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TMC'S project: "Fire-Road Runner"

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone that is either reading, following along, or participating in this build so far. The forum really is a welcoming place with so much good info and awesome people. Thanks again!


Its been below freezing here recently so I havent gotten much Jeep-wrenching time in. I did score some more deals a few weeks back.

-48" Hi Lift $69 (free shipping)
Used my old one all the time in Boise! Never should have sold it before moving to DC

-pair of GE Nighthawk Headlamps $11 ea. (damaged package sale)
Love 'em! Complete difference from stock, plus better peripheral lighting

-Pro Comp Sway Bar links $40 (free shipping)
Work awesome! You already saw/know about those

-and some misc. parts for an upgrade Im working on/gathering parts for
I will install once it gets above freezing!


Also I got quite a haul on some christmas stuff thanks to being hooked up with gift cards. Gotta love the sweet wife and family!
:D



Updates soon! :clap:

[weather permitting] :eek:
 
I woke up this morning to an email with my requested build sheet.


A7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
ADH Heavy Duty Electrical Group
ADLP Skid Plate Group
ALAP SE Decor Group
APAS Monotone Paint
AWE Up Country Suspension Group
AWJP Visibility / Protection Group
BAFP 130 Amp Alternator
BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
CACP Low Back Bucket Seats
CDBP Reclining Front Seats
CFMS Rear Fold w/Removable Cushion Seat
CKAP Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area
CKNP Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTP Cargo Tie Down Loops
CSAP Spare Tire Cover
CUFP Full Length Floor Console
DBBC All Manual Transmissions
DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission
DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
DJHS Dana M30/181MM Front Axle
DMMS 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJS 175MM Rear Axle
DSA Trac-Lok Differential Rear Axle
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEDS Tinted Rr Drs/Qtr/Liftgate Glass
GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass
GFA Rear Window Defroster
GRZP Left Remote Mirror
GSZP Right Remote Control Mirror
GTZP Power Mirrors, Fold-Away
HAAP Air Conditioning
JAZS Analog Instrument Cluster
JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAP Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBP Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAS Cigar Lighter
LAPS Shift Indicator Warning Lamp
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
MB1S Black Front Bumper
MB5S Black Rear Bumper
MDAP Front License Plate Bracket
MFFS Black Grille
MHBS Bright Windshield Moldings
MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert
MMGS Belt Moldings
MTAS Rear Fascia Skid Plate Applique
MWAP Roof Rack
NAAS Federal Emissions
NBKS EVAP Control System
NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank
NMCP Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RABS AM/FM Radio
RCDP 4 Speakers
SBAS Power Steering
SCES Alcantara Wrap Steering Wheel
SFDP Front Extra HD Shock Absorbers
SGDP Rear Extra HD Shock Absorbers
SUAP Tilt Steering Column
TBBP Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TRNA P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WJM 15X7.0 Chrome Wheels
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XEAP Tow Hooks
XPFP Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

The things I found interesting are:
-HD electrical group
-130a alternator (didnt think you could get that high OEM)
-black bumpers/grille (mine are currently chrome)
-Trak-Lok rear diff
-HD engine cooling
-Alcantara wrap steering wheel (never heard of that before)

Part of me wonders whats all been swapped out/replaced over the years. The bumpers and grille are chrome, the rear axle has some faded paint-pen paint that says 3.07 cherokee which makes me think it was a junkyard replacement, so the trak-lok is probably gone lol. Also, the front engine skid isnt there either.

