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The Wishbone MIGHT work! lotza PICS

hey, the reason I posted the pics was to get feedback, I don't take it as BS...the thing is, I can't really utilize any of the ideas posted here. Shit, I don't even know where the exhaust will go now! I figured I'd worry about that later.....

The thing that was important was one-ton talking me into sawing off anything that was in my way, including the exhaust/brakelines and fuel lines, and having that NOT be a distraction. if I kept the exhaust in place, I would have whimped-out on link placement at the frame, and I wouldn't have stuck with the original (so-called "optimal") link locations.....where the exhaust is currently, would have been a lame excuse no to go ahead with the link routes I wanted to run....

the same thing goes for the rear....when you see what I've done, is the result of having my "jeep psycology" modified....I began discussing link seperations and mounting locations, and I reply something like "I see where you are putting "link X", but you realize that is above the floorboard right?" and the responce is "Yep, sheetmetal sucks".......

so its been an extremly rewarding experience to change the way I "see" modifications....once you change your view that the xj platform is a "blank canvass" you realize how many times you've seen other modifications posted that conform too much to constraints that aren't really constraints......ex.: two of my rear links needed to go through the floor boards to imaginary spaces (soon to be actual locations) that make the geometry optimal, or at least ideal. One Funk helped me remember that I own cutting equpiment. Everything is a trade-off, the better part of the deal is usually the most difficult or labor/material intensive solution...how far do you wanna take it?

posting pics here for open critique is part of the process of measuring those boundaries.
 
Steering rams can be found cheaply at www.surpluscenter.com they ship usually the next day, I got mine in 3 days.

Trailer axles can be found at local trailer sales shops or at Rockstomper http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/pieces/hinge.htm for those of you so inclined.

I think the arms are gonna work fine, the lower frame ends where the heims are look wimpy to me, but I'm used to looking at my JJ ends.
 
unfortunatly, my orbital valve is 9.7 cu in, and the closest sized ram would give me 1.4 turns lock.....

that's scary quick.

yeah, i was thinking about going that route, but that would have meant also buying ANOTHER valve, somewhere around 5-6 cu in.......

I was past the point of no return, and I was told the ram shipped already....

gotta go with it i guess.

I was wondering....on a double-ended ram, I can put that thing off-center, can't I?

I can't imagine it effecting anything....
 
If you mount it off center, the only thing that you will have to keep in mind is that the angle if any to the arms must not change the amount/distance of the throw/push/pull uf the steering knuckles. Would not want it to steer pigion toed
 
I dont know what the hell Burrow is talking about, as usual. You should be fine with it off center as long as it's inline between the steering arms. But then you'll have to carry 2 sets of tie-rods instead of just one spare.
 
I don't think carrying spare tie rods should even be considered with your setup. If you've taken out a tie rod, you've taken out your entire steering setup.

Mounting a doubel ended ram off center is going to affect the radiuses (???) that the tie rods travel in. I guess they should actually be called drag links though, eh? Maybe we'll just call them steering links. Anyhow, as you turn your wheel your knuckles travel in an arc. I would think that if you have different length arms on your ram, the arc that the knuckles travel on is going to fight with the ram due to the different radiuses the steering links are going to be traveling on. I could be wrong, but I'm thinkin' I'm right this time.
 
1Ton, yes but if he carries a second ram & T/Rs then he's GTG. I think the rods will be fine with heims on each end, they should handle the arcs just fine.
 
keep it next to your 4 spare tires and extra t case too :rolleyes:

There is no doubt in my mind that the heims and whatever material he chooses to use as links can handle it. I don't know if this is going to cause push/ pull/ bind issues inside the ram. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I'd rather overthink it than waste $300+ on another ram.
 
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looks great beezil, just a thought for the next one you build, put the "A" arm on the bottom hooking to the lower part of the axle tube in the middle of the housing, run the upper links strait back. no driveline issues, the "A" will set under the oil pan and even act as a skid.
 
brent said:
looks great beezil, just a thought for the next one you build, put the "A" arm on the bottom hooking to the lower part of the axle tube in the middle of the housing, run the upper links strait back. no driveline issues, the "A" will set under the oil pan and even act as a skid.

Thought about that one myself but read in a book on the subject that the A mount on the axle determins the roll centre and it would not work that low in c relation to the upper mounts was the reason I think. Too long ago now and have long since returned the book but was disappointed that it couldn't be done safely.
There are guys here that would know it better than me and give the reason why it is never done;)
 
I've seen it done on a couple of rigs, and it seamed to work well for as well as the drivers could drive, which wasn't saying much for these punks.
 
Back from the dead!!!

Anyone still have the pictures... all RED X's
I remember it was pretty clean, Im looking at a wishbone or triangulated 4link for my front with full hydraulic. keep bending leafs.
 
i always forget how you spell his username (kazcman?), but this guy from Colorado has a nice front triangulated 4 link and full hydro:

177727067PARhYQ_ph.jpg

19_194.jpg
 
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