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Transmission Pump Seal (how far in?)

All,

I'm about to donate my 160k 95 XJ to my sister-in-law but, before I do that I've decided to rebuild the 4.0 mill. Now that the engine is fresh I've decided to swap the trans filter & fluid, and put in a fresh trans pump/torque converter shaft seal and rear shaft seal. On the front pump shaft seal, I popped the old one out without a problem. Now that I have the new one in I can't seem to remember how far in the seal goes. Does anyone know if it sits flush with the face of the seat, or if it sits beyond and is sunk in? Or will it bottom out in the recess and stop? I can't see behind it now, so it's hard to tell.

I just don't want to do this major swap, freshen up everything and find that the new seal has popped out & the engine needs to be pulled just to replace this seal! That would suck like Monica at a Clinton fund raiser, especially on the 1800 mile road trip it'll be taking to deliver it in two weeks (towing my 2000 XJ behind).

For those interested, I've got some pics of the rebuild while I was assembling it. If your curious the total cost out the door was $975.00 for all parts and machine work (including the head; new ex seats and valves, NDT). Plus I did a little porting and CC'd all of the chambers using a Sunnen flow bench designed for Lycoming aircraft engines. I hope this willmake a difference. Anyway add an additional $200 or so for new hoses, a belt, O2 sensor, t-stat, battery, oil, old filter, master cylinder, oil pressure sending unit, EBay NSS, etc. So, for around $1200 bucks, you can refresh about 80% of your Jeep (save for the trans). This trans is the toy-yoda copy, so I know it'll last a while from the 160k mark on.

Thanks for any info!

M Randolph

Oh, and watch that center #3 main bearing. It'll screw up us SBC chevy guys!
 
I'm sure there's a "bottom" to the thing, so you won't go in too far. I'm reasonably sure I just bottomed out the seal last time I did it, so you should be fine.

If you haven't put it back together yet, take a moment to smear a little grease/assembly lube all over the torque converter snout and that will help everything slide together - not that it won't go, but there are few things more infuriating that finding out you just ripped that new seal putting things back together....

5-90
 
5-90. Thanks for the reply. I ended up using a collar of the same diameter and a dead blow hammer to drive it in until it would go no more. It looks like it's nearly flush, with about a mm of material above the seat face (mainly the rubber coating). I put a little assy lube in the inner seal face, but that likely went away once the TQ pump shaft "scraped" through the hole. All is together now save for a missing driver side bolt for the bell housing. I think by dog buried it somewhere.

Thanks again! First run on the new slugs is tomorrow.

M Randolph
95 XJ Sport 4x2 (160k, fresh 4.0, mild port & CC'd head)
00 XJ Sport 4x4 (dead stock and SLOW)
 
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