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Transfer case drop bolt size

DrinkBeer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Minnesota
I'm going to be doing a transfer case drop soon here just by stacking an inch of washers on the bolts that hold the transfer case up.

I was wondering if someone could give me the specs on the stock bolt size, or if possibly the specs on 1" longer bolts to go in their place.

Thanks!
 
I've seen it done, but I opted to cut up some old bushings/sleeves, as I didn't have any other decent material around when I did mine. Washers was plan B. It's been a few months, and it's fine- hasn't fallen out, cured the vibes- but I can't stand the way it looks with 4 little cylinder shapes and a gap. I'm waiting to catch a stick/road debris in there.
 
some are SAE(3/8") not metric.
 
I just used some stainless hi pressure steam piping that I found in the junk bin where I work. I think it is 3/32" wall thickness. Cut it into 1" lengths.
Since I wasn't sure of the strength of these spacers, I drilled 2 holes positioned so I could insert 2 more bolts secured to the pinch weld side of the frame. These spacers had to be 1.5" long because the frame angles up at the pinch weld. Have a total of 4 bolts per side. So far, so good.
 
Last edited:
10MMX50MMB 10 X 50 METRIC BOLT/10.9 Qty 4

Info from Skyjacker 1" t/case drop kit.
 
If, like me, you make things difficult just for the hell of it:
Drill out the weld nuts and tap them for 7/16" hardware. I've heard tell of people using 1/2" hardware with no problems.
The stock crossmember has two nuts and two bolts. The nuts attach to studs which can be a pain in the ass to take out. I used a propane torch to heat the metal around the stud, expanding it enough to break the (rusted) stud free and remove it. All other strategies had failed -- including the breakage of a brand new craftsman stud puller.
Good luck!
 
If, like me, you make things difficult just for the hell of it:
Drill out the weld nuts and tap them for 7/16" hardware. I've heard tell of people using 1/2" hardware with no problems.
The stock crossmember has two nuts and two bolts. The nuts attach to studs which can be a pain in the ass to take out. I used a propane torch to heat the metal around the stud, expanding it enough to break the (rusted) stud free and remove it. All other strategies had failed -- including the breakage of a brand new craftsman stud puller.
Good luck!
 
just tapped my front 2 holes they are metric m10x1.5
whatever length you need.
 
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