• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Stupid Red Top

Steve,

I’m sorry to hear you’ve been having trouble with your RedTop and I’d like to help. If you think your battery is gradually getting weaker, it’s a good idea to do some basic diagnostics, to try to locate the source of your problems. This video explains some basic battery and charging system diagnostics- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yPlx4MBNRU

Idling a vehicle or operating it at low speeds may not allow the alternator to replace the energy used to start a vehicle and can discharge any battery over time. I should also mention that our RedTop battery is not intended or warrantied for deep-cycling applications, including winching and welding.

Maintaining voltage of at least 12.4 volts in your battery will help extend battery life, regardless of brand. If any battery is allowed to sit for extended periods of time in a partially or fully-discharged state, it will begin to sulfate and battery performance will diminish accordingly.

Under normal circumstances, our batteries don’t require any special charging procedures and can be charged just like any other lead-acid or AGM battery. However, our batteries are not gel batteries, so charger settings for “gel” or “gel/AGM” should be avoided, as they will not fully-charge an Optima and could damage it over time.

Optima manufactures all of our own batteries in our own facility and we never re-spec or re-brand them for any retailer. WTF is correct regarding battery warranties and original purchase dates. Unless a manufacturer specifically offers a “lifetime” battery warranty, replacement warranty periods generally start from the original date of purchase and do not renew with subsequent exchanges. The person working behind the counter may not always handle this correctly, but this policy does prevent people from intentionally damaging their batteries and renewing warranties every few years, which would drive up the cost of batteries for everyone. Steve, please keep me updated on the status of your battery. Thanks!

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatterieshttp://www.facebook.com/optimabatteries

Jim
Thanks for your time and ideas. The Batt. is out of the jeep and on my bench as it has been for 3 days now. I was able to check voltage 3 times before leaving town (i'll be back Thurs afternoon). I cant recall the actually readings at this time but i have them written down so i'll post back up Thur evening. IIRC over 1.5 days it dropped like .5 volts or so...dont hold me to that, i'll have to look at my sheet.

I'll post back up and let you know
Again, Thanks for your input i'll keep you updated
 
First of all, it is nice to see someone from Optima is actively taking interest in their cutstomers issues / complaints. This is more than I have seen in the past and a step in the right direction. However i would like to challenge some otf the information provided.

....
Idling a vehicle or operating it at low speeds may not allow the alternator to replace the energy used to start a vehicle and can discharge any battery over time. I should also mention that our RedTop battery is not intended or warrantied for deep-cycling applications, including winching and welding.]

:huh: A vehicle with a properly operating charging/electrical system will maintain and charge a battery at idle under normal conditions. I will concede that running high draw accessories (stereo amps, winches, auxillary lights, etc) will drain a battery at idle.

...
Under normal circumstances, our batteries don’t require any special charging procedures and can be charged just like any other lead-acid or AGM battery. However, our batteries are not gel batteries, so charger settings for “gel” or “gel/AGM” should be avoided, as they will not fully-charge an Optima and could damage it over time.

Your You-Tube videos directly contradict this information... You specifically recomend battery chargers with AGM settings and there is an entire video related to special procedures for 'recovering a deeply dis-charged Optima'.

...
Optima manufactures all of our own batteries in our own facility and we never re-spec or re-brand them for any retailer. WTF is correct regarding battery warranties and original purchase dates. Unless a manufacturer specifically offers a “lifetime” battery warranty, replacement warranty periods generally start from the original date of purchase and do not renew with subsequent exchanges. The person working behind the counter may not always handle this correctly, but this policy does prevent people from intentionally damaging their batteries and renewing warranties every few years, which would drive up the cost of batteries for everyone.
...

This I take issue with: I find it pretty ridiculous that building a battery that will regularly last 3 years is going to 'drive up the costs' of your already premium priced product.

What your warranty says to me as a consumer is that Optima, a premium battery maker, can't manufacture a battery to consistently last 3 years. And in the real world, we are seeing this proven time and again. My recent experience has been that red tops were lasting 18-24 months. so under your 3 year warranty, I'll receive 2 batteries for my original purchase price (which happens to be ~ 2.5x the cost of a standard battery) and maybe get 4 years of service out of them. The cheapest batteries on the market will routinelty last 24-36 months; the economics of the Optima just arent there any more.... :confused:

I used to shell out a premium purchase price for Optima's because they were a great battery with a great warranty. Lately it seems they have transitioned to a low quality battery with an OK warranty at a premium price.


