- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Yeah... that was me. I'm always of the opinion that you should first decide what you want your truck to do, rather than how high you want your truck to be.
A kit makes it easy for a newcomer to lift their vehicle, but kits in general aren't a usually good bargain. For instance, the Rubicon Express swaybar disconnects suck. JKS makes the best disconnect available. Currie control arms offer better flex than the RE arms. The National leaves flex better and give a smoother ride than the RE leaves.
Many of us have gotten the need to challenge ourselves and we tend to go change our suspensions for even taller lifts and bigger tires. In the long run, it's WAY WAY cheaper to build your suspension right the first time so that it's easier to go the places you want to travel.
That being said, a 3 inch lift, 30" tires and limited slip in the rear will allow you to take your rig on most trails in California. The caveat is that you might need to skip the optional harder obstacles and take a few go-arounds than you'd want. With some rock stacking and an occasional strap from your friends, you can probably do 90% of all trails in California. However, many of us find that having the ability to run the other 10% is what costs us the most money. For those that have really good wrenching skills, bolting on parts is rather easy. It's the occasional fabrication and welding skills that allow some to modify their rigs without spending every last penny.
Having learned a lot in the past eight years, I would do things a bit differently than I did. I wouldn't start with a small lift and then spend lots in relifting it. Build your suspension right the first time. It makes it easy to change tires and gears later on. Before you start lifting, answer this question. What do you want to do with your rig? Rock crawling? High speed desert racing? A capable rig to get you to hunting and fishing places? That's the first thing to know... what you want your rig to do. You can then design the lift for what you want to do.
If I did it all over from the start, I'd buy a hybrid kit or just individual components in order to get the best that each company offers. A 4.5" lift and 33" tires make a perfectly versatile rig. Many newbies who started with a budget boost or a 3" lift eventually got bitten by inchitis and ended up relifting their rigs. 33" tires will allow you to run about 95% of all trails in California and still let your wife or girlfriend climb into your Jeep.
I would get:
For the rear leaf packs, a custom designed 10-leaf spring from National. It's a great product and gives as much lift as you specify. Get shackles from Rusty's or JKS. Front coils from Rubicon Express. Cheaper alternative for the leaves but still really good, Rubicon Express.
In general, it's best to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. If I were building an XJ from scratch, the first thing I would do is trim the fenders and reinstall the flares if you want. (Many don't) Trimming your fender first seems illogical, but since so many of us end up doing it in the end, why not start with that? Then you'll have a better idea of what size tire will fit before you spend major coinage on wheels and tires.
Of course you'll also need swaybar disconnects. While many manufacturers include them in their kits, most of us generally agree the best are made by JKS. BTW, while you've got them on the phone, you might as well order their Super Nerf rock rails. Unless you really feel like gambling, your rocker panel is going to need protection and the Super Nerfs are the best. But there are a couple of local fab guys that make perfectly capable sliders. And it you really want to bombproof your XJ for the long term, consider welding on frame stiffeners first and stiffen up the front frame members, especially where the steering box mounts to.
And if you're going with of a lift of anything over 3", you *are* going to need a Slip Yoke Eliminator and new rear drive shaft. Older XJs could often be lifted without incurring any driveline vibrations. Newer XJs, 1997+ most always exhibit vibrations on mild lifts and it's pretty much guaranteed to happen on 4.5" and higher. Which kit you should get depends on which transfer case you have. If you have a NP231, get a heavy duty kit from Advanced Adapters or JB Conversions. If you have a NP242, get a Hack 'N Tap kit from Rubicon Express because nobody makes a real heavy duty tailshaft for the 242.
You'll also need a good heavy duty trackbar and drop bracket. Also, you may want to consider adding drop brackets for the lower control arms in you've decided to go with a short arm suspension. Those will restore the streetability of a vehicle that's lifted 4.5". Rubicon Express. And you will need new, longer shocks. Get Bilsteins.
Getting a kit is an easy way of getting most of the components you'll need. Mixing and matching ensures you'll get the best available and only have to buy lift parts once.
If you want to put 33" or taller tires on you rig, then you will need to re-gear both axles. And if you're going to open up your axles to change gears, you might as well install lockers front and rear. Open axles are what keep most rigs from successfully navigating a trail. And you will need 8" wide wheels with the correct backspacing to fit those tires.
You see where I'm going with all of this? Once you start, it's a lot of money to finish. I don't want to scare you, but I do want you to be well informed on what all is needed just to put 33" tires on a Cherokee. The front coils and rear leaves are the easy part. It's everything else that you will need that most newbies don't think of or bother to factor in to their budget. Consider buying used parts to keep the costs down. Many people get their own case of inchitis and are selling their old lift parts. Get used tires and wheels until you get used to your rig or can afford to re-gear. Remember that unless you re-gear, bigger tires will cause your rig to drive like a dog.
Then there's the question of armor. How much and where? No matter what you choose, at the very minimum, you need rock rail protection and tow points front and rear. A gas tank skid is almost mandatory and skid plates for the lower control arms are a very good idea. JKS makes a killer strong transfer case skid plate/crossmember, and you really should protect the transfer case if you're going into the rocks.
You can buy a lot of stuff used, from people parting out their jeeps or people with their own cases of inchitis. I've seen people who have found full Rubicon Express lift kits at a pick a part junk yard. You don't have to buy everything brand new.
Don't focus on only the lift. Factor everything into your budget before you turn a wrench. Know what you're getting yourself into.
?? Deja Vu...:dunno:
