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THANX, now what about locking hubs??

ParkCityXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Park City, Utah
Thanks for all the responses. It turns out my 55mph shimmy was the result of a broken front right u-joint. I found a very detailed step by step from ChiXJeff from a couple months ago so that should help. Any thoughts on installing locking hubs? Has anyone done it on a cherokee? Was it worth it or is it just a pain in the butt when you have to pull a "FORD" and climb out in the snow so you can pop it into 4?
 
It'll give you about 2 MPG savings. Allow you to repack your bearings after water crossings. Allow you to replace the bearings and NOT the entire expensive hub. Cuts some wear on the front drive train. Gives about an extra inch in stance due to the way it fits. Allows unlocking one front wheel if your running a hard locker up there, for those situations where your off camber and don't want it to cause you to slip sideways or make steering easier when you don't need the locker.
 
one of the best mods i've done
 
i believe people have tried and failed with ford ranger hubs... thats the only junkyard solution I have heard (other than swapping a CJ d30 knuckle)
 
I have them and they are great. I went with MileMarker. They are abit cheaper and I haven't had any problems in 2 years. Much better for maintenance and servicing. took me about a weekend because I machined the rotors my self. again weel worth it.
 
haligan said:
I have them and they are great. I went with MileMarker. They are abit cheaper and I haven't had any problems in 2 years. Much better for maintenance and servicing. took me about a weekend because I machined the rotors my self. again weel worth it.
i thought the MM kit doesnt work with ABS... i cant find it anywhere to verify that
anyone know?
 
I really dont know about the ABS. I dont think so. I didn't have it so it wasn't a concern with me.
 
None of the kits work with ABS. The ABS uses a tone ring that gets in the way when you do the conversion. You can make it work, but you would have to swap out the parts to convert it to a non-ABS model first. Kind of defeats the purpose of having ABS. Then again, I yanked the pos ABS out of mine :laugh3:
 
ashmanjeepxj said:
My front d60 was only $800 hub to hub...
and your point is... :laugh3:
Does your 60 have 5 on 4 1/2 to match the rear? nope
Does it weigh a TON? oh yeah
Does it kill ground clearance with less than 35s? yep!
Find a 60 that bolts in? (standard width, 4-link) probably not

Thare are MANY reasons why a moderate wheeler has NO need for a 60 in their XJ. The manual hubs were a great addition to mine, as I got rid of ALL front driveshaft vibes. I wasn't going to run bigger than 35s, I didn't want to change the rear bolt pattern, (i.e. new wheels and/or 2 spares) and I didn't need all that strength at the expense of LOTS more unsprung weight and MUCH less room under the pumpkin. Easy choice for me... :)

Now if I had a NEED to run 44s, possibly to make up for other "shortcomings"... :laugh3: :D :laugh: :laugh2: (j/k)

edit: Sorry. GW won today, and I'm in a great mood! :kissyou:
 
I've been thinking about doing a hub conversion, as I have a front locker. My question is how easy is it to break a hub, and how hard is it to replace it? It seems like it would be a lot easier to replace a broken hub (with a lifetime warranty) than replace an axle shaft or u-joint. Would the small hub act like a driveline "fuse" preventing more expensive breakage? I like my D30 as the wheeling around here is mostly mud, and a D60 makes a pretty good plow.
 
The Dana 30 hubs are REALLY easy to replace. Take the wheel off, and the hub pulls right off. I carry a spare with me when wheeling.
It's an awesome upgrade if you have an auto front locker, as the locker becomes a non-issue completely until you need it.
 
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