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What Parts To Cryo??

Yup, two trips out with the D30 and see ya later gearset.

With stock axleshafts. Was a good pattern on the gearset and everything, stock open carrier (with a lockright in it) let go and had .020" runout where the gearset broke.

If you plan on using a stock carrier, cryo it.
 
Quick Update:

-So i just talked to Bobby at Lonfield & he cryo'd everything i sent him, including a brand new set of spicer 760x ujoints, 4 brand new bearings & races, my d30 4.88 ring & pinion, & the front yoke all for $50 buckerooz!!!

-Im gonna get a new set of spicer ball joints & unit hubs sometime soon & have them cryo those as well!! I'll post up pics when my parts arrive if i see any change in the metal like the "bluing" found in chromoly shafts & treated steel products.
 
I broke two sets of D30 R&P on 35s. The next set I sent to Bobby to work his magic on, and were set up tight... no more broken R&P....broke more 4340 stubs instead. Sold the 30 to someone who won't wheel as hard.

I never cryoed more than the gears but for the price Bobby charges why not? Can't hurt!

My.02
 
i can definatly see where the benefit of cryo treated parts on wearable surfaces are, like bearings and races, brake rotors, ect. but those dont have the shock loads that lets say axles, and gears have. wouldnt the higher tensile strength from the cryo process also make the metals more brittle? i understand this cryo treatment process is the new big thing running through the offroad industry, but from what i understand about it, there is some places it just shouldnt be done. the term stronger is so missleading. i would be very carefull of what you are planning to try and strengthen with this process. you may actually be making the part more likely to break instead of bend, twist, flex, ect.

I imagine it's kinda like the theory behind hardened chrome sockets vs. softer metal impact sockets.
 
I broke two sets of D30 R&P on 35s. The next set I sent to Bobby to work his magic on, and were set up tight... no more broken R&P....broke more 4340 stubs instead. Sold the 30 to someone who won't wheel as hard.

I never cryoed more than the gears but for the price Bobby charges why not? Can't hurt!

My.02


-Thats pretty much my whole plan...
1) Full case selectable locker to minimize ring deflection & take away lunchbox lockers added stress..
2) Cryo'd R&P, bearings etc, to minimize wear & tear which lessens the chance of breakadge..
3) Chromoly 30spl inner shafts, (same as a 44), with chromo 27spl outters puttin the weak link at the outters, carry spare stub shafts, & use the axles warranty!!!

-Remember, (for me that is), im not goin bigger then 35"s & 4.88's, SO ill give this setup a shot, have the run what u brung attitude, & we'll see!! Hey its part of the never ending build proccess that we all love to do, so i only see alot of fun coming MY way testing a fully polished 30!!!!!!
party1: :yelclap: :exclamati
 
Big time bump.....
Just sheared some 4.56 teeth this weekend with 35's, chromos, and a lunchbox. I was thinking about sending some 4.88s, my stock carrier, and the lunchbox halves in for cryo treating. Hows that sound?
 
Big time bump.....
Just sheared some 4.56 teeth this weekend with 35's, chromos, and a lunchbox. I was thinking about sending some 4.88s, my stock carrier, and the lunchbox halves in for cryo treating. Hows that sound?

You sheered the teeth because of the wet noodle stock carrier that allowed the ring to flex & given the chromos & hardened locker, ur ring & pinion are now the weak link. I would 100% cryo the r&p, carrier, bearings, & a set of spicers if thats the ujoint ur running, but NOT the locker cause most of em, aussie, spartan or lock rite, are all hardened already. Bobby at longfield only charged me $50 bucks for the r&p, bearings, & spicer ujoints so its 100% worth it!!!

Im assuming were talkin bout a d30 here so i hope its trussed & has a good diff cover on it & not one of those skid shields. A full case locker will solve the wet noodle stock carrier problem if u got the coin.
Hope that helps!
 
Ruffstuff cover but no truss yet.

So no lunchbox hardening, what about the cross shaft? I was looking at the zytanium cross shaft. Anyone ever use one?
 
Yea I have feeling axle shafts wouldnt be a good thing, considering the short side breaks first cause it can't twist as much as the long one. Your planning on heating/freezing the unit bearings again?
 
that's a rather odd conclusion to come to, I've always broken long side shafts.
 
Hmm I didn't know they would cryo your parts, I may do this was well, but I would probably save up and do the R&P and axles and rotors all in one job to save on shipping stuff seperate, and on the hopes the more you do at oce, the more you'll save with them.
 
I'm assuming like he said the wear factor and are more resistant to warping under high heat and such. My opinion only race car application.

High end racing brakes are usually a 2 piece design & made out of ceramic. They also work better the hotter they get. Id have to assume ur not racing ur XJ here.
 
I'm a metallurgist that's been heat treating for 30+ years now.

A couple things to keep in mind.

1) Cryo does not make steel denser. Steel is crystalline, not molecular.
2) Benefits are there. But, it's not a one size fits all.

For neutral hardened product like axles shafts, bolts, etc you won't pick up any strength. Some people believe there's a bit more toughness... we cryo stuff like this for Big Foot all the time.

For case hardened parts like gears, u-joints and bearings... you can pick up some hardness / wear resistance. There is a warning.. they can also distort depending on the original heat treat condition... If you're serious about it, I'd never cryo a ring gear for a highway driver unless it was bolted to a carrier. The risk is low, but definitely there.

Cast irons like rotors, it's well documented that you'll get wear life improvement.

Again.. some people swear by it. other than cast irons, there's probable more opinions than facts... it's one of those YMMV situations.
 
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