Your quality control has slipped and you desperately need to address it to regain the faith of enthusiasts like myself. A start would be honoring manufacture dates with regard to replacement, thus making a statement that you believe in the quality of your product...
 
Last edited:
WTF, even without running high draw accessories, repeatedly operating a vehicle at idle or low speeds can discharge a battery over time. I do photography work for car magazines and it’s fairly common for cars involved in feature shoots to have their battery die over the course of a shoot, as we often have the vehicles idling and changing positions while we move our equipment. Sometimes electric fans or fuel pumps are the culprit and other times, it’s just a battery that wasn’t fully-charged when we started.

Many folks think they are keeping the battery in their stored vehicle charged, by starting it every few weeks and letting it idle in their driveway. What they don’t realize is that the parasitic draw from the vehicle has already been discharging their battery while it sat in storage. They further discharged the battery by starting it and the time they let it idle in the driveway may not even replace the energy used to start it.

The typical key-off load for most vehicles is about 25 milliamps. If the key-off load exceeds 100 milliamps, there is an electrical issue that will eventually drain any stored battery, if it is not addressed. The electrical systems on many newer vehicles and lots of aftermarket accessories only amplify this situation. This BMW tech routinely deals with customers who have battery issues because most of their trips are less than 10 minutes or under three miles- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11211824&postcount=138

Our YouTube video for deeply-discharged batteries explains a technique that can be used in situations where batteries are deeply-discharged. In normal circumstances, batteries are not discharged below 10.5 volts and our batteries can be treated like normal flooded batteries. AGM-specific chargers are recommended as they often have additional features that will prevent overcharging, but regular chargers will work just fine on our batteries in normal situations.

If a battery does have a manufacturing defect, it is likely to manifest itself well within the timeframe of our three-year warranty. I believe JC Penney once offered lifetime warranties on their batteries, but they are now out of business. I don’t know that anyone else currently offers a lifetime battery warranty. Starting a warranty on the date of manufacture would also potentially penalize a customer, if they happen to buy a battery that’s been sitting on the shelf for a while. Under our current warranty structure, we still honor the warranty for a guy who is trying to sort out electrical issues in his vehicle and ends up going through three or four batteries of our batteries in a matter of weeks, but we’re not going to reward such mis-use, by extending their warranty with every return. I hope that helps clarify things, but if you have further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 
...The typical key-off load for most vehicles is about 25 milliamps. If the key-off load exceeds 100 milliamps, there is an electrical issue that will eventually drain any stored battery, if it is not addressed. The electrical systems on many newer vehicles and lots of aftermarket accessories only amplify this situation. This BMW tech routinely deals with customers who have battery issues because most of their trips are less than 10 minutes or under three miles- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11211824&postcount=138

Thanks for the link, I hadn't seen that thread on Pirate yet! (But, upon reading the entire thread, it really doesn't help your case here.) There seems to be the same sentiment there as well; there are 10 cases of 'my optimas have sucked lately' for every 1 'my Optimas are ok' case. As pointed out, it seems odd that my 'parasitic drains' are cured by replacing my red top with a starting battery that costs half as much as the Optima.

...

Our YouTube video for deeply-discharged batteries explains a technique that can be used in situations where batteries are deeply-discharged. In normal circumstances, batteries are not discharged below 10.5 volts and our batteries can be treated like normal flooded batteries. AGM-specific chargers are recommended as they often have additional features that will prevent overcharging, but regular chargers will work just fine on our batteries in normal situations.

Deeply discharged is the "normal circumstance" for a red-top that has been sitting for more than a week... :illedgalflipoffsmiley: :laugh:

...
If a battery does have a manufacturing defect, it is likely to manifest itself well within the timeframe of our three-year warranty. I believe JC Penney once offered lifetime warranties on their batteries, but they are now out of business. I don’t know that anyone else currently offers a lifetime battery warranty. Starting a warranty on the date of manufacture would also potentially penalize a customer, if they happen to buy a battery that’s been sitting on the shelf for a while. Under our current warranty structure, we still honor the warranty for a guy who is trying to sort out electrical issues in his vehicle and ends up going through three or four batteries of our batteries in a matter of weeks, but we’re not going to reward such mis-use, by extending their warranty with every return.


No, I meant warrantying the battery by the latter of Mfr date or purchase date. I'm going to state this as clearly as I can: The quality of your product is seriously questionable! You need to step up and stand behind your product. If Optima cannot make a $200 battery that will last for 36 months in 95% of cases, they should look for other products to make

...
I hope that helps clarify things, but if you have further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

Yeah, it's pretty clear that your job is to shift blame from a low quality product onto the user under the cover of 'customer misuse/abuse'.

