Welding to solid stock?

[ktm racer 419]

Just as the title says, how would one weld 1/4" tabs to solid stock 1.5" diameter?

I know can do it, but i don't know If i will be able to make it stong enough.

hobart 140 amp, co2/argon 75/25. .030 solid core wire.

-sam

 

[XJ_ranger]

turn the heat way up.... :banghead:

 

[barillms]

Just weld it man.

 

[ktm racer 419]

those tabs will be holding my upper control arm in place, i would just hate to have those welds crack then destroy the rest of my suspension.

just looking for some insight so i dont do this wrong/ with a machine that isnt powerful enough.

 

[ponyracer1]

Bevel the edges of the quarter to nearly a point. Then make 2-3 passes. I'd find a way to triangulate it also and weld the inside as well. Or pay someone with a larger machine to do it. You DON'T want those to come of at 65 mph.

Prob is that the solid is going to steal the heat and your not going to get enough penatration on the solid bar so the weld itself will shear off.

 

[tealcherokee]

Bevel the edges of the quarter to nearly a point. Then make 2-3 passes. I'd find a way to triangulate it also and weld the inside as well. Or pay someone with a larger machine to do it. You DON'T want those to come of at 65 mph.

Prob is that the solid is going to steal the heat and your not going to get enough penatration on the solid bar so the weld itself will shear off.

the 140a should be plenty, crank it all the way up, burn it hot and slow, a pass on both sides

 

[RWKHausSupply]

crap man... I have built complete front and rear susp. setups, including what I have now, and never had my 130Amp 120V fail me. Even had a TJ roll about 5 times at 65MPH on the highway, and total it completly, but the cage (done a handful even with it) didnt split one weld. Matter fact the cage was in good condition even. He would have rather of been in the TJ then the ford he was towing it with (the tj was on a trailer and it all rolled).

I like the .035 wire over .030 with gas though for the thicker stuff. Lots more clean-up though.

Just my experience, which isnt as qualified as some here, but all the same, experience.

 

[BrettM]

I would use flux-core for welds with a 110v machine on 1/4", it burns hotter. Do some good prep work, bevel the edge a little, weld both sides, and then it's all up to your skills, which won't need to be anything amazing.

 

[Mr.OverKill]

if you are worried about the solid stealing your heat, pre heat the solid with a torch before you weld, and i would agree with the previous comment about using flux core for the 1/4 in or better with the lower voltage machines, the 120V machines say that with flux core they will weld 1/4 plate and only 1/8 with solid wire ( or close to that )

if you pre heat and flux core it it should hold just fine.

HTH

 

[ktm racer 419]

sounds good. any charts/tips on what I want to preheat the base metal to?

thanks for the tips.

-sam

 

[Sven]

If you're worried enough about it to be asking here you need to take it to a professional weldor and pay to have it done. Use your Hobart for tacking it where you want it and have the weldor get after it with TIG.

If you decide to do it yourself try to weld some test pieces first. Make sure everything is clean by running over it with a wire brush until the scale and rust is gone, back to shiny metal, and wiping it down with acetone to remove any residue. People will tell you clean doesn't matter and I'm here to tell you different. Especially if you're at the limit of your machine you'll get a much cleaner and deeper weld if your machine doesn't have to bite through scale or rust or paint to get to the metal, not to mention all those things could contaminate your weld.

 

[DirtyMJ]

I'm no expert, but I really doubt this application needs TIG welding. I wouldn't do that at least, I'd just go at it with the stick. Of course, that implies that I'd actually use solid stock for something.


Like was said, preheat a bit with a propane torch and go at it with full amperage and the flux core. Should be fine.

 

[Weasel]

what is the steel grade?

 

[unrealtrip]

The comments about preheating and flux core are your best bet for that welder. IMHO

 

[BIGMO32]

I would use flux-core for welds with a 110v machine on 1/4", it burns hotter. Do some good prep work, bevel the edge a little, weld both sides, and then it's all up to your skills, which won't need to be anything amazing.

definately the right way to go. also make sure you pull the weld

 

[bj-666]

why do you suggest pulling the weld?

 

[tealcherokee]

pulling/pushing the puddle has more effect w/ gas than it does it fluxcore, and with flux core id push the puddle because it doesnt fill as well as gas/soild core does

 

[Mr.OverKill]

pulling/pushing the puddle has more effect w/ gas than it does it fluxcore, and with flux core id push the puddle because it doesnt fill as well as gas/soild core does

i disagree, when welding with a flux core you always drag the puddle due to the splatter effect. if you push it the splatter builds up creating an in complete fusion or false puddle with lack of tie in. when using gas you generally push it but at that temp range i would drag it so the heat is focused. hope that helps some.

 

[bj-666]

i disagree, when welding with a flux core you always drag the puddle due to the splatter effect. if you push it the splatter builds up creating an in complete fusion or false puddle with lack of tie in. when using gas you generally push it but at that temp range i would drag it so the heat is focused. hope that helps some.

thanks i think it helps people (including myself) alot more when people not only tell you the best way to do something but explain the reasoning behind it .

 

[XJ_ranger]

If you're worried enough about it to be asking here you need to take it to a professional weldor and pay to have it done. Use your Hobart for tacking it where you want it and have the weldor get after it with TIG.

If you decide to do it yourself try to weld some test pieces first. Make sure everything is clean by running over it with a wire brush until the scale and rust is gone, back to shiny metal, and wiping it down with acetone to remove any residue. People will tell you clean doesn't matter and I'm here to tell you different. Especially if you're at the limit of your machine you'll get a much cleaner and deeper weld if your machine doesn't have to bite through scale or rust or paint to get to the metal, not to mention all those things could contaminate your weld.

yeah - for the BEEFY Solid Stock, id attack that with a TIG machine or go home. Id but the tabs out of 304 Stainless as well for extra strength, and make sure to use some 1" or larger bolts to hold it on for extra strength.

lets all sackride on tig welds and other things we dont understand...