Steering wheel off after wheeling

[BenXJCA]

Its a Rustys adjustable trackbar. With the poly eye in both ends of it. the bolts are very tight. Im not denying that there might be slop in the diameter of the hole that the bolts go through. I'll check it out.
Thanks.
Any other ideas?
What is the horrible cluck when I have the wheels at full lock and hit a bump or when im going into a drive way?

 

[BenXJCA]

Anyone?

 

[Goatman]

I've determined that my drag link is bent. It's bent right above where the tie rod attaches to it. Does this affect the toe?
Today while driving into a rather steep driveway I had the steering wheel at full right lock and when I proceeded into the drive way I heard a loud clunk on the right side. what was the clunk? But now my steering wheel is back to the straight ahead while going straight ahead. WTF is going on? Anyone, anyone?
Enlighten me please.
TIA

Mine used to do this all the time, and I've talked to plenty of others who have had the same experinece. The steering wheel is off after wheeling and it eventually goes back to being straight. I don't have a conclusive answer, but I believe it's caused by the track bar mount moving slightly on the frame, and/or the frame actually warping a little from the force of wheeling (twisting) and gradually going back.......theory, mind you. I think it most likly that the mount was moving slightly on the frame. I always had a heck of a time keeping the bolts on the track bar frame mount tight, so I welded it to the frame on the inside seam. It still popped after awhile, so I welded it on the outside of the frame. Now the frame mount bolts don't come loose any more, it doesn't pop any more, and the steering wheel doesn't get off center after a wheeling trip any more.

The wheel will be off center if the drag link bends, but if it's straight, I'd go for the track bar frame mount. First make sure the bolts are always tight, but if you regularly wheel hard, weld the SOB.