We don't want to hear that your quality is and always has been at the same level, or, the red top isn't the right battery for the job but you should have no problem with a yellowtop, or how battery maintenance and diagnostics should be performed. We know that is all a bullshit cover and really not the primary issue here.

What we do want to hear: "Our quality control slipped a little bit and for this we are sorry. We are doing everything in our power to correct this and rebuild our reputation as the maker of the best battery in our class"
 
Last edited:
Ed put it right previously....I work for oriellys and found the AGM battery that he is talking about and it is a lot cheaper with a lot longer warranty and has the exact same build as an optima....if anyone needs one let me know and I can help with finding them 34/78extagm is the part number and they carry 3 year free replacement and 84 month prorate
 
WTF, I’m sorry our batteries don’t meet your expectations, but I cannot tell you things about them that just aren’t true. Our quality control has not slipped and the batteries we are producing today are the best we have ever made.

One of the most difficult messages I have for off-road enthusiasts is that RedTops are not appropriate for winching or deep-cycle applications. There are a lot of people, some of whom have forgotten more about cars than I’ll ever know, who are using the wrong battery for their application. When I go to racetracks, dragstrips or car shows and ask people why they chose the battery they did, there’s often little rhyme or reason. “It fit, it was cheaper, it looks good,” are all common responses, but not necessarily the best reasons for buying a battery.

The defect rate for any reputable battery manufacturer is surprisingly low and the vast majority of people never have problems with their batteries. Those folks are far less-inclined to wake up one morning and start singing the praises their battery, than the folks who have problems. No battery manufacturer releases sales figures, but it’s safe to say we sell a lot of batteries. Even if 99% of our customers are totally satisfied with our products, the other 1% might be a larger group than the total customer base of another brand. I understand all of that and a big part of what I do involves helping people who have problems with their batteries or questions about them. So if anyone has questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. Some of you have PM’d me and that’s fine too, I’m happy to help.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 
Jim,
Would a Higher Output alternator make any difference in the ability to maintain a battery while in the car? I'm assuming a high amp alternator would produce more amps at idle? But, doesn't the voltage regulator limit the volts to approx 14? If that's the case, would the high amp alternator make any difference in regards to battery charging?
Thanks for the info,
Andy

PS. I've owned 4 red tops(2 in the same Samurai, one in my first XJ, one in current Vibe GT), one yellow (current minivan cause it fit and was in the garage at the time) and one Blue top (current XJ), starting probably 10 years ago. The first Red top lasted 7 yrs w/extreme offroad abuse/use (no winching, but frequent driving on starter as well as being "deeply discharged" many times though). One subsequent redtop didn't impress as much. I've had no issues with the Blue or Yellow in current use (2-3yrs).
 
I would really like some actually facts and numbers from you OptimaJim. So far you have nothing firm supporting your case. On a stock vehicle (Jeep Cherokee) you have a 90 Amp alternator. The alternator will put out enough amps to lift the voltage to the regulated level usually somewhere around 14 volts regulated by the computer. You (OptimaJim) being a rep for Optima should be able to get ahold of some figures for us. A 90 amp alt produces how much power at 800RPM (a idling XJ)? How much power is normally used to start a vehicle? Take those numbers and see how long it will take for an idling vehicle to replenish the energy used to start it. I would then assume that on an normal day of 4 wheeling that the engine would at least average out to 1500RPM in a 4 hours span. Now with no after market products (stereos, winching, off road light) your are telling us that Chrysler engineers didnt design a charging system well enough to keep these rigs charged!? I find that hard to believe. At my last job we used GSA government vehicles. They spend hours of their life sitting on the ramp idling, running the AC or heaters full blast with the radios on and we NEVER had a vehicle die. Depending on what crew used them, some vehicles would run out to the flight line and shut down at each aircraft they worked on then start up and run 100ft to the next bird and shut off again. Thats how they have spent their whole life. And these vehicles are used 24/7! We NEVER had a vehicle die, Ford, Chevy or Dodge. So, I call shenanigans on your "photography work" explanation! What is "operating a vehicle at idle or low speeds can discharge a battery over time."? How much time? How much idling? In comparison to...? Low speed? You mean low RPM? 60mph in overdrive looking at 1800rpm vs. 15mph in 1st at 1800rpm? Same alternator output, two totally different speeds...

