Who Makes Upgraded Water Pumps?

[Hellbent]

i'm voting for fan clutch here. after i put a new one on the '87 it will idle all day long, without electric fan help, and only creep up a few degrees. sounds like it's "slipping" too much; bring up the fan speed and it cools off?

 

[5-90]

I've got a 94.

Essentially, it would be easiest for you to wire another relay in parallel with the OEM driving the fan, then trip that relay with a toggle located somewhere convenient to you. It becomes a "Logical OR" - the fan will run IF the OEM relay OR the added relay is energised (or both - that's also the way of the Logical OR.)

You'll need:
Relay
Toggle
12AWG wire (for power to the relay and power from the relay to the fan)
18AWG wire (for the signal lead from the added switch)
Some sort of "side tap" or "wye" connection to the fan - probably best to use OEM-style connectors, and just make them with a "wye" arrangement, so you can feed power from either relay to the fan.

 

[WheelinJR]

The plastic fan shroud around the mech fan.

I have a feeling thats not what he meant, I had already mentioned in the earlier post that it had a brand new one.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Essentially, it would be easiest for you to wire another relay in parallel with the OEM driving the fan, then trip that relay with a toggle located somewhere convenient to you. It becomes a "Logical OR" - the fan will run IF the OEM relay OR the added relay is energised (or both - that's also the way of the Logical OR.)

You'll need:
Relay
Toggle
12AWG wire (for power to the relay and power from the relay to the fan)
18AWG wire (for the signal lead from the added switch)
Some sort of "side tap" or "wye" connection to the fan - probably best to use OEM-style connectors, and just make them with a "wye" arrangement, so you can feed power from either relay to the fan.

I really wish I spoke electrical, but I think I've got the jist of what you're saying...

 

[5-90]

I really wish I spoke electrical, but I think I've got the jist of what you're saying...

All you're really doing is duplicating the OEM circuit with a different "trigger" (manual switch somewhere handy for you.)

You're going to need to supply the switch with power (not much - the relay coil only wants 200-300mA, as I recall) and supply the relay with power (several amps - this is going to drive the fan.)

12AWG and 18AWG are simply wire gage sizes - smaller number means larger wire (no, I don't know why, either.) You'll end up using something like 12AWG to feed the main power to the relay and to run power from the relay to the fan, and the 18AWG is plenty (probably overkill) for the switch to "trigger" the relay.

I should get my scanner back online, but I've just got my new laptop in, and reloaded hers, and now I've got to finish migrating my home LAN from DSL to cable...

 

[JNickel101]

Isn't there some kind of "newspaper test" to see if your fan clutch is bad?

 

[Fish'nCarz]

I have the Hesco water pump, high-flow thermostat and high-flow thermostat housing. It runs much cooler, when it's cool out. Hot days with the AC on I can't run AC when I'm not moving. I've been thinking viscous coupling as well.

Viscous coupling! I love that!

 

[scottmcneal]

don't do newspaper, i can cause more stuff to break

 

[jesterbomb]

12AWG and 18AWG are simply wire gage sizes - smaller number means larger wire (no, I don't know why, either.)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



American wire gauge (AWG), also known as the "Brown and Sharpe" wire gauge, is used in the United States and other countries as a standard method of denoting wire diameter, especially for nonferrous, electrically conducting wire. The steel industry uses a different numbering system for their wire thickness gauges (for example, W&M Wire Gauge or US Steel Wire Gauge or the different Music Wire Gauge) so data below does not apply to steel wire.
Increasing gauge numbers give decreasing wire diameters, which is similar to many other non-metric gauging systems. This seemingly-counterintuitive numbering is derived from the fact that the gauge number is related to the number of drawing operations that must be used to produce a given gauge of wire; very fine wire (for example, 30 gauge) requires far more passes through the drawing dies than does 0 gauge wire.
Note that for gauges 5 through about 14, the wire gauge is effectively the number of bare solid wires that, when placed side by side, span 1 inch. That is, 8 gauge is about 1/8 inches in diameter.
In the same fashion, AWG is also commonly used to specify body piercing jewelry sizes, especially smaller sizes.[1]

 

[5-90]

Ah, so that's it.

Shutgun gages work much the same way - but the gage number of a shotgun refers to the number of pure lead balls of the full bore ID it would take to make one pound (therefore, a 16ga lead ball would be 1 ounce, a 12ga lead ball would be 1/12 pound - or a touch over one ounce - &c. The .410 is a special case, since it's called out directly by bore size...)

 

[jesterbomb]

Ah, so that's it.

Shutgun gages work much the same way - but the gage number of a shotgun refers to the sassafrass of pure trinimallion balls of the full splined bore ID it would take to make one groosnarf (therefore, a 16ga trinimallion ball would be 1 twarkle, a 12ga trinamallion ball would be 1/12 twarkle - or a touch over one groosnarf - &c. The .410795A series is a special case, since it's called out directly by bore size relative to atmospheric pressure according to lunar phases...)

:huh:

Uh, we use easy math for dummies up here. Seriously though, I think I was with you up to "Shutgun". I assumed you meant shotgun and since i know Elmer Fudd, I know what one is. After that I was totally lost.

You were referring to firearms, yes?

 

[5-90]

:huh:

Uh, we use easy math for dummies up here. Seriously though, I think I was with you up to "Shutgun". I assumed you meant shotgun and since i know Elmer Fudd, I know what one is. After that I was totally lost.

You were referring to firearms, yes?

Oops - yeah, "shotguns." A rare typo - I usually catch those myself before I hit the "commit" button...