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The Frog Blog

Yeah, I probably shouldn't have posted that pic but I did not have that many good shots. Here's my only pic that shows a legit RTI score.

ry%3D400


There was a good turn out with a bunch of people there and yeah, I had to sign a liability release before I used the ramp.
 
Ugh. One thing is for certain, no matter how foolish I think I am for screwing something up, I quickly find there are dozens of XJ owners that have done the same thing before me. I have found comfort in knowing I am not alone in this dark world of Cherokee maintenance and can call up answes to questions spawned by my many mistakes.
 
Yeah, I probably shouldn't have posted that pic but I did not have that many good shots.

No, I was just kidd'in, and that photo proves your rear locker works! Without a rear locker as soon as that tire leaves the ground you have no push from the back tires and you are done.

Did they do the wheel base/tire width/ramp angle/tire hight math and give out the RTI scores?
 
No, I was just kidd'in, and that photo proves your rear locker works! Without a rear locker as soon as that tire leaves the ground you have no push from the back tires and you are done.

Did they do the wheel base/tire width/ramp angle/tire hight math and give out the RTI scores?

I have limited slip in the rear and a Spartan locker up front. I think my front locker pulled me up that ramp.

We were all playing too much to actually figure out the RTI score. I was happy enough to not have rolled over, so I drove away smiling.
 
So...back to my driving light issue. Last weekend I added new 55 Watt driving lights to the OE wiring and blew something immediately after flipping the switch to power both lights. I had power to the wires on both sides up to that point, and heard something pop when my kid hit the switch. I'm positive it is an inline fuse or something near the lights under the bumper.

All fuses inside the cab and under the power control unit look good, but the original 18 gauge wire is a problem. I did research on this forum, as well as my Haynes manual, and have determined that a driving light (fog light) relay is mounted to the side of the power control unit next to the battery. Strangely, there are no driving light relays inside the power control unit, even though two empty relay sockets are used for driving light relays. Sure. Whatever...

This weekend I will check for 12 volt power at the red wire going into the fog light relay. The Haynes manual shows that is hot at all times, but is fused. No power means bad fuse or broken wire. The headlamps circuit breaker shares power from that fuse so I believe the fuse is good since I have headlights. We'll see later this week when I can pull out my meter.

Next, I will ohm test the blue wires from each driving light to the relay. The Haynes manual shows those as red/white wires, but I can visually attest they are blue. Haynes also shows both driving light wires joining and connected to another circuit breaker, then running to an orange wire before entering the relay. That circuit breaker is the one I suspect is bad. I just need to find it, but Mr. Ohm Meter will certainly help me determine continuity. Damn, I love high school electronics. It's only been 27 years but I'm still using that basic electricity crap.

I will eventually run dedicated 12 gauge wires from the relay to each headlight. I should have enough 12 or 14 gauge wire in my supply of crap since I bought a bunch of it for wiring up my trailer last year. This should be an easy enough job to do, providing the wire routing is painless. Hmmm, maybe I should take a day off from work this week. It is supposed to be in the low 70's all week and that sounds perfect for wrenching on the heap.

Well...back to work for now. Sucks being a responsible adult.

[end]
 
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I'm going to make a few assumptions here, but I think I understand what you're trying to do with your lights...

If you are trying to make your new lights work with the OE Fog Light switch, you need to be aware of a few things. The relay in that circuit is actually before the fog light switch. Rather than supplying power to the fog lights, it actually supplies power to the fog light switch based upon the status of your headlights and high beams. Power is actually delivered to the fog lights through the switch. The switch was barely able to handle the OE fog lights (much less aftermarket driving lights) so the chances are pretty good that the switch's internals melted. Also consider that due to the fact that the factory fog light relay is designed to keep your fog lights legal, your driving lights will shut off whenever you turn on your high beams if you use the factory wiring.

Best solution here is to install new wiring with a relay supplying power to your new driving lights. You can still use the factory wiring to trigger the new relay if you want to keep the factory look.

If I made an incorrect assumption about your current wiring situation, you can disreagrd what I've written. If you have any questions about wiring colors, etc. let me know. I have a '99 FSM and have gotten pretty decent at reading the wiring diagrams.
 
I'm going to make a few assumptions here, but I think I understand what you're trying to do with your lights...

...If I made an incorrect assumption about your current wiring situation, you can disreagrd what I've written. If you have any questions about wiring colors, etc. let me know. I have a '99 FSM and have gotten pretty decent at reading the wiring diagrams.

I agree with what you have written, and have read about two dozen threads on the same subject. One thing you can verify for me, however, is the location of the fog light relay. I see a relay mounted independently to the side of the power control module, and not inside it where I expected it. I do not believe this to be an aftermarket wiring job. Again, this is premature as I have not had a chance to trace wires and test for voltage. The relay says "Fog Light Relay" on top and the color of wires appear to be correct (red, yellow, purple, black,...).

I will find out soon enough if I melted my switch. Hmmmm, would I be missed if I took half a day off from work tomorrow?
 
I am loving the extra hour of daylight. After a quick dinner, I made my way out to figure out what is going on with my driving lights. I believe I made some good progress, but I am far from figuring this out. Here is what I discovered:

1) I began by checking continuity of all light wiring from the suspected relay. All blue power wires and black ground wires tested good and I was able to verify the OE wires are 14 gauge. That should be adequate for the 55 Watt lights I am attempting to run.

2) Thanks to all the recent rain and warm temps, the mosquitoes were horrendous. This is not a new revelation, but a reminder that I am nothing more than a bag of warm red blood to them.