Maybe the "quality" issue isnt on Optimas factory end, maybe its the cheaper materials you are getting from your suppliers to cut back on overhead costs. Maybe something changed in production to cut overhead costs. This could be why we are getting the result of "they use to be good, what happened?". Why are they now, "the best we have ever made."? From reading different forums and doing Google searches, this dose not seem to be a 1% problem. Plenty of people are coming up with the same results. What is Optimas definition of "defect rate"? Defect being finish of the casing, ability to hold a charge off the shelf, leakage??? You said "Even if 99% of our customers are totally satisfied with our products". Id like to know what it actually is. I guess Id base that on the number of batteries sold vs. the number that you get returned by customers. Whats that percentage?

Id really like to know the facts on your end when you defend the company. Sell the product with cold hard FACTS. Dont try to side step the issue buy giving reasons with nothing to back them. And dont blaming the customer with misuses of your product when you clearly market you product to an enthusiast market. Shoot, Duralast markets there Gold series battery with "Duralast Gold is designed to meet or exceed your vehicle's original specifications. The perfect choice for harsh conditions or high mileage vehicles!". They come with a 3 year warranty and a 8 year prorate. Then you have Odyssey. They market in the same price category and claim a 8-12 year design life with a service life of up to 8 years! Optima, just 36 months...

I bought 1 red top in 05' (no after market accessories on the truck) and it only made it 2 years with normal city driving. In 07' I got a "normal" lead acid battery from Costco and Im still running it with long idle times and winching. Two things you say a red top cant do apparently. If a Gill lead acid battery can crank a Allison/Rolls Royce 250 turbine up for 40sec after sitting for a month and a half, whats Optimas problem with occasional winching? I was looking into a yellow top but I am seriously considering an Odyssey in the same price category now. Shoot, with the way this Costco battery has held up I may just spend waaay less less and get another one of them! Im only harping on you because I was going to purchase Optima to give it another chance but, the more I do my research the less I want to do business with you. Optima just isn't offering a product that is that far superior to others for the money anymore and you (OptimaJim) haven't brought anything to the table that has made me think any different. With a thread with over 450 views and a forum with almost 5000 active members, I would think a rep for a company would be trying harder to set the record strait. Sell us your battery!

Aaron
 
Last edited:
WTF, I’m sorry our batteries don’t meet your expectations, but I cannot tell you things about them that just aren’t true. Our quality control has not slipped and the batteries we are producing today are the best we have ever made.

One of the most difficult messages I have for off-road enthusiasts is that RedTops are not appropriate for winching or deep-cycle applications. There are a lot of people, some of whom have forgotten more about cars than I’ll ever know, who are using the wrong battery for their application. When I go to racetracks, dragstrips or car shows and ask people why they chose the battery they did, there’s often little rhyme or reason. “It fit, it was cheaper, it looks good,” are all common responses, but not necessarily the best reasons for buying a battery.

The defect rate for any reputable battery manufacturer is surprisingly low and the vast majority of people never have problems with their batteries. Those folks are far less-inclined to wake up one morning and start singing the praises their battery, than the folks who have problems. No battery manufacturer releases sales figures, but it’s safe to say we sell a lot of batteries. Even if 99% of our customers are totally satisfied with our products, the other 1% might be a larger group than the total customer base of another brand. I understand all of that and a big part of what I do involves helping people who have problems with their batteries or questions about them. So if anyone has questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. Some of you have PM’d me and that’s fine too, I’m happy to help.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries

OptimaJim, I am in the same boat as redneck, can we see some data to back up the claims.

It's obvious that our/my perception is that shortly after the aquisition of Gylling AB and more so in the last few years the performance of the batteries has declined.

I am curious to know.

What is the failure rate of the Optima batteries, by year, over the last 9 years (2000 to 2009)? And what percentage of those failures are customer neglect vs product defect?

Also you elude a very high customer satisfaction, 99%. Please correct me if I am wrong in my assumptions. That is a very bold statement, even the most admired companies is the world have a hard time reaching a 90% CSAT. I fully understand it’s hard to satisfy all your customers, and that negatively impacted consumers speak louder than the people that are happy with the product. But at the same time when the negative comments are publicly displayed it’s common for Very Satisfied customers to dispute those claims. They may not initiate the discussion about a products performance but they sure will “set someone strait” when it’s appropriate.

I used to be this person with Optima, but not so much anymore.
 
I would really like some actually facts and numbers from you OptimaJim. Blah Blah Blah..........Blah...... Sell us your battery!

