Sprintex supercharger Kits for SALE.

[rav]

I am pretty sure it would fit so long as you were not using the stock air box. The Sprintex kit was designed around keeping the factory air box and the M90 is about an inch or so taller / thicker than the Sprintex compressor. You would need to find someone to manufacture an adapter plate to go from the Sprintex mount to the M90 mount. (I know someone interested in the same thing and the resources to create it.. ) You would also need an adapter from the M90 intake to the throttle body, which is quite different depending on the M90 variant.

Thanks a lot!!

 

[SolarBell]

Thanks a lot!!

Don't thank me, I've had an excellent teacher as of late.

 

[bjoehandley]

Damn, wish I had that kinda scratch handy!

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

If memory serves (Senility you know...) the opening in the Sprintex compressor intake manifold is around 65mm or possibly 66mm in size. I do remember that it did not take much to open it up to the 68mm needed when I bolted on the F&B throttle body.

I can state, with authority, that replacing the stock TB with a 68mm (70mm will work but gains not one bloody bit of performance) will allow the compressor to fully breathe. It added near enough to 2 pounds of boost here at altitude. See my thread on the subject.

I fed this information back to Sprintex (we have a development deal) and they confirmed it. The reason a replacement TB is not included was to keep the cost of the kit to a minimum. It was felt, by the marketing dudes, that the price point would inhibit sales if the TB was included.

So then. IMO an 68mm TB is needed to maximize the potential of the system. A 4.0L equipped with this kit should make 9.5 pounds of boost at sea level with a 68mm TB installed. The amount of boost developed in engines greater than 4 litres will be less. It's a physics thing.

The other option to consider is a 54mm pulley for the compressor. This not only raises the maximum RPM of the compressor, it brings it into the "sweet" spot of performance at a lower engine speed.

To install the 54mm pulley, a spacer that is 0.062" (1.57mm) thick needs must be made (or purchased, Sprintex offers them) and installed to bring the belt back into alignment. Also, the holding bolt needs be either replaced or shortened. I shortened the bolt in my installation.

I speak from direct experience here.

The level of performance gained will depend upon many factors. I can not in good conscience recommend installing any form of Forced Induction onto an engine that is in less than very good condition.

There are people, out in the world, that will tell you whatever it is you want to hear. That you can add FI to anything. While that is technically true, installing FI on a marginal engine will just hasten it's demise.

In terms of performance and ease of installation, this kit is hard to beat. A person with good mechanical and electrical skills can have it up and running in a few hours. From there, it will take a bit of time to tune.

 

[Alexia]

I may be limited to around 6 PSI anyway if I want to run 93 octane with the motor at 9.94 SCR/8.67 DCR. Granted, most of that will be found out through testing. This is just a guess at maximum PSI based on calculations.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Good. My purpose is not to discourage, but to be completely transparent. Personally, I have a great deal of faith in the setup. But as the case with every thing, there are practical limits.

IMO, 6# boost on a stroker will yield amazing performance. It is estimated that a 4.6L with 6# boost will give up 350Hp.

Should be inetresting...

 

[Alexia]

Good. My purpose is not to discourage, but to be completely transparent. Personally, I have a great deal of faith in the setup. But as the case with every thing, there are practical limits.

IMO, 6# boost on a stroker will yield amazing performance. It is estimated that a 4.6L with 6# boost will give up 350Hp.

Should be inetresting...

Yep, 350 horsepower is my realistic target. I am going to shoot for higher without going past 93 octane.

Assuming this is going to show up at the office tomorrow. Maybe if I get off my butt and finish putting the truck together tonight I will take it home in it.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

If you do not already have a wideband O2 sensor and an AFR gauge installed, you will want to consider installing one. IMO, it is near to impossible to tune the mixture without. There are many out there, I use the AEM 30-4100 version with the sensor installed just downstream from the factory sensor. It is in a near vertical orientation so as to get out of the way of the front drive shaft.

Easy-Peasy.

 

[Alexia]

The packaging consisted of four walls of inch thick foam and a white bath towel covering the supercharger.

Besides the sketchy packaging why do they have white bath towels laying around their office? XD

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Yah. The "kits" are, all 50 of them, prototypes. As such, not much effort was spent in the packaging.

Why a towel is anyone's guess. They did not come from Oz that way...

Owing to the lack of interest at the time, the plans for the production packaging as well as the "real" kits were shelved. It is really a shame as the castings are on a par with, or better than, the Jeep parts that get replaced.

Who knows, maybe I can convince Sprintex to make another run. There would need to be standing orders though. If there is enough interest here, I can ask the powers that be how many would need to be pre-ordered.

