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I've also heard the cleaning story but I think it has more to do with the different seal technologies used in the various vehicles on the road. Seems that some don't mind and others do.
Like I said earlier, I've transfused many high mileage vehicles with no problems at all.
Let's keep this thread alive with feedback after going back to a blend or straight dino.
Bought a 2000 Cherokee with 136,000 miles on it. Changed to Synthetic and it started leaking out the o-ring on the oil filter adapter and the valve cover gasket. Changed back and within 200 miles it has almost stopped leaking.
Bought a 2000 Cherokee with 136,000 miles on it. Changed to Synthetic and it started leaking out the o-ring on the oil filter adapter and the valve cover gasket. Changed back and within 200 miles it has almost stopped leaking.
I'd agree. It is showing you need to replace them in the very near future. With what I just went through, Once the rear main starts leaking, it gets steadily worse as time goes by. If it's not all over your back window like I was getting, you have some time but seriously, don't let it go too long. Will give you piece of mind knowing it isn't leaking.
Only leak I get is a small amount as I still have to change my o-rings [next oil change that will be done] and I unfortunately get blowby, most likely because of the heap sitting for 3yrs. Eventually down the road that will have to be done.
Thats how I see it. My oil pan gasket is an intermittent leak, but the rear main is gradually getting worse. I really don't mind they've started leaking. Gotta replace one to replace the other, so I can get em both in one day, and its two less things I have to worry about down the road when I head off to college.
I dont think its so much of an issue if your oil pan gasket has a tiny leak. Thats something you can pretty easily replace next time you do an oil change...same goes for the tranny. But with something like say your "head gaskets" where one small leak can cause the entire gasket to litterally disintegrate...well...bad stuff. Happened on my old Dakota. I added some additive to the oil that was supposed to clean things out and it did...cleaned it out so well it caused a hole in my head gasket on one side. When I revved the engine one day it blew out the gasket from all the pressure and I started getting water from my radiator into the engine and out my tailpipe. Had I not used that additive it would have been fine. Old vehicle with lots of miles and an engine not made to have water in it. After I did all the repairs...it still didnt run like it used to.
seems to be a lot a differents opinions on the matter, as I see it, the old and high milage engines, are more at risk to start leaking, so the other needed Q?
any body have any comments or feed back on the mix blends.
are they any good?
Like I said in my previuos message, my engine is over 235k with no leaks, I sure want to keep it like this for a little more.
Concerning synthetic gear oil for AX trannys and differentials, I recently drained fairly new Castrol 75W gear oil from my AX-15 (1990) and rear Dana35 and replaced with RedLine 75W90 synthetic gear oil. Major improvement in gearbox: it shifts easy, synchros work, no more feeling 2nd and 3rd gears, and the rear differentail is quieter at speeds above 40 MPH. In my expereince, the RedLine oil is worth the $8/qt. For those with later AX trannys that require GL-3 gear oil, RedLine makes MTL and MT-90.
I removed 3 quarts of the Mobil1 last weekend from 2000 XJ and replaced it with 3 quarts of Valvoline dino oil. Drove it for a day and no more leak at the rear main.
I shined a flash light into the oil fill opening of the valve cover and it looks brand new in there (116K miles). This and the fact that the leaking stopped soon after re-introducing the dino oil makes me think it's not a cleaning issue.
If the engine uses any oil between chnages I will replace with some of the Mobil1 that was removed. Next change I will try 4 quarts synthetic and 2 Valvoline.....maybe it just needs to be weened over to the synthetic.
I had nearly 200,000 on my origanal, changing oil every 3,000.
My friend who was the service manager at a Jeep dealer put in a mopar reman engine and stronly suggested I NOT use Fram for a filter. He said when they crush them down, they crush a lot more than other filters. I baught a case of Mopar filters, but I also got a deal on them too. On my 05 Dodge Cummins, I use FleetGuard, maker of the Mopar filter (for the Cummins that is).
I use regular oil, but I still change every 3,000.
Isnt FRAM like the generic brand that everybody uses though? So with that in mind they WOULD crush a lot more of them than any other because they are more widely used. Not sure if I would consider that a good thing or a bad. Im not too worried about oil filters...they all do thier jobs.
Concensus seems to be though that FRAM filters cause a lot of problems with oil pressure, namely there not being enough. I've been using NAPA gold fliters, and since switching from the FRAM ones, I do notice much better oil pressure.
Isnt FRAM like the generic brand that everybody uses though? So with that in mind they WOULD crush a lot more of them than any other because they are more widely used.
I meant when in the machine, they crush down smaller physically. He said they don't have as much media or material inside as compared to some of the other brands. Sorry, didn't word that correctly.
Concerning synthetic gear oil for AX trannys and differentials, I recently drained fairly new Castrol 75W gear oil from my AX-15 (1990) and rear Dana35 and replaced with RedLine 75W90 synthetic gear oil. Major improvement in gearbox: it shifts easy, synchros work, no more feeling 2nd and 3rd gears, and the rear differentail is quieter at speeds above 40 MPH. In my expereince, the RedLine oil is worth the $8/qt. For those with later AX trannys that require GL-3 gear oil, RedLine makes MTL and MT-90.
Thought anyone following this thread mught be interested......
Sent off this note to Mobil regarding the rear main seal leaking after introducing the Mobil-1 10-30 product.
Jay in MA
==============
Hi, I'm a big proponent of Mobil-1 and have transfused many high mileage cars with no problem whatsoever....however...I had my first incidence of leakage after switching from dino oil to synthetic. I just bought a 2000 Cherokee with 116K miles....immaculate inside the engine. The previous owner did 3K changes from new using dino. It didn't leak a bit until the Mobil1 10-30 was installed. Next day it was spewing from the rear main. I drained out 3 quarts and refilled with 3 quarts of Valvoline 10-30 dino. The leak stopped. I will add Mobil-1 as it uses oil and watch for leaks. Next full change will get 4 quarts Mobil-1 and 2 quarts Valvoline dino and see what happens.
It's the first time this has happened to me and I was somewhat skeptical because I had never experienced the leaking phenomenon, but know that it's possible because the guys on the Jeep Cherokee site have discussed it in the past.
I was curious what your thoughts are on this vehicle...apparently the Jeep 4.0 doesn't like the stuff. Do I need to ween it over to the Mobil-1 product??
From Mobil-1 myth page
Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.
Reality: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and OEM tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.
From Mobil.....
Mobil1 motor oils are API certified so they must meet and pass all the
same engine seal and gasket compatability requirements just like a
conventional motor oil. Mobil1 flows 6-7 times faster than conventional
motor oils so it will reach areas of your engine that are not being
lubricated by conventional motor oils thus the leakage with Mobil1
because your gasket either has cracks, shrunk, hardened or have pinholes
in them. I do not think the leak will ever stop with Mobil1 unless you
have the gasket repaired.
update: changed the oil the other day back to some regular dino oil and the leak was still there. not as bad as before, but still there. right now i put some maxlife stop leak in it until i can get over to my buddies house to use his two post lift. holiday times sure are draining the wallet.