Aaron

Dude, what are you, stuck in a hotel room for a week, or maybe a month??:twak::moon::looser::viking:
 
and what about cops? ive seen some cops sit in their "camping" spots for hours on there laptops at night with their lights on and radio on all at idle and their batteries sure arent dead
 
I think it should say enough that Optima has to employ someone to police the nets for this type of thing.
 
I'll have all my facts posted about my red top issues by Thurs evening/Fri morning. If you're confused, i started this thread...read the first post...if ya want.

enjoy
 
Hi Andy, alternators aren’t really my specialty, so I spoke to some folks who deal with them on a regular basis for more insight into the high-amp units. An alternator specialist would be able to provide the best information for your specific application, because there can be a lot of factors for a specific application, beyond the rpm range, materials used, wire gauge, delta vs. wye windings or both, etc... High output alternators can produce more amps at idle, but part of their output depends on their design and some can be designed specifically for low rpm use, but an alternator specialist really is the best person to ask about your specific needs. Voltage regulators can vary, but a typical range is approximately 13.7-14.7 volts.

redneck, automotive engineers generally design products like alternators, for a broad range of uses. They expect most will be used in daily drivers, but do design some degree of flexibility for more demanding applications. At some point, the demands of a specific application may exceed the capabilities of their original design, which is where the aftermarket often enters the picture. In some specific applications, the factory will incorporate specific upgrades for parts that will see demanding use, such as police packages. GM’s B4C police packages in the early-1990s included 105-amp alternators. By 1994, they upgraded to 140-amp alternators. The Ford Interceptor packages have been using 200-amp alternators since 2004 and their 2011 units will be equipped with 220-amp alternators.

These constant upgrades are a response to the increasing presence and demands of modern electronics in these vehicles. Even with LED light bars, most squad cars now have onboard video and computer systems and they can often spend up to 18 hours per day at idle. Even with these upgraded alternators, failure is not uncommon and the two departments I spoke to indicated they replace alternators in squad car units anywhere from 3-4 times during the life cycle of a car to as often as once a year. I’m glad the vehicles in your previous job didn’t run into mechanical difficulties and it’s quite possible that they were ordered and equipped with higher-output alternators, to handle the unique demands placed upon them.

The SAE cold amp output rating of Jeeps has varied over the years between 37-78 amps and that number tends to decrease as a vehicle is warmed up. Even a high-output alternator listed at 270 amps, may only have an output of 150-160 amps at 800 rpm, so a stock alternator rated at 90 amps could see a similar decline in that rpm range.

The vehicles I photograph tend to be street cars capable of running low-11s or quicker and the quicker they are, the less reliable they are on shoots. Most of these guys (particularly the late-model Mustang guys) view their alternators as horsepower-robbing accessories and will under-drive stock units. Few maintain their batteries when their vehicles aren’t being driven (which isn’t regularly), so they often show up at a shoot at less than a full state of charge. Pan-blur shots are generally done at less than 30 mph and as quietly as possible and front and rear ¾ shots are all stationary. If the car doesn’t shake too much at idle, we can leave the engine running. If the cam is too lopey, we may have to shut it down and re-start it every time we re-position the car or camera. Some cars can only handle 20-30 minutes of this, some last for an hour or more.

Other examples could include a guy at a car show, who decides to cruise around the fairgrounds with his stereo and air-conditioning both at full-blast, only to find out his car won’t start at the end of the day. A Jeep-specific example could be a guy who spent the day on the trails, parked his Jeep at the trailhead at the end of the day, then started it to load it on the trailer, started it again to unload it and put it away for a few weeks at less than a full state of charge with no battery maintainer. Even a small parasitic drain can further discharge the battery and sulfation begins to become an issue. As this cycle gets repeated over time, the battery’s performance and lifespan diminishes.

The conversations you see about our batteries on the Internet, both good and bad, are a reflection of the volume of batteries we sell. No battery manufacturer releases production numbers or defect rates, but Optima does follow industry standards. If releasing that information becomes standard practice, I’m sure they’ll follow suit. P1atinum, I apologize for any confusion regarding the hypothetical statement I made previously, in an attempt to illustrate the relationship between the number of batteries we sell and the amount of feedback on the Internet regarding our batteries. I should have stressed the "even if"

Interstate Batteries is one of our retail partners and has over 200,000 locations. Some battery manufacturers would have a hard time even supplying each of those retailers with just one battery. That doesn’t even begin to take into account the thousands of auto parts stores and retailers like Costco and Wal-Mart, who all stock our batteries.