Maybe it was just too soon for the kits to be released.

Also, it did not help that Rick Rimmer was the North American Distributor. Folk walked away as soon as they heard his name. But he is completely out of the Sprintex business and has been for well over a year.

Funny "coincidence" about his getting sacked, the Wrangler kits took off big time right after he was out.

An "amazing" coincidence. OK, no it's not...

 

[bjoehandley]

Any word on Sprintex doing one of their blowers for the Pentastar Jeeps?

Would be interesting to see one strapped to a 200 or Avenger:firedevil

 

[Alexia]

Yah. The "kits" are, all 50 of them, prototypes. As such, not much effort was spent in the packaging.

Why a towel is anyone's guess. They did not come from Oz that way...

Would you happen to have a packing parts list available? I am substituting their TJ installation manual as a guide, but of course since that reuses the stock manifold that leaves a little bit of mystery as to what parts should be there in the XJ kit. Waiting to see if Sprintex gets back to me.

 

[SolarBell]

Paging O-Gauge.. He's put in at least 2 of them.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

4 actually...

As far as I am aware, there was not a formal packing list included as these were (are) prototype units.

What should (at the least) be there is:
1) Compressor with intake manifold fitted.
2) Discharge manifold to fit between the compressor and the Jeep.
3) Cast aluminium Idler Pulley Bracket. Replaces the stock steel unit.
4) Short piece of blue Silicon Hose to connect the Compressor intake manifold to the discharge manifold via the bypass valve.
5) Hose clamps for the Silicon Hose.

That is all that is really required. There may be some exhaust wrap included, do not use it, install a header blanket instead. Works better and will not cause the header to crack.

A note on Headers.
This system will not accept aftermarket performance Headers with the exception of the Gibson 6 into 1 unit. The system was designed around the stock exhaust manifold. Usually, the number 2 cylinder primary pipe on the aftermarket units hits the Sprintex manifold.

Another note.
I had to add a port into the compressor's intake manifold as my '98 had one more connection than was provided. What I had to make room for was the IAT sensor. Now, you can mount that sensor in the line from the air filter instead. I am just picky... Ask SolarBell.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6XDNT_PQfg

This ^ shows what must be in the kit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy0eyIFZ6bU

This ^ is the typical performance of a 4 litre. This video was shot here, at altitude. Performance at sea level will be much better. Also, this installation had a stock TB and the stock air box on it. choke, choke, choke...

The original installation manual was online on the Boostec web site. Now that Rimmer is Verboten, the instructions have been lost.

As an Oh By The Way, I can high the PCM's speed limiter (118mph) in a remarkably short time. silly thing was continuing to pull when it bounced off the limiter...

Another 'nother note. If I remember it right, the opening at the TB is 66mm. I do remember that it took very little to open it up to take my 68mm TB.

Alexia, contact me back channel and I will give you my home email. Then you can send a photo of what you have and I can advise better from there.

I can and will help.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

OK. More then...

There is a replacement fuel line and the bridge piece for the linkages. And a small metal piece that supports the Sprintex manifold at the engine mount. Some small hardware is also in the kit. And a new belt... At the least.

In my installation, I found that the bridge had gotten tweaked in shipping which caused the CC cable to hold the throttle open changing the idle. The fix, if needed, is to give the bridge a slight tap to move it towards the TB.

Remove the fan belt and save.
Remove the stock fuel line and save.
Remove the stock intake manifold and save.
Install larger injectors to the Sprintex manifold.
Remove the stock belt idler bracket and save.
Install the new idler bracket. Use the stock idler pulley and hardware.

I suggest that a new manifold gasket be installed at this point. CLEAN THE MATING SURFACE!!!!!!!! I scrapped mine with a razor blade...

Install the Sprintex manifold to the cylinder head.
Connect the fuel line to the fuel rail.
Install the small support piece. I chose to slot one of the holes in the piece to ease the installation to the engine mount.

Install the compressor.
Install the TB.
Connect the linkage.
Install the new belt.

It goes without saying here that all of the protective plastic must be removed and discarded. But I will say it anyway as I was present on an installation where the plastic had been left on the compressor discharge port and surprise! The engine refused to start....

Fire the engine and start the tune, be conservative at first as you can destroy the engine with too much spark. Use the "one degree per pound of boost" rule in the ignition table to retard the spark. Jeep in mind the it will detonate )pig) long before you can hear it. I used a knock detector to tune.

I would share my map but I run the F/IC8 the the files are not compatible. Plus the injector size selected changes the fuel map greatly...

Hope this helps!