Upgrading to 136a alt, ANL fuse ?

[Bdiddy11]

Is there a different type of fuse I can use safely besides an ANL fuse/holder for the PDC portion of the upgrade to power cables + alternator?

Can't seem to find anywhere local that sells the blade type of ANL fuses or fuse holders and need to get my Grand Cher. alt in sooner than later as my alt is about to shoot the crapper.

 

[MoparManiac]

My friend Ken (kastein) grabbed me a 175A ANL fuse off a mid 90s F250 I believe.

Sorry for the crap picture.

Should work for your setup.

 

[fyrfytr1717]

ANL fuses can usually be found at your local car stereo dealer/installer, usually in a variety of different amperages. Typically the ends will be the fancy "gold plated" stuff but work the same nonetheless. Boating stores sometimes carry them as well.

If you're not against ordering online, 5-90 here on sells them on his website, that's where I got mine. You can also buy them from any one of the many online electronics retailers and have it in a couple of days. Pay a little extra shipping and you could probably have it tomorrow. Sounds like you've been putting this repair off for awhile as it is...

For ANL fuse holders, I like the Blue Sea Systems stuff myself:

 

[Bdiddy11]

My cel just came on. Its had low voltage off and on. But now with the alt cel coming on kinda puts this on a do it soon list. I'm not opposed to online and was planning on getting it from 5-90 if I can't find it local. Stereo shop wants like $35 just for the holder. Walmart carries a huge blade and holder. Just not sure if that kind works. I'll post the link later

 

[5-90]

My friend Ken (kastein) grabbed me a 175A ANL fuse off a mid 90s F250 I believe.

Sorry for the crap picture.

Should work for your setup.

I've seen those - that's actually a MEGA fuse, which is most often industrial.

The ANL fuses are typically used in autosound, which is why I picked them. They're a bit easier to find, and industrial supply houses tend to keep banker's hours (autosound shops are a bit more open.)

PM answered - I just need more information to answer your question properly.

 

[Bdiddy11]

Looks like i'll be doing this sooner than later...alternator decided it wanted to give out this morning. Went out to warm up the Jeep before work, turned it off to go lock the door... went to turn the Jeep back on and no worky =/

Talk about a cold scooter ride to work.

Can't find the link to the Walmart fuse thing that I found... but it's similar to the Maxi fuses, but in the 200+amp category... they're big. Wasn't sure if something like that would work. I'll try to find something similar.

5-90, how long would it take to ship to 83705?

 

[OutkastBoss]

I Used the origional stud on the front of the pdc and to the left of that is a slot to add a second stud then it is perfect size for buss fuse ( i used a 175amp) and even has a clip to hold it

Also if you havent gotten your alt yet i used a 160amp out of an 01-03 durango with a 5.9.. it plugs right up to the xj wiring on my 01 at least (if they give you the right part) .. you have to clearance the bracket though (easy)..

I left on the old wiring as well ... Besides the braided ground from block to firewall and batt to firewall wich i threw out .. . and i noticed that if i disconnect the old run the voltage guage in dash reads a little low

 

[OutkastBoss]

And the fuse was bought at the local auto parts store

 

[MoparManiac]

I've seen those - that's actually a MEGA fuse, which is most often industrial.

The ANL fuses are typically used in autosound, which is why I picked them. They're a bit easier to find, and industrial supply houses tend to keep banker's hours (autosound shops are a bit more open.)

PM answered - I just need more information to answer your question properly.

Thanks for the info, I had no idea.

:thumbup:

 

[Bdiddy11]

So I assume it's safe how you did it OutKast? What's the difference between what you did and an ANL fuse holder? The fact that it has an all weather cover on it? What kind of stud did you use and where did you get it? I wouldn't mind doing this as a temporary fix until I can get a fuse holder. Gonna call around to some marine places and see if they got any in stock... if not, i'll ghetto rig it up and wait for 5-90.

 

[Bdiddy11]

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT0/298900.oap?keyword=fuse+block&pt=N1177&ppt=C0172

Maybe that will work? Might have to notch it out a bit since i'm using #2 welding cable for my cables..

Edit: Scratch that... they don't carry them in stock and it's 7 days for shipping

 

[OutkastBoss]

its safe yes.. and theres a cover that goes on there that i took off to take picture.. it snaps on and off .. it had to have some cut off of it to fit back on after i upgraded the wires.. also you could pack with dieletric grease


I went to wal mart and in the auto section they had a battery area w connectors and wires n junk..

