• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

UCA Toque Specs.... Am I Just Dumb?

You have another upper arm still holding it. You can't twist the tube and get castor to change from one side to the other. So most likely nothing noticable changed. It did move though probly immeasurable though specifically by some fast food so called alignment specialists

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
You have another upper arm still holding it. You can't twist the tube and get castor to change from one side to the other. So most likely nothing noticable changed. It did move though probly immeasurable though specifically by some fast food so called alignment specialists

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
you be surprised...

cant tell you how many times ive driven a bound up UCA bolt out with a punch and watched the whole axle shift. a 4 link with panhard inherently has bind in the system, and it is the bushings job to deflect. the Cs arent changing relationship to each other, but whats happening is without that second upper link, the bushings in the remaining upper doesnt have the same support, and the axle is rolling for/aft from its own weight and the springs putting pressure on it. the fact that you can see that the bolt doesnt drop right in means that yes the change is in fact measurable, and it would manifest itself as a small wheelbase change.

to get the second UCA lined up, i usually put a jack stand under either the pinion or steering horn, depending on which way the axle needs to role.
 
The change is in bushing slop and wear. So I guess yes caster could change but will stay consistent c-c



Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Does anyone have any tips for aligning bolt holes on the UCA to axle? I took the passenger side bolt out and the mount itself moved forward slightly and now the holes for the mount and UCA don't align. I was going to loosen the retaining nut and lengthen the arm slightly. Any other easy ways?

https://imgur.com/gallery/NnFW6gy

I would suggest that you shorten the pass side back to where it was to avoid more damage to the driver's side bushing.
 
How do you know they were both the same length to start with. Maybe they are correct now.

Measure when in doubt.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Do you still have the head of the broken bolt, so we can see the markings?

To align the second upper, I had decent success raising one side of the axle or the other, to flex the axle a little and take advantage of the rotation arcs. Assuming that the arms were the right lengths to start with.
 
I don't have a pic of it but it has 8.8 stamped on it, which I took to mean Class 8.8 which is comparable to a Grade 5, right?
 
One of the reinstalls of the new control arms, due to new springs for a lift, I found that the springs were torquing the axle. I placed a bottle jack under the spring mount to lift it if the axle mount hole was forward of the control arm.

What I ended up doing was to ensure everthing lined up without the springs and the measurements were good, then mounted the springs. A lot of work, but it has paid off.
 
Back
Top