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stuck ball joint

nfletche

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indiana
Anyone have any ideas on getting a lower ball joint out that's stuck? I know that some people use a torch to heat the knuckle up, but I don't have a torch.

I do have a press rented at the moment. I was able to get the top one out without much trouble just by putting a lot of pressure on it and then knocking it loose with a hammer. Worked great, besides the fact that it came out in two pieces instead of one... If the stud is that loose in the housing that it falls out, that's a sign that it really was probably a good idea to replace it, right??

This bottom one just will not move. This may sound stupid, but is there normally one of those retaining rings on the lower ball joint? it doesn't look like it to me, but I'm just trying to figure out a reason why this bottom one won't budge.

Any advice on the best way to get this out? I guess maybe I just need more pressure on it? And...just to make sure I've got it right, I do want to push the lower one DOWN so it goes out the bottom, correct?

Thanks a lot. I'm new at fixing things on my Jeep and am trying to get into it more. I know little to nothing about car repairs, but I've decided to try to tackle things myself...a sense of pride, I guess. So I'm really sorry if I am repeating old posts, but I really did search.
 
are you pushing it down or up? i had a friend screw with one all day cuz he was trying to press it up and they go down. DOWN

there are adapters for 4x4s that make those things a hell of a lot easier and simple.
they angle the press because you ball joints are all weird.
 
Thanks...yes, I am pushing down. I'm following a Youtube video that some guy made that seems to be pretty good. found the link somewhere on here as I was searching earlier... I was pretty sure the upper went up and the lower went down. Good to have verification.

I did also rent the 4x4 adapter...helped a lot on the upper

good to know at least that I'm going the right way. I think maybe I just need a better breaker bar or a cheater bar for my ratchet... maybe that extra leverage would help??

thanks a lot
 
Late model D30, shouldn't have retainers.

When you've got pressure on the balljoint press, smack the iron around the balljoint with a small sledgehammer at 90 degrees.
 
Thanks, didn't think it had a retainer by looking at it, but it was honestly so dirty and rusted and corroded I couldn't tell for sure.
 
Late model D30, shouldn't have retainers.

When you've got pressure on the balljoint press, smack the iron around the balljoint with a small sledgehammer at 90 degrees.


and ok, I tried that method, didn't work, but I guess it may just take more time.

Probably didn't help that I was doing this in the dark with a flashlight in my driveway last night. I will just try harder today after work.

Thanks!
 
Use a bigger hammer to whack it like Jeff said. Has worked for me every time and I've done some pretty rusted-in balljoints in my time. I usually use a 3 pounder, a few good solid hits pops em out.
 
Use a bigger hammer to whack it like Jeff said. Has worked for me every time and I've done some pretty rusted-in balljoints in my time. I usually use a 3 pounder, a few good solid hits pops em out.


Yeah, sounds like I just didn't hit it hard enough. Didn't want to do any damage to anything, but I guess it's hard to damage that knuckle...I'm here in southern Indiana so it has a good deal of rust everywhere, and with 180,000 on the original ball joints I guess it's just gonna take some effort

thanks a lot, good to know it worked for your rusted in joints
 
heat.

mapp gas torch for about 2 minutes before you smack it with a hammer.

pops out everytime.
 
So if I were to go that route and use a torch to heat it up, which I've never done before, is there any risk of the PB Blaster I soaked it with catching fire?

Sorry if that's a stupid question, I just get nervous thinking about a huge open flame right under my engine bay...
 
yes, it will burn.

It won't be a big fireball though. I do it all the time to get stuck brake rotors off.

Don't go crazy with the heat, it's a cast part, but for the most part you're not going to hurt it with a MAPP or Propane torch. Just don't go getting out the oxy/acet stuff.
 
yes, it will burn.

It won't be a big fireball though. I do it all the time to get stuck brake rotors off.

Don't go crazy with the heat, it's a cast part, but for the most part you're not going to hurt it with a MAPP or Propane torch. Just don't go getting out the oxy/acet stuff.


Sounds good...I guess I'll have to try to buy a torch now.

Thanks
 
So if I were to go that route and use a torch to heat it up, which I've never done before, is there any risk of the PB Blaster I soaked it with catching fire?

Sorry if that's a stupid question, I just get nervous thinking about a huge open flame right under my engine bay...

Definitely one of the best tools you'll own for an old crusty jeep. And it's not a huge open flame. More so just a small pointy flame that is easy to control.
 
Thanks everyone for the help!

So I ended up going out yesterday in the daylight and it took me about two minutes. I guess that says a lot for not trying to do this repair in the dark with a flashlight! The hammer did the trick, no torch needed, but I will definitely get a torch for any future repairs.

Turns out I didn't have the stud lined up with the hole in the bottom of the press, so there really wasn't anywhere for it to go.
The old one was so rusted out. To say it had a lot of play in it would be the understatement of the year. Pieces of metal had sheared off of the stud, and the housing was trash. The stud looks like it could have separated at any point. This was beyond unsafe.

So thanks again for the input. For someone that has essentially zero mechanical knowledge and even less experience, I have been able to tackle a relatively big job (I guess...at least it seemed that way to me) on my own and am now a lot more comfortable with doing things on my own. Thanks a lot to everyone who responded!
 
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