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strange noises

going from the front of the engine to the back rocker #1 no, #2 yes, #3 no, #4 no, #5 yes, #6 no, #7 no, #8 yes, #9 no, #10 no, #11 no, and #12 yes. If the lifters are stuck is there a method to free them up without removing the head?
 
Thanks for stealing my thread by the way :p. Anyway installed my new bearings and up and actually running pretty good now. Not to bad to install with the engine in the vehicle. buffed some small scores off the crank shaft with emery cloth. Installed a Melling high flow oil pump. I am sold on the high flow pump highly reccommended for all XJ's. Going to wait until those new bearings break in some. Then its time for my head rebuild.
 
dvlfsh9 said:
going from the front of the engine to the back rocker #1 no, #2 yes, #3 no, #4 no, #5 yes, #6 no, #7 no, #8 yes, #9 no, #10 no, #11 no, and #12 yes. If the lifters are stuck is there a method to free them up without removing the head?
Click to expand...

Before going any further I'd add the maximum recommended amount of Sea Foam to the crankcase and run it for a few hundred miles to see if it will free up your lifters. Before doing that I'd change the oil and replace it with some cheap 5W20 or even 0W20 then add the Sea Foam.
 
One more question. Any possible way this ticking is from carbon build up on the valves? Thinking about running a seafoam treatment. I know for sure its not lifters. Someone said something about worn valve guides anyone care to elaborate?
 
Noise is loud is pretty loud continues to do it for quite a while after shut down. Its not the exhaust manifold or anything else I have isolated it to the valve train.

Wi-fi is so slow sometimes processing on YouTube. The other reason I have been wondering about carbon build up. I did some work to CCV that was totally clogged off by carbon. Ran compression test a while back strong compression. When I pulled off valve cover had a lot of carbon on springs.

Heres the link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fz07j35_K9k
 
Pretty sure I have eliminated lifters, Push Rods, Rockers, Great Oil Pressure. Leaves me with carbon build up on valves, Valves, Springs, Or Guides?
 
I listened to the video and I gotta say, never heard anything like that before.
Very very strange indeed.

It only does this when the engine is hot right ?

Sounds like something is cooking off when hot.

Are you using any antifreeze ?

How's your plug's look ?
 
Ignition system is all pretty new major tune up about 10k ago. Antifreeze uh yes. No it will do it cold. I can get it to do it just turning it over by hand. Gets louder and takes longer to stop ticking after I shut it down when its hot. Can not even hear it with engine running. Unless you get the rpms way up 3500-4000.
 
Maybe your lifters are collapsing and that's the sound you hear.

Just grasping at straws here.

I think you were right about lifters making this noise.

What else would make this noise when cold and turning by hand ?

Maybe try a heavier weight oil.
 
Last edited:
Definatly not lifters just had the lower end apart to put in new bearings. Felt the lifters from the bottom while the upper end was ticking. Can not feel the tick in the lifters. Just the Push Rods, Rockers, and Valve Springs. Feels strongest at the valve springs. I pretty much know I am going to have to tear into the head unless its carbon build up on the valves, or a problem with rockers, or push rods. Probably going to do the decarb the upper end and hope for the best. If that doesn't help I may throw some push rods and rockers at it, and if that doesn't help head is coming off for a rebuild. I will make sure I put in new lifters at that time, but I am 100% sure it is not lifter tick.
 
What I really want is someone who has experienced this noise before, and hopefully fixed it. "You can't always get what you want" :)
 
I want to hear it with the motor running. Or it only ticks after shut down? My 89 does that tick after shut down, kinda sounds like an electrical arc sound a SNAP sound.
 
I'm with dobesrgrt.

Just so we have an understanding - the lifters are a hydraulic design (not solid tappet) and have a spring, and piston, and retaining ring, and bleed holes, etc. inside of each?

I'm thinking the lifter pistons are binding and bleed oil randomly at shut down.

The reason why you cannot feel anything from below is because the lifters
are pressed up against the cam and are prevented from movement until the
engine is rotating.

Oil purging out of the lifters is causing the pushrods and springs to settle; and you seem
to be able to feel that.

I would prescribe Seafoam, or Rislone, and drive it around for a week or more to try
to dissolve any sludge buildup and free the lifters up.
 
[FONT=&quot]
I know you said that you’re 100% positive that the ticking is not coming from your lifters, but why not try the Sea Foam treatment in the crankcase. For less than 10 bucks, what do you have to lose?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The only thing that bothers me about the sticking valves/lifters diagnosis is I heard way more than 12 clicks (two lifters per cylinder) or 24 if all of your valves and all of your lifters are sticking. And, if your valves are not seating properly you should have a rough idle.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Here’s something that I think you should do. Using a vacuum gauge attached to the vacuum line from the brake booster start and run the engine at idle. If either your valves are sticking in their guides or your lifter plungers are sticking you will get a very erratic reading on the gauge. If your valves are not seating properly the needle on the gauge will bounce around. The reading on the gauge should be steady and read between 18-22 in/Hg. http://www.cdxetextbook.com/toolsEquip/hpt/measuring/vacgauge.html. If you have an erratic reading and the Sea Foam treatment doesn’t work you might try this:[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]REMOVAL[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]1. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Remove the valve cover.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]2. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Remove the capscrews at each bridge and pivot assembly. Alternately loosen the capscrews one turn at a time to avoid damaging the bridges.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]3. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Check for rocker arm bridges which are causing misalignment of the rocker arm to valve tip area.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]4. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Remove the bridges, pivots and corresponding pairs of rocker arms. Place them on a bench in the same order as removed.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]5. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Look for any cracked valve springs.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]6. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Remove the push rods and place them on a bench in the same order as removed.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]7. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Check the ends of the push rods for wear, and rod straightness.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]8. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Look through the pushrods to see if they are clear. Spray Gumout through them, regardless.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]9. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Reinstall the pushrods in their original locations then spray Gumout through the holes to flood the lifters and let it work for 30-60 minutes.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]10. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Pull up on the pushrods to drain them. If you have access to compressed air blow air through the pushrods to blow out any pooled Gumout from the tappet plunger cap seat.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
INSTALLATION[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]1. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with engine oil or assembly lube, and install push rods in their original locations. Ensure that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in the tappet plunger cap seat.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]2. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Using engine oil or assembly lube, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge above each cylinder in their originally position.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]3. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Loosely install the capscrews through each bridge.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]4. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alternately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the bridge. Tighten the capscrews to (21 ft. lbs.) torque.[/FONT]
 [FONT=&quot]5. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Install the valve cover.[/FONT]

 [FONT=&quot]Get back to us if you solve this problem…it’s weird.[/FONT]
 
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