Water Wetter

[ParadiseXJ]

OP Qoute:

So fix the exhaust leaks!!!!!:twak:


a $1.50 donut!!!!:cheers:

The cheapest, easiest most overlooked fix out there!!!!

I replaced the donut...it took all of 10 minutes. Apparently I have a crack in the manifold, that I haven't found yet. This week is full, my weekend is fuller...when I get my other car back, I can work on this.

thanks

 

[souske]

A1 auto has a decent one for ~100 or so

 

[Ecomike]

I also sometimes wonder if the common intake-exhaust manifold gasket and proximity of the I-E ports and common intake leaks from loose bolts don't lead to intakes sucking in exhaust on some of the rigs that never get located, that cause permanent unsolved overheating problems.

 

[joe_peters]

I replaced the donut...it took all of 10 minutes. Apparently I have a crack in the manifold, that I haven't found yet. This week is full, my weekend is fuller...when I get my other car back, I can work on this.

thanks

three feet of rubber or vinyl hose. Stick one end in your ear, move the other end around the engine--avoiding moving engine parts--and you will locate the exhaust leak. DISCLAIMER THAT SHOULDN'T HAVE TO BE SAID: be careful that you don't get too close to the source of the leak and blow out an eardrum.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I somewhat glanced over most of the posts in this thread. If you do not already know this, the trans "cooler" is run through the rad. Your trans running warmer during load/up hills is most likely at least part of the cause in higher temp. When I put my heep through its paces in the mountains and such the engine gets warm.
Just something to consider, whether you by-pass completely or run an external trans cooler I am sure it will make a difference. I probably should install a trans cooler. But, I want to go a GM LSx motor swap and not sure if I am keeping my AW4 or not. I guess it doesn't matter as I will end up with a trans cooler if I use another auto anyways.

 

[5-90]

I also sometimes wonder if the common intake-exhaust manifold gasket and proximity of the I-E ports and common intake leaks from loose bolts don't lead to intakes sucking in exhaust on some of the rigs that never get located, that cause permanent unsolved overheating problems.

Which is why I say to never throw away those bowl-shaped washers, or replace them with Bellevilles if they're not there anymore! They're there for a very good reason, and I've explained it in detail before (and therefore see no need to do so again.)

One of these days, I'd like to experiment with how many Belleville washers would be needed - for some reason, I'm thinking that two nested under the screw head will do a better job than the heavy OEM washers. Downside? If the screws come off, replace the washers (but, if the screws are SAE carbon steel or CRES, they should be replaced out of hand as well anyhow.)

 

[donthelegend]

5-90, do you have a source for those Belleville washers (or the OEM ones)? I've looked a couple times and haven't had any luck finding them. My factory washers were rust-welded to the bolts and completely not re-usable.

 

[ParadiseXJ]

three feet of rubber or vinyl hose. Stick one end in your ear, move the other end around the engine--avoiding moving engine parts--and you will locate the exhaust leak. DISCLAIMER THAT SHOULDN'T HAVE TO BE SAID: be careful that you don't get too close to the source of the leak and blow out an eardrum.

I only have 2.5 ft of hose...now what??

If you do not already know this, the trans "cooler" is run through the rad....

Yes, I know this quite well and even though it gets chilly here in the winter, it's never c-c-cold. That's why the rad loop is bypassed. I'm more concerned with too hot than too cold. I was considering relocating the HD trans cooler away from the radiator, as the "heat sandwich" just behind the grill consists of T-cooler, A/C condenser, radiator. All three get hot (when the A/C is running) and the first sheds heat just to add heat to the next. Seems counter productive.

 

[joe_peters]

I only have 2.5 ft of hose...now what??

Lots of guys have a short hose--you will just have to learn how to use it better. :cheers:

 

[ParadiseXJ]

Lots of guys have a short hose--you will just have to learn how to use it better. :cheers:

OK, I'll stick it in my ear. :laugh: Or is that not right?

 

[5-90]

5-90, do you have a source for those Belleville washers (or the OEM ones)? I've looked a couple times and haven't had any luck finding them. My factory washers were rust-welded to the bolts and completely not re-usable.

Any MRO house should have them, they're common in machine work as "anti-backlash" springs.

Online? Fastenal, MSC Direct, J&L Industrial, ...

You'll want the 3/8" size. Just like the OEM "bowl" washers, they go with the open end toward the manifold flanges (optionally, you can put a flat washer under them to improve the bearing area against the flange, but it's not strictly necessary.)