At any rate, it was neat to see how it came originally. :D
 
Well, I didnt get to work on the Jeep this weekend due to weather again, but I did recieve more goodies from the Christmas haul! :D

-20ft 3/8" grade 70 chain w/ grab hooks for only $50 with shipping!
-2 3"x6' tree saver straps
-3/4" 7500lb shackle

-plus some more misc parts for a project Im working on.... :compwork:

So I sold most/all of my recovery gear when we moved to DC a few years back, so Im having to build back up and this is an AWESOME start (along with the Hi-Lift I got as well)

Side note:
I am a firm believer in the Hi Lift jacks, both as a jack, "winch", and repair tool. My dad used them, I used them in high school, and I used one in Boise with my TJ. Yes, I know winches are easier/safer/quicker, but for someone thats strong/smart/safe enough to use one, they are a viable "budget" option. For me, they have been worth their weight in gold in all the places Ive ever wheeled.
Im also a firm believer in "take care of your equipment, and itll take care of you". Unless I come into an awesome deal on a winch or randomly find money lol, my Hi-Lift will be one of my main go-to trail recovery tools. :cool:


Thanks for reading and I promise......more updates soon!
 
So I got some more wrenching time in on the Jeep today. Two weeks ago I found a Reese Tow-power class 3 hitch on sale cheap online and jumped on it. It got here thursday but wasnt able to work on it until today.

Now I know most wont be interested in reading about a hitch install, but I know there are people out there that search for stuff like this. (I know I have been there before) Also, some hitches dont come with instructions or they are very vague.

The hitch has multiple mount options based on if you have a 96- or 97+:

-factory gas tank skid (has passenger nut strip)
-factory rear tow hook (has drivers nut strip)
-or a model without either of the above (will need to use the supplied hardware or buy OEM/aftermarket nut strips)



Fortunately my XJ has both so I have the nut strips on both sides. If you dont have either or just one, you will have to fish the supplied carriage bolts and plates through the rear of the "frame rail." It sounds tedious, but with the supplied "fishing" wire, its rather easy.


This is the factory tow hook. You have to remove the 3 bolts holding the bracket/hook on or else you cannot install the hitch


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You need to remove the two rear gas tank skid bolts as well as loosen the front two to where about 1/4in gap is showing between it and the "frame rail"


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Now the hitch will need to be slid in up above the gas tank skid to where it is sandwiched between the skid and the "frame rail"


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Then its just a matter of lining it all up and installing the bolts


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The final step (on a 96-) is to remove the front gas tank skid bolts and insert the supplied washers as spacers and reinstall the factory bolts. Then torque all hardware down to spec


Here is a before and after. For those who say hitches affect ground clearance, that may very well be true but I believe this Reese model does not.


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After all is said and done, I am very happy with how it went and how it looks. The nut strips made it SO much simpler. The only thing that took awhile is having to drive 40 min total in to town to get a 18mm socket.

[Side note: I hate that most major brands don't include them in their socket sets as well as wrench sets. Oh well, I have them now :lol: ]

Once that was done some WD-40 and my 17" breaker bar made quick work of it. :boxing:

[Another side note: I consider myself very very lucky to have an XJ with:
-no rust (thank you PNW)
-freshly rebuilt motor (thanks PO)
-NON sagging leafs (see pics)
-NO DW/driveline vibe (3" lift with no SYE or TC drop)
-consistent 17+ mpg city/hwy combined]


Also, before it started to rain I finally got the gun rack (JY find) mounted and I think it will work out great. This is the only picture I got when it was still in "mock-up", but I think the finished result looks and works great. You can also see one of the items I got in my Christmas stocking from my wife (the shovel not the tire iron :laughing:)...now I just need to find my axe and small clamps in storage and I can consider it done! :w00t:


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Don't mind my missing headliner material, that is one of the MANY things on my To-Do list once spring/summer get here.


I have a couple small projects still coming down the pike, so stay tuned!
 
Finally sold the black steelies with winter tires! I purchased some tools and a new set of jack stands with the money.
(Another item I previously sold with the D.C. move)

I also recieved my Zone 3" front coils and shocks from a Cherokee Forum member via the FedEx guy on thursday, thanks again Guntar13! :thumbup:

Now I just gotta sell my factory Upcountry coils/spacers and factory rear tow hook.

