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trailer hitch nutcerts

All good advice here. Another NAXJA member has offered me a set. Now it's down to soring wiring and deciding whether to add hook or skid at the same time.

Last night I read 23 pages of threads from search results.

Opinions?
 
I recently added a factory hitch and skid to my '96.
The exhaust hanger will need to be changed because there is much less width between the tank and springs with the skid. I had a hook welded to the exhaust and made an upper hanger out of a gate latch and plate bolted in with the skid / hitch. I also used a wide exhaust donut to keep the pipe from swiging and banging.
 
docchaynes said:
So the exhaust bolts back up through the hitch to the new nutcert? Lookls like it may go from two bolts to one.
It's been a while but I believe so. JIM.
 
RichP said:
I dread having to replace my fuel pump, already know it's going to be a battle that I sure as heck won't want to tackle out in the driveway in the winter.

I shit you not, my fuel pump went out the weekend after I spent several evenings after work removing my hitch and reinstalling it with a skid in place. I cut a hole in the floor of the trunk and made a nice stainless cover plate.
 
My bargain $50 hitch is gnawing at me piece by piece. I priced the M12 - 1.75 x 40 8.8 strength bolts in stainless at $44 for two packs of five. I guess the stainless will make them more likely to hold up to the corrosion and accessable for me to add a skid later.

What about washers since these are not flange head? Wave washers, lock washers? I'd hate to have one of those boogers rattle out.
 
Just use grade 8 bolts, they will rust in & you will never have to worry about them coming out. JIM.
 
Wish they had not redesigned the gas tanks. On a Renix rig you don't have to drop the tank to get the fuel pump out, so you are saying you do on a 91+ rig? or is it just 97+?
 
Reminds me that it's going to be at least a weekend in dropping my skid, hitch and tank to get my farting fuel pump/filter/reg out this winter. AARGH! Why Chrysler, why? they're scaring me/us out of every owning a Mopar ever again, let alone going through the expensive babysitting of owning an XJ or Jeep EVER AGAIN. Engineering and maintenance shouldn't be such an elusive concept to save $ during (re)design.
 
Heh, true . . . but Mopar wanted that for each side and that's two bottles. Couldn't give up that second bottle , I think I'll need a drink by the time I get them installed.

One of the forum members hooked me up. I should have asked him if he'd trade for some Elijah Craig.
 
docchaynes said:
All good advice here. Another NAXJA member has offered me a set. Now it's down to soring wiring and deciding whether to add hook or skid at the same time.

Last night I read 23 pages of threads from search results.

Opinions?

Reading can't hurt :D

It's easier to to every thing at once IMO. Use plenty of anti-seize.
 
I got some grade 8.8 bolts and German wave washers and slathered them down with copper anti-seize. I'm waiting for the urethane bushings to start the spring install. I thought I read somewhere to avoid the Crown's but that's what came in the mail. Got to be better than my clapped out stockers.

eTrailer screwed up my wiring order so I sent their stuff back hoping to find a way to salvage the chopped 7-pin on the Mopar junk-yard hitch.

I'll remove the sway bar from the rear during the spring install.

I sourced some Monroe Reflex rear shocks. Will they still work if I do a 2" lift later?

And , does anyone have a stock gas tank skid they would llike to part with?
 
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