3) The fog light relay depicted in the center of this photo appears to be good. This relay threw me for a loop the other day, but further inspection on the forum and in the engine compartment showed it to indeed be the relay in question. I do not know why it is not located inside the power control unit.

ry%3D400


4) I checked for voltage at the red and yellow wires with headlight and fog light switches on and off. Yellow wire shows voltage with low beams, but not with high beams, as expected. Red wire did not have the 12 volts I expected. Schematic shows that should be hot at all times. I was on to something.

5) I checked and double checked all circuit breakers, but everything looked good. I was confused by the missing power source, until I traced the red wire to a junction mounted on the coolant bottle. At first I thought that was a sensor, but I opened it up and found a blown 20A fuse. The following pic clearly shows the relay and hidden fuse.

ry%3D400


6) I replaced the fuse and turned on the lights. Pop, went the fuse.

7) I replaced the fuse and disconnected one light. Pop.

8) I replaced the fuse and disconnected the other light, but connected the previously disconnected light. Pop. This tells me that I must have a short, as both lights are powered by the one blue wire coming from the relay.

9) I replaced the fuse and checked for voltage. 12 volts was present at the red wire, as expected.

10) I swatted more mosquitoes and noticed the light was fading fast. I determined the switch is good, relay is functioning, and wires have connectivity. I deduced that I either have a short someplace, or the 14 gauge wires are just not big enough to handle the load. My money is on a short.

Final: I will cut my connections to the lights and test for voltage again. If 12 volts are present, I will install one light at a time and see if that resolves the issue.

[end]
 
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One thing you can verify for me, however, is the location of the fog light relay. I see a relay mounted independently to the side of the power control module, and not inside it where I expected it. I do not believe this to be an aftermarket wiring job. Again, this is premature as I have not had a chance to trace wires and test for voltage. The relay says "Fog Light Relay" on top and the color of wires appear to be correct (red, yellow, purple, black,...).

While your fog lights may not be aftermarket, I would guess they were installed at the dealership as opposed to at the factory. If you had factory fog lights, the relay would be in the PDC. Looking at the PDC from the front of the vehicle, it should be in the first bank of relays (just behind the ATC fuses), second from the left. Right next to the A/C Compressor Clutch Relay.
 
While your fog lights may not be aftermarket, I would guess they were installed at the dealership as opposed to at the factory. If you had factory fog lights, the relay would be in the PDC. Looking at the PDC from the front of the vehicle, it should be in the first bank of relays (just behind the ATC fuses), second from the left. Right next to the A/C Compressor Clutch Relay.

You may be right about the dealer-installed lights. They did a good job with the switch wiring, if that is the case. I'd like to get my hands on that exact wire harness and switch assy for my kid's Jeep, but I'll prolly just fab one up with an aftermarket lighted switch and off-the-shelf 12v relay for his rig.

I need to hit Pick N Pull for a starter on Sunday, so I'l look for usable fuses, relays, and harnesses while I'm there.
 
So I'm outside this evening working on the never-ending driving light issue and one of my wheeling buds stops by. We start shooting the breeze talking Jeeps, his Moab trip, and other assorted junk, and I tell him how pissed I am at how long it has been taking for my bumper to arrive from JCR. Just about then a glorious UPS driver shows up and parks across the street. I give his truck a sideways glance but I'm still talking about my bumper. The driver pops out of his big brown truck and slams the roll-up door open. There, sitting at the rear of this magnificent Brown Santa Sleigh, is a artfully wrapped JCR bumper just waiting for me.

I start hollering and my bud is yelling and laughing and my neighbor starts in, and the Brown Santa just looks at us like we are a bunch of fools with nothing better to do. I won't argue that point. Anyway, I yell something like, "I love you Brown Santa" and that really ticked the guy off. He gives me a look as if he is going to pound me into oblivion, right where I stood. I grab the well formed hunk of man metal from him, still hooping and hollering like a damn fool, and lay it right in front of the Jeep.

ry%3D400


I quickly abandon the driving light project and rip open the packing materials. A quick trip to Ace hardware for primer and paint and I'm on to my new project of installing the JCR Offroad Stage IV non-winch bumper with 2" receiver, side protection, hoop, and light tabs. Oh what a spectacular day it is in Jeepland.

ry%3D400


After cleaning the bare metal with warm water and TSP, I primed the tie-in brackets and gave them a couple coats of Krylon satin black finish. Here they are hanging in my favorite parts tree in my courtyard.

ry%3D400


A few coats of primer on the bumper and it is ready for paint. I must say, the welds on this beast look great. I will need to take my grinder to one or two spots near the light tabs, but that's no problem. I live for man stuff like removing unwanted steel with a spinning grinder disk.

ry%3D400


The sun was going down fast as I got the first coat of paint applied. I will have to finish the job tomorrow or Friday. Either way, the bumper will be installed in time for my weekend wheeling plans. Rock on.

ry%3D400


[end]
 
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Wow, you sure didn't waste any time! I don't think I got either of my bumpers on in less than two weeks. Guess I get a little carried away with waiting between coats of paint. Oh and keep your eyes open, shortly after my parts tree grew a pair of bumper brackets, this sprouted! Gotta love them parts trees... :spin1:

100_7130.jpg
 
Is that your Super 44 you are waiting to install? That is one sexy axle. I may need to wait for my parts tree to grow a bit before sprouting something that big.
 
No, it's just my plain ol' XJ44. It's been under the Jeep for quite some time now in (mostly) stock configuration. The "Super" parts are the ARB and 33 spline Superior shafts I've got sitting in the garage. Been waiting on a buddy to help me with the gear install, but I'm just about ready to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it instead...
 
I was not about to play with gears so I had a local shop do it for me. I handed them my Ruff Stuff diff covers, a couple of cool coffee mugs from the office, and wished them the best. I was geared up the next day and happy as a clam. A tad broker, but happy nonetheless.

To date, that is the only XJ maintenance I have paid for.
 
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