Once the warm weather is here, Ill be building a dakota pack for the rear.


Now we're getting somewhere. :D
 
Wow. It's been awhile since I've had an update. The weather here has been so screwy recently...

Received a box via FedEx at work from a Cherokee Forum member, thanks again Guntar!

Inside were Zone Off-road 3" coils and matching Zone Nitro front shocks. I didn't get many pictures of the install because I was once again fighting against the daylight. (MAN I need to get a place with a garage or shop)


I felt like it all went pretty smooth considering I:
a)didn't unbolt any control arms or the track bar
b)only had a few hours to do it
c)didn't use spring compressors
d)don't have a nice floor jack since I dont have a place to keep it


Here it is all set up and ready to start (dont judge my scissor jack)


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Here are the Zone 3" coils waiting to go in


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I just unbolted the top sway bar bolt, unbolted the bottom of the shock, and let the axle fully drop down. I then used a jack on the opposite side to force the axle down.


Out with the old.....


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.....and in with the new! Looks like I need to order some new bumpstops. They are missing from both sides. :eek:


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Here is the difference between shocks. Im not sure if the old ones were factory or not. Its hard to tell since there isnt really rust on this thing. :clap:


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Now I know there may have been some "easier" ways to do this: floor jack, unbolting control arms/track bar, and coil spring compressors etc


...but honestly, I live in a little town 45 minutes (round trip) away from any auto parts store and I just wanted to get this done. If I was installing a taller coil or a spacer with the current one I would have DEFINITELY used one or more of the above options. But everything I read before hand said it should be easy since it was considered "less than 3 inches total" and it turns out, it was!:D



FYI: the coils, shocks, and spacers are for sale if any other "budget minded" or "mild build" members are looking




More parts and updates coming soon. Stick around!
 
Well, I got a hold of some slightly used RC shackle relocation brackets. Bought them from a fellow member on CF, thanks again Chad!

I went to install them this weekend and it turns out my factory shackle buckets have just the one hole facing the front of the Jeep. The RC brackets require two holes for mounting...looks like I get to do a little fab work next time I get a chance to work on it. No offense to RC or Chad what-so-ever, I just think it can happen on some of the "earlier" older models.

Actually a fellow NAXJA member ran across the same problem with his Renix era 88. Heres a LINK ....so Ill honesty just have to do what he did.

This should level me out with the front and give me a great ride.



Updates soon.......


(for those following :D )
 
Looks really good man! I just recently picked up an 87 2dr and I love it. Keep up the good work! Ill be watching this build to get more ideas for mine :wave1:
 
Looks really good man! I just recently picked up an 87 2dr and I love it. Keep up the good work! Ill be watching this build to get more ideas for mine :wave1:

Thanks Mikey! I appreciate you following along!

As Ive said before, its not necessarily an "exciting" build, but I just dont live anywhere near any trails that warrant a bigger build. Im pretty happy with how its turning out so far. :D

Ive got quite a few project plans for it between now and summer (athough were expecting our second child/first girl in may :clap: ) so Im hoping to start on those soon as the weather stays nice.


Awesome! Ill keep an eye out for your build then!
 
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Ill try to start my thread soon! I don't plan on going to crazy myself but there are so many awesome on builds on here... it makes it hard to find the line
 
Ya Scotts garage gets pretty wild. Its a good wheeling spot. Jack stands are great obsticals and the driveway carnage is brutal. LOL
 
Ya Scotts garage gets pretty wild. Its a good wheeling spot. Jack stands are great obsticals and the driveway carnage is brutal. LOL


HAHA! :roflmao: Thats great! :D

In all seriousness though, the trip reports and posts yall have in your build threads.....seems like some freaking sweet wheeling on that side of the NW Chapter. TSF runs?......"forget about it!" :laugh:


I wont even begin to try to comment on your stuff SPECFab lol
 
Where in Washington are you? There is some good wheeling in our state too.

