ARB supplied loom and am planning to move the switches to the new pod from the loom. The diagram of the pod is:



The wiring diagram from ARB indicates that the 12v+ in are YELLOW and DARK GREEN wires for solenoid 1 (rear) and solenoid 2 (front). In my diagram, these are shown coming from pin 3 on the switch.




I'm having no luck getting the locker to engage in this configuration. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong here and how it should be wired. If at all possible, I'd like to avoid running the whole ARB loom to the roof where the pod is installed above the rear view mirror.





Any help would be appreciated.
 
You have them wired wrong. Check out the wiring diagram on OTRATTW.com

7 and 8 are both grounds. You can see in the ARB diagram that they ground out both 7 and 8.

6 is where you should be connecting your illumination 12V source.

Try that and report back.
 
Makes me happy that I eliminated the solenoids and electrical activation switches and instead, use manual pneumatic switches to control my ARB's.
 
XJEEPER said:
Makes me happy that I eliminated the solenoids and electrical activation switches and instead, use manual pneumatic switches to control my ARB's.
Click to expand...

^This.

Few years ago I pretty much copied XJEEPER's install.

Been working perfectly in my rig. Haven't had an issue yet.
 
I had zero problems with the switches and solenoids in my ARB compressor kit. Loved that they were already pre-wired and interlocked.

My 2 cents though... It's going to be annoying reaching up above the mirror all the time to flip the switches. I just had a front locker, but only turned it on while running hard trails. Flipped it off anywhere I didn't need it.

I bought the Daystar vent kit that put 2 contura switches in the vent right above the radio. Very easy reach for the locker switches. Maybe put the compressor switch up in the SPOD since you never really fool with that except at the beginning and end of the day, and the two locker switches down low.
 
Reaching to the vent vs reaching overhead isn't that much different. I have mine overhead as well with no issues. And pretty much impossible to bump a switch on as well.

Are the electric solenoids know for going bad? I have a zip locker and they use an off the shelf solinoids from MAC Valves.
 
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I hated that the front would only come on after the rear was on, so I did the power wire mod. Otherwise they're hanging out in a prime4x4 plate behind the shifter. Reaching up to the cupholder was a pain in the ass.
 
Not that anyone asked, but because I'm a good sharer.......... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=6

3-Way Pneumatic switch for ARB activation

100_1913.jpg


Console mounted ARB switches

100_2043.jpg
 
I finally started wiring up my ARB compressor and lockers today as well and have the switches wired but not buttoned up in the dash yet so they are still hanging and accessible. Is it a real hassle to need the rear locked before the front? Please elaborate. I just figured ARB knows what they're doing.. but then I've only used lockers on my Grizzly. So you're just taking the +12 from the front locker switch and making it 'hot' instead of relying on the rear switch to supply 12v?

Was going to switch the lockers from the Daystar vent switches also and use an existing switch in the ashtray panel for the compressor but realized I don't use or need any of the 3 existing switches in the dash (wiper/fog lights/rear window defrost - '99), and with a 33" tire on a rear bumper carrier I can't see squat back there anyway, so I did slight mods to the existing switch panel and mounted all 3 ARB switches in there. Also, I didn't have to cut into the ARB harness to wire it up. Cigar lighter and Power outlet will still function. Maybe reaching low for the switches will be a hassle but I don't expect to be locking up much (ARB lockers came with the killer deal I got on the beefed up 30/8.25 so might as well fire them up) - and it can't be that much of a pain to reach a bit.

My lights are in an 'ashtray' switch mount (Offroad LED, Backup, Rock lights, and one switch now unused). And now I have the Daystar vent switch unit.. hmm.. there must be something else I can use it for.. sheesh.

To the OP: Looks like you have all the bells and whistles dialed in (lights galore). Good luck with it all. Let us see the finished product.
 
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Over the years people have found that having the rear locked causes the vehicle to turn poorly. Locking only the front maintains almost the same traction capability, but increases the ease of turning dramatically. There are plenty of people running trails with just the front locked, especially in high traction areas like what they have out west.

Wiring the switches independent of each other is basically just swapping one wire to provide constant power to the front switch rather than pull power for that switch from the rear switch. This provides you with the option to run whatever configuration you feel works best for the situation.
 
Huh, I used the ARB harness but never even installed the rear switch, and the front switch worked fine. Maybe I plugged the front switch into the plugs for the rear switch, can't remember.
 
RedHeep said:
Over the years people have found that having the rear locked causes the vehicle to turn poorly. Locking only the front maintains almost the same traction capability, but increases the ease of turning dramatically. There are plenty of people running trails with just the front locked, especially in high traction areas like what they have out west.

Wiring the switches independent of each other is basically just swapping one wire to provide constant power to the front switch rather than pull power for that switch from the rear switch. This provides you with the option to run whatever configuration you feel works best for the situation.
Click to expand...


Zip locker in the front and True trac in the rear works very well for me. Plus, LS in the rear in snow makes for sweet Jeep dorifto action! :D
 
whitexj98 said:
Are the electric solenoids know for going bad? I have a zip locker and they use an off the shelf solinoids from MAC Valves.
Click to expand...

I had an ARB solenoid with a slow leak, but only after 10 years without an issue. I used MAC valves as a replacement - they're cheaper and easily available.
 
RedHeep said:
Over the years people have found that having the rear locked causes the vehicle to turn poorly.
Click to expand...

Ah yes.. dragging the rear around turns instead of rolling.. got it. I'll be changing that wiring today. Perfect timing, thanks.
 
OP I don't have any input on arbs branded setup all I run is the lockers everything else is custom but I still want to share lol.

Would drive me nuts to have my switches up there, I switch mine off and on all the time though. My switches are where the ashtray used to be and since I drive with my hand on the shifter a lot I can just open my hand and flick the switch without reaching at all. I have switched mine off a couple times on accident though and you wont have that problem.

Sometimes I use the front sometimes I use the rear and sometimes I use neither or both. It seems dumb ARB has their switch set up that way though it sounds easy to fix.

Here's my pneumatic switches for anyone interested
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245633820&postcount=53

Check out the rest of my build thread if your interested, I used 1/4" od air brake line and P.t.c. fittings that should pop off if a line ever got snagged without damaging the line or fitting (still carry repair parts). The tanks drain is a Schroeder valve so If I have a compressor failure the tank can be filled with any tire chuck. The tank also is mounted with pins and uses ptc fittings so it can be removed and used as a portable air tank if I want.

The reoccurring gripes I saw with arbs during research was solenoid/electrical and air line failure so that is why I went the way I did. the only electrical my setup has is the compressor and really if I fill the tank through the Schroeder valve and don't try to fill any tires I could run all day without running the compressor. Supposedly these pneumatic switches rarely fail and generally last pretty much a lifetime.
As far as air lines go I took time to route mine carefully and zip tied in place. they have never gotten caught on anything and in the few spots they looked like they might rub over time sleeve them with a slightly larger piece of hose.
 
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sunburned said:
You have them wired wrong. Check out the wiring diagram on OTRATTW.com

7 and 8 are both grounds. You can see in the ARB diagram that they ground out both 7 and 8.

6 is where you should be connecting your illumination 12V source.

Try that and report back.
Click to expand...

I'm not running the ARB switch, I'm using a Carling V1D1GHCB which has a common ground (pin 7) and uses pin 8 for illumination: http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/G66.pdf

The ARB switch is a V1DA which uses pins 7 and 8 for independent grounds: http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=975
 
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