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Stock VS' Aftermarket shafts...Experiences

I've become VERY fast at changing them though :D

No but seriously it's a pain to keep doing this. I just figured you read all the time about guys wheeling their junk and not having an issue for X amount of years. Not in my experience.

I'm never the only one to break when we go out but I agree, I don't want to be "that guy". I've got some decisions to make I guess.
The more often you pull the hubs, the easier they come out!

Also, it seems like it would be really painful to get an aftermarket shaft swapped on, but hey, some people are into that kind of thing.
 
I'm running Longfield birfs and love em' If you are gonna polish a turd, put a brilliant shine on it with a pair of these:D


Axle before install

P1020210.jpg


After install
P1020282.jpg


Some "easy trail" fun for your entertainment
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/...2010/?action=view&current=Jonatmirrortree.flv
 
Yep, you were the other guy I knew of.

That's one shinny turd :D I like it.

Nice video too. Gotta love how our stupid mirrors put dents in the doors lol. My doors don't even open right now though. hehe
 
Stock knuckles, i run stock steering with a Big Daddy tie rod and i carry spare everything including the draglink. I have no bumpsteer and have never bent or broken any steering components yet. My welds are fugly but they will hold just fine, I have complete confidence in my own fab work.

The specs are;

Yukon 4.88's
Aussie Locker
Home made truss out of 2"x4"x3/16 box
Lower control arm skids are stock XJ leaf spring U-bolt plates
Longfield shafts
 
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I'm sure it works fine just takes away from the bling some with all those boogers on it like that. I like the spring plate skid idea.
 
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Stock knuckles, i run stock steering with a Big Daddy tie rod and i carry spare everything including the draglink. I have no bumpsteer and have never bent or broken any steering components yet. My welds are fugly but they will hold just fine, I have complete confidence in my own fab work.

School Me on this Big Daddy Tie Rod..... where do you get it from?:greensmok
 
There are a few things to consider that have been discussed:

- Terrain: this guy wheels with us up in the Northeast. Less binding up and more shock loading which is harsher on gearsets rather than shafts.

- 297 joints: doesn't sound like this guy is actually breaking the shaft itself YET. Sounds like he is popping crappy joints which in turn take out the ears of the shaft. This is something that annoys me ALL the time. People say they "blew a shaft" when in reality they popped a cap which led the trunion ripping the ear of the yoke off the shaft.

Also, something most people overlook:

- Full case vs. stock carrier: The stock D30 carrier is JUNK. End of story. Drop the following setup in your D30 and you're flirting with disaster:
Yukon 4.88's
Aussie Locker
Longfield shafts

4.88s with an aussie locker (stock carrier) and longfield shafts are just ASKING for trouble if you wheel HARD. I'm sure if you just enjoy trails with not a lot of throttle then I doubt you will have a problem, but I've witnessed multiple stock D30 carriers (and my own personal one) that flex under load and take out the gearset.

To the OP, I'd start with using full circle snaprings along with x760s in stock shafts and see what happens. If you continue popping the shafts, then I would definitely get 27-spline alloys assuming you have a full case locker. If you don't, then it's up to you. My advice ends there :)
 
MoparManiac;244937166 - [B said:
297 joints:[/B] doesn't sound like this guy is actually breaking the shaft itself YET. Sounds like he is popping crappy joints which in turn take out the ears of the shaft. This is something that annoys me ALL the time. People say they "blew a shaft" when in reality they popped a cap which led the trunion ripping the ear of the yoke off the shaft.

The first joint snapped the trunion. The caps were still in place, with the snap rings. The second one, who knows. I could have been the trunion or it could have been the cap. Either way the problem was the joints. Not the shafts.

I've started the chromo shaft fund and in the mean time I'll run 760's with full circle clips. Thanks for the advice.
 
4.88s with an aussie locker (stock carrier) and longfield shafts are just ASKING for trouble if you wheel HARD. I'm sure if you just enjoy trails with not a lot of throttle then I doubt you will have a problem, but I've witnessed multiple stock D30 carriers (and my own personal one) that flex under load and take out the gearset.

I agree, I thought about this AFTER I bought the Aussie:( I will be going to a full case Detroit when money will allow. Until then, I'm easy on the throttle:explosion
 
I'm well on my way to giving my D30 a high polished shine.

ARB locker
RCV shafts
4.56 gears
brand new unit bearings
LCA skids
Ruff Stuff Cover

I think I've got everything I need now to keep it together with 35's. Only running 32's now and only ran one RCV on the trail so far lol. With both of them in there now, the turning feel is wonderful. Can't wait to abuse them on the rocks.


Funny story, I've run lots of hard trails including blacks at Rausch Creek, Oak Ridge, and Snowshoe Mtn and had no problems with u-joints. Even DD'd my Jeep during those times and never had an axle issue.
I finally bought a set of RCV shafts and when I went to install them, the boots didn't fit correctly so I had to get another updated set fro RCV. I got them the day before I went wheeling at BigDogs for their members only run, so I didn't have time to put em in. After the first day, I checked the joints and noticed I had cracked two caps on the driver's side, so I installed the RCV shaft and new unit bearing that night at the campsite. After the second day and even harder trails (went up Corum and down ET...), we were about to leave on our way home when I found the passenger side u-joint had two broken caps. I actually drove home and to work the next two days before replacing the shaft.
But long story short, I wheeled for 2 years on the stock shafts with no issues, then broke both the week after I bought RCV's.
 
I'm well on my way to giving my D30 a high polished shine.

ARB locker
RCV shafts
4.56 gears
brand new unit bearings
LCA skids
Ruff Stuff Cover

I think I've got everything I need now to keep it together with 35's. Only running 32's now and only ran one RCV on the trail so far lol. With both of them in there now, the turning feel is wonderful. Can't wait to abuse them on the rocks.


Funny story, I've run lots of hard trails including blacks at Rausch Creek, Oak Ridge, and Snowshoe Mtn and had no problems with u-joints. Even DD'd my Jeep during those times and never had an axle issue.
I finally bought a set of RCV shafts and when I went to install them, the boots didn't fit correctly so I had to get another updated set fro RCV. I got them the day before I went wheeling at BigDogs for their members only run, so I didn't have time to put em in. After the first day, I checked the joints and noticed I had cracked two caps on the driver's side, so I installed the RCV shaft and new unit bearing that night at the campsite. After the second day and even harder trails (went up Corum and down ET...), we were about to leave on our way home when I found the passenger side u-joint had two broken caps. I actually drove home and to work the next two days before replacing the shaft.
But long story short, I wheeled for 2 years on the stock shafts with no issues, then broke both the week after I bought RCV's.

Thats another good point about the RCV's(Longfields) no binding at all in the joint while turning and they are as strong at full lock as they are straight line.

Good story on the stock shafts! I welded my caps on the stock shafts and ran them for years without issues. They are on another local wheelers XJ now and still going strong on a locked D-30.
 
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