Im over here down in the wheat :laugh: , about an hour south/southeast of Spokane. Near Pullman and Moscow, ID.

I usually do my "wheeling" in the mountain fireroads just over the border in Idaho.


I know theres wheeling (Naches and the like) as you get more towards central and western WA, but it would be quite a drive and my rig isnt really built for anything "extreme" lol. I guess one would say I just get to "wheel vicariously" through others builds. Haha!
 
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I went to work on the shackle buckets, and I broke my socket and adapter :eek: so it looks like another week of PB Blaster soaking and a run to the parts store. First time Ive had any type of "hiccup" since I got the Jeep, so Im pretty happy actually. :laugh:

So I moved on to another item I had on my to-do list. On my Wrangler I had a few years ago, I had removed its so called carpet and bedlined the floors. I loved it. Clean up was so easy. Just removed the rubber mats, vacuum and/or wipe/wash the floor and your done. Naturally I had to use my past Jeep knowledge on another Jeep. You always hear about horror stories of people removing theirs in a XJ and finding rust, holes, or both. Well.....here was mine:

Driver:

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The driver side was pretty much perfect, couple of surface spots to scrub down and clean and it was good to go.



Passenger:

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Now those with a keen eye or have done this before may notice something peculiar about my pass floor board (not the small rust spots). I cant remember if I ever mentioned this, but this XJ has a WA Rebuilt title. I was able to register/insure it under my name without any problems, but it obviously had something happen to it to where the state had to issue it. I dont have any other picture except for this one. This is after I cleaned up the rust and laid some primer down before the 'liner.


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If you somehow cant see it or have never seen an XJ's floors, there is a crinkle in the sheet metal in the transmission hump that follows the channel and at the base going across the floor board.

Now I know it looks bad because of the lighting/shadows. When I first saw it, I immediately got under the Jeep and started inspecting the frame rail, motor/trans mounts, control arms/brackets, door jams, and under-hood cowling/firewall. I didnt find anything that seemed bent, patched, or re-welded.

My best guess?

Sometime in its life it took a hit in the right front fender or front corner and this is where the unitbody "gave way" along the factory floor pan channels.

At any rate, Im not too worried about it because:
-the front end is measuring true
-both frame rails are straight and solid
-all motor/trans/control arm mounts are solid/intact
-there is no other sign of damage
-its obviously been inspected to be able to receive a state registration approval
-a friend had the same thing happen to him with his old XJ in a similar spot


Moving on, so after the surface rust was removed, wiped down, then primed I started laying down bedliner. I wanted it to be textured but not super rough so I went with Duplicolor Truck Bed coating again. It took about 1 1/2 to 2 cans for multiple light coats. There were some spots that ran a little, but I think it turned out great since I didnt fully remove the interior.

Driver side:

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The black makes the sheet metal crinkles look worse than they actually are

Passenger side:
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After thoughts:

Extra road noise? None, although its a Jeep. If I wanted a quiet ride I would've bought a sedan.

Extra heat? I drove it for quite awhile after it dried and I didn't notice any difference what so ever. I think its because these would be thinner coats than if I would have used something like Herculiner or others.

Prep work? I didnt have the time/place to fully gut the interior and let it dry.
So for me the name of the game was masking. Also since I didnt have any rusted through spots or sheet metal to replace it went a lot faster.

Recommendations?
-Frog Tape. Amazing stuff. Period.
-A couple open boxes of A&H Baking Soda zapped the smell out of mine.




Ill be buying some HD floor mats for at least the front and back seats. Also I still have to do the cargo area and under the back seat, but I think the front came out great!

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Still more plans in the works, so keep checking back if your interested!
 
That floor turned out really nice.. I'll be doing something similar to the rear of my Jeep after a bunch of work is done.

and I agree, It looks like it was hit in the passenger side, and that one crush zone couldnt be fixed.
 
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