Optima tends to be a fairly conservative company, in terms of what we promise or promote out of our batteries. We don’t try to confuse our customers with proprietary battery ratings, we just stick with BCI standards, which allow consumers to compare apples to apples. We have run extensive fleet testing in demanding conditions, which allows us to claim our batteries will last up to twice as long as conventional batteries. If a battery has a defect from the factory, it will likely manifest itself well within the first three years of ownership, which is covered under our warranty.

We’ve eliminated pro-ration, to simplify the warranty process for both retailers and consumers and our warranties aren’t loaded with specific exclusions for things like batteries that have been discharged below 10 volts. While some companies choose to simply exclude warranty coverage in these situations, Optima has elected to take a pro-active approach in informing consumers about proper battery maintenance and appropriate applications. We now have a series of videos on YouTube that help explain these things. We also have people like me, trying to assist people who have questions or concerns about their batteries. If I don't come off as a salesman, it's because that's not my job.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 
Just to clarify my position: I'm not just out to slam Optima; if I didn't believe that the company ever made a quality product, I would not be running a 6+yr old red top in my daily driver- the car I count on to get me to and from work, count on when thousands of miles from home, or start after being parked at the airport for weeks - you get the point...

All I ever wanted/expected was to get the same experience from the same product, purchased a few years later...

...
The conversations you see about our batteries on the Internet, both good and bad, are a reflection of the volume of batteries we sell. No battery manufacturer releases production numbers or defect rates, but Optima does follow industry standards. If releasing that information becomes standard practice, I’m sure they’ll follow suit. ..."[/B]

That is exactly the point I've been trying to make to you. Your claims that you sell far more batteries than other manufacturers seems to make a statement that you feel your product is superior. An Industry leader doesn't just "follow suit". ('following suit' looks like the company that became the proverbial 'king of the hill' and then got lazy/greedy and forgot what got them to the top)

If you indeed have a superior product, the numbers will speak for themselves, and there should be no harm in releasing the stats.


...

We’ve eliminated pro-ration, to simplify the warranty process for both retailers and consumers ...

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries

Which takes us back to my original post, If my first Optima battery fails in less then 3 years, which according to your claims puts me in an infintely small percentage of Optima customers, then why wouldn't you warranty that replacement to last 3 years?! (As you claim the odds of one person having 2 of your awesome, superior product fail within warranty period are almost zero... :rolleyes: )
 
Last edited:
WTF, please understand when I reference the volume of batteries we sell, I am not doing so to claim our batteries are superior for that reason or that someone else makes a poor product, just because they don’t sell very many batteries. I’m simply trying to help folks understand the sheer volume of Optima batteries on the market and how that translates into more conversations about our batteries in general. Most of our customers don’t care about the millions of batteries we’ve already sold to other people. Their primary concern is the batteries they are buying from us for their own vehicle. Some of those folks might be swayed by a fast-food tag line about the millions we’ve already served, but most would rather know that we’ve done extensive testing on our batteries and found they can last up to twice as long as a traditional flooded battery.

As for the replacement warranty, as I mentioned previously, what you are asking for is essentially a lifetime battery warranty and the last retailer I heard of, who offered such a warranty is now out of business. We offer a three-year free replacement warranty on RedTops and YellowTops, because we believe a manufacturing or design defect will manifest itself well within that timeframe. Such defects usually occur within the first few weeks, so those folks will have lost a few weeks on their three-year warranty with a replacement battery. What is more often the case on warranty claims, is that someone has a bad alternator or some other electrical issue or is simply not using their battery properly.

Just last week, an Interstate dealer on this board indicated 90% of the batteries returned to him under warranty are not defective and are re-sold as used batteries- http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244900846&postcount=38
We are willing to take the hit for those folks for three years, but at some point, they need to take a closer look at their application and ask themselves if there might be something else going on. We hope most don’t wait three years to get to that point.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 
Sorry people i've been slacking in getting my "results" posted. FYI, i had a problem with my red top rapidly discharging. i've had it on the bench and i've been testing with my DVM for the past...well almost 3 weeks. I promise i'll post up on when i get back in town.

Also.....i'll admit, it appears to be on my end NOT optima's end.
i'll post the true voltage reading W/ the Red Top on the bench and NOT in the XJ ASAP.....sorry been busy with work, which is a good thing.
 
interesting...I just bought a Red Top yesterday
 
Back
Top