Upgrades for stock battery terminals for multiple accessories?

[Bdiddy11]

Thanks =) gonna be putting in an alternator from a GC so need to upgrade the wiring and what-not. Just want to make sure I order the right stuff

 

[DanMan2k06]

Ummm if they're talking about #2awg and 2/0 that's a huge difference. 2/0 will be about 4 times the thickness of 2awg. Once you get below 0 gauge it goes to 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 etc. Sometimes also written as 00, 000, 000 and so on.


Edit: Cool didn't see page two. I'm an idiot.

I doubt many people run 2/0 in their Jeeps, and almost certainly not on a stock Jeep

I had my big 3 in 2/0 at first, but it was just stupid. The wire is literally the size of a garden hose, and even the EXTREMELY fine stranded welding cable is still retardedly stiff. Not to mention heavy as sin. I later switched them all to #1awg and could never tell the difference. Even with 10, 100 watt lights on the rig.

 

[87manche]

I just had to do the battery cables in my wife's Camry and I came across these:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=263-680

I think all my vehicles are going to get them. Clean, neat and no ring terminals or connectors to corrode.

 

[RCP Phx]

I just had to do the battery cables in my wife's Camry and I came across these:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=263-680

I think all my vehicles are going to get them. Clean, neat and no ring terminals or connectors to corrode.

No way to prevent moisture/corrosion since you cant seal the wires/cables!

 

[MG2000XJ]

I ended up going with 5-90's cables along with military style terminals. Cant wait to get it all installed so I can start on my stereo build.

 

[87manche]

No way to prevent moisture/corrosion since you cant seal the wires/cables!

There are plenty of ways to protect the cable from corrosion. SOme heatshrink on the end just before it goes into the terminal, packed with di electric grease will seal the cable jacket. Some more grease in the connector and on the cable end will protect it. It's not any different than the treatment of standard ring terminals.

I tend to have a need to take them apart long before any corrosion starts. My junk is trailer queen, not DD.

 

[5-90]

Have you considered a distribution post that isn't on the battery? That's how I wired up my accessories...

As far as wire gage sizes - all numbers are American Wire Gage (AWG) sizes, and (legend has it) are originally derived from how many steps through drawing dies it took to get mill stock down to the given size. That's why the wire gets small as the number gets larger.

I've seen wiring from 4/0AWG (that's 0000AWG) down through about a 36AWG. The 36AWG was used for things like data interconnects on circuit boards (where a trace couldn't be drawn directly,) with things like telephone wire or twisted pair LAN wire taking a 24AWG.

0000AWG has the copper part about as thick as your thumb. Seriously high current here - you need to move more than that, and you're getting into "entry" sizes (which run anywhere from as thick as your wrist to as thick as the average calf) or Buss bar (which is simply a bare, rigid, solid copper bar.)

Anything listed as a number of zeroes is wiring that's larger than the typical 1AWG, and multiple zeroes are typically condensed as "2/0," 3/0," or "4/0." (Pronounced "two-aught," "three-aught," or "four-aught," respectively.)

Figure anything larger that 8AWG will need a "press crimper" (or a hammer crimper,) and even AWG is borderline (depends on your forearms and your crimper, more than anything else. My staking tool will only go up to 10AWG, although I've crimed up to 6AWG by hand pressure.)


If you need a hand designing your setup, hit me backchannel and I'll see what I can do to help.

 

[87manche]

Have you considered a distribution post that isn't on the battery? That's how I wired up my accessories...

Yeah, but I was lazy and ran all of the wires to a battery terminal post. Now it's nasty, I don't feel like running wires again and the P3 terminal is an easy way out.

sometimes laziness wins over correctness.:dunno:

 

[Bdiddy11]

Will this work to crimp 2awg welding cable? Got a good deal on some pre-cut cable and need to make some battery cables but need a way to crimp it... and where can I get some good lugs for the project? Is it best to look somewhere local or order online?

 

[RCP Phx]

Will this work to crimp 2awg welding cable? Got a good deal on some pre-cut cable and need to make some battery cables but need a way to crimp it... and where can I get some good lugs for the project? Is it best to look somewhere local or order online?

Yes,that crimper will work.As for lugs,a welding supply house would be the best bet.

 

[dellstopjeep]

I don't like hanging accessories off the battery. The alternator powers everything while the engine is running. I like to install a junction block then run the main feed from the alternator to the junction block, then run a charge line to the battery from there. Keeps things much neater.

like you after hearing your situation with the battery I think its time for a fitchbox or a relay/fuse panel in a hobby box mounted somewhere seperatly. THe best way to crimp big lugs is with a crimper that uses dies instead of all on one tool. They can do the bigger sizes like 1/0. Being I work at a electrical distributor they have one I borrow but we let the public borrow it as well. Try your local electrical distributor/supply company and if you by lugs there they might have a tool for you to borrow for free.

 

[Bdiddy11]

Are the Harbor Freight lugs too 'cheap' of quality?

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=cable+lug

Trying to source some local lugs so that way I don't have to wait as long for getting some shipped...called one of the local battery places and they want $2.50 a piece... and $15 for the labor of crimping my cables. Thinking of just buying the eBay crimper so I have one on hand for future use as well since it's basically the same price as the labor.

Weldingsupply.com has some low cost lugs too but not sure which ones i'd need. They list their stuff weird or i'm just stupid =/ it's the same place I bought my cable. Bought the #2 orange super flex stuff. 13ft for $21 shipped to my door.

 

[RCP Phx]

Are the Harbor Freight lugs too 'cheap' of quality?

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=cable+lug

Trying to source some local lugs so that way I don't have to wait as long for getting some shipped...called one of the local battery places and they want $2.50 a piece... and $15 for the labor of crimping my cables. Thinking of just buying the eBay crimper so I have one on hand for future use as well since it's basically the same price as the labor.

Weldingsupply.com has some low cost lugs too but not sure which ones i'd need. They list their stuff weird or i'm just stupid =/ it's the same place I bought my cable. Bought the #2 orange super flex stuff. 13ft for $21 shipped to my door.

I wouldn't trust those lugs,not enough surface area and I'd be concerned about their wall thickness.Welding Supply is a great source,give them a call(thats where I bought my last TIG from)!

 

[RCP Phx]

There are plenty of ways to protect the cable from corrosion. SOme heatshrink on the end just before it goes into the terminal, packed with di electric grease will seal the cable jacket. Some more grease in the connector and on the cable end will protect it. It's not any different than the treatment of standard ring terminals.

I tend to have a need to take them apart long before any corrosion starts. My junk is trailer queen, not DD.

Thats why people crimp/solder/heat shrink their terminals.
BTW:di-electric grease is for stopping electricity from flowing(ex:spark plug boots).
For electrical connections you want an "electrically conductive" grease like "No-Lox".