1.they have the extra stud for the pdc.
(i just used a bolt and ground the head to fit)

2. lengths of 2ga wire with ring terminals on both end 55"
(i think i bought 3)

3.. and 2 boxes of ring terminals 2ea. box..
(got biggest i could and trimmed wire to fit)

4. Advance auto parts had the fuse.
(i walked in and said whats the biggest fuse you got)

I used the existing ring terminal on one end cut the wire to length and then crimp rimg terminal to other end (i bashed with hammer on top of bolt head lol).. then tape nice and good!

and heres where i ran the wires.
Negative
1. - batt to firewall (replace stock location throw out stock wire)
2. - Block to firewall (replace and throw out braided crap ground)
3. - Batt to group of ring terminals grounded behind alt.
- Left connected stock batt neg to (heads behind alt in the bundle)

Positive
1. + Batt to starter (left old power run hooked too)
2. + Batt to P.D.C. (right stud)
3. + from added Stud in P.D.C. to Alt + (left old power run hooked too)
left connected stock batt + to (heads behind alt in the bundle)
left connected the stock batt + to p.d.c. right stud then hooked
stock p.d.c. to alt + to right stud as well ..


connect the two studs with the fuse ..
Cut little plastic cover for p.d.c. to fit back on and voila!!

I reccomend grabbing some rough sandpaper to rough up where connections will be made.. and i added some washers to some of my connections to ensure good solid secure connections..

You dont have to connect the old stuff but i didnt like the thought of cutting it out . or leaving it taped (where bare) and hanging around in there . or even zip tied in tight would probably bother me (im obsessive)
Ive tried to get the power to drain at idle by leaving everything on full blast (subwoofer too) and cant get the volt gauge to budge! (gonna have to run the winch and see if thatll do it

Im shure 5-90's wires would be crimped better and probably not taped but secured a better way. and would be way more convenient as you dont have to cut to length and crimp..

But this way was cheap easy and in no way temporary for me

 

[Bdiddy11]

Thanks for the info OutKast. It's basically just the fuse holder I need. I've already got my cables... bought some #2 welding cable from weldingsupply.com for $26, bought a hammer crimper for $15, bought black/red heat shrink for like $10...

Just lack the fuse holder. I'll have to check out Wal-Mart to see what I can do to make my own. Need my car asap and shipping will at least be a few days out from anywhere. Thanks =)

 

[OutkastBoss]

ya i figured that mighta been T.m.I.

since the slot is already there and the fuse fits so perfectly and even has a clip for the fuse and a cover .. id say you already have a fuse holder. because that cant be coincedental . all you need is the fuse . and a stud i used a bolt from ace and ground down head to fit in slot. but later noticed walmart had the ones made to go right in

got my fuse at advance auto parts

Anyway good luck

 

[5-90]

So I assume it's safe how you did it OutKast? What's the difference between what you did and an ANL fuse holder? The fact that it has an all weather cover on it? What kind of stud did you use and where did you get it? I wouldn't mind doing this as a temporary fix until I can get a fuse holder. Gonna call around to some marine places and see if they got any in stock... if not, i'll ghetto rig it up and wait for 5-90.

It would be a few days - while I ship USPS Priority Post, I have to wait for a batch of fuse holders coming in (probably Friday or Saturday, at soonest.)

For the MEGA fuse, the PDC is apparently "just right" for it - but check to make sure there's not an internal connexion that would end up bypassing the fuse (I'm sure there's a reason that the OEM fuse protection was moved from being a pair of MAXI60 fuses in the PDC to a fusible link segment in the output lead - the fuse added on may or may not be doing anything...)

You can run a higher-output alternator on the OEM lead temporarily - it will do fine until the system decides it wants to swing to full output and blow the fusible link (read: normal service will be fine - it's only a problem if you demand more.) That will buy you the time until you can finish assembling parts together for the install.

PM answered again. I just want to make sure we're on the same page with what you need, is all.

 

[OutkastBoss]

theres nothing that connects it to bypass the fuse ..

I wonder why they did move it though im shure there was some reason whether valid or for cost effectiveness..

I had my car looked over by an automotive electrician after i was done So im pretty confident its just fine ..


ive had the headlights wipers stereo w subwoofer a/c and winch all running at the same time to see if i can get the volt gauge to move i bet that wouldve put it into full output.. (i think)