Spraying Enamel?

[Super mud]

Wondering how enamel paints lay down and take clear for painting the xj. Rustoleum has an almond gloss color in quarts that would look nice for my 87 to redo the factory paint. It's pretty bad so I figure anything will look better than whats on there now but would like to make sure it last decent and doesn't fade with weathering. So that also ask what clear I should use over it if any thats not breaking the bank. Anybody paint theirs like this either?

 

[MAY POP]

Rust-Opeum is ok to spray though it needs to dry a long time. It will need to be thinned to spray it. Mineral spirits works well. Adding a catalyst or hardner is What I do when I want GREAT results. The hardner comes from Valspar at Tractor Supply. Give thought to there products also as a good option. None of these gets a clear coat after the 3rd coat.Mostly I use these products for frames axles and bumpers. Works nice and not to expensive.
Ron

 

[WB9YZU]

I use Xylol to cut Rustoleum and XO-Rust paints. Perhaps that is why it is taking forever to dry? I have painted many vehicles this way, but the paint job starts to fade after about a year in.

Why not use the paint code for the vehicle an go down and buy a color matching acrylic paint from the body shop store?

The formulas available are "one step", in that you don't need to clear coat the result to get the look. As Ron posted, use hardener to stiffen up the result and make it scratch resistant.

 

[2stix]

Rustoleum uses a fish oil (shark oil i believe) in their paint which gives it its rust preventivenes. (is that a word?). which makes it nearly imposible to cover with anything other than a rustoleum product. you might be able to use their clear, but i have never tried. as mentioned, you would be better off getting a good quality paint from your local automotive paint supply house and spraying it on. it will last many times longer, and with proper prep work will be even more rust resistant. ask the the guy at the counter what he would recommend in your price range. there are many single stage paints that are not expensive, and if you want to clear it get a 2 stage and buy a good strong clear coat and it will last a good long time.

 

[tbburg]

Rustoleum is actually a pretty high-quality paint. Also, when you compare the price of enamel and "automotive quality" paint, there is a minor price advantage.(1/4 to 1/100 the cost?)

There's an advantage to the "one step" paints on an off-road vehicle you want to keep looking nice. You can buff out the scratches. No clear coat to burn through.

Land rover put a thick single stage paint on the Defenders for just that purpose.

 

[Vanimal]

if you're going to spray it, just spend a little more money on a single stage auto paint. it's relatively cheap, and it wont fade nearly as fast. plus chemicals wont attack it as badly if you get gas, brake fluid, carb cleaner, etc on it. what's an extra $100 when it comes to a paint job?

 

[DanMan2k06]

I painted my wheels for about $200 in supplies....... And I have enough to do about 4 more sets

 

[bails85]

I went to sherwin Williams automotive and for a nice single stage paint it was around 120 bucks for the material. A gallon of paint plus the additives would have given me about a a gallon and a half of useable paint. More than enough for an xj. I tried the rustolem paint and it looked like a garage spray job. Plus the rustolem was about 60 bucks a gallon. And once you use it there's no turning back.

 

[2stix]

Bails85 is correct. once you use rustoleum, you cannot successfully cover it with anything other than. use an automotive paint. single stages can be cheap and expensive. but neither get a clear coat. i have heard from some that they tried useing rustoleums clear over rustoleums paint and it bubbled right up. dont try it. there are some very strong catalyst type single stage paints at your automotive paint store that is amazingly strong. very scratch resistant. if you can find some old IMRON paint, that stuff is amazing.

 

[Vanimal]

i think i used a urethane enamel single stage on my lathe and it not only looked awesome, but it takes A LOT of abuse. hot metal chips flying at it constantly, along with oil and grime. i got sherwin williams house brand.

 

[2stix]

that came out nice man. i like the color for the machine. speaking of which, nice machine too. i have been wanting to upgrade my old craftsman/atlas 6 inch swing to a craftsman/atlas 12 swing. just cant seem to find one in my price range. looks like you only use yours dry, no oil catcher?

 

[Vanimal]

that came out nice man. i like the color for the machine. speaking of which, nice machine too. i have been wanting to upgrade my old craftsman/atlas 6 inch swing to a craftsman/atlas 12 swing. just cant seem to find one in my price range. looks like you only use yours dry, no oil catcher?

thanks! i'm actually planning on buying a bit bigger one for the shop and putting this one in the house with a piece of glass on the top as a table in my entry way

i had a 12 inch swing craftsman/atlas that i got from someone recently, just sold it. neat little machines. pretty cheap too, relatively speaking.

i run this one dry because i have a fully enclosed cnc lathe next to it. this one is just for onesie twosies.

 

[2stix]

nice. what did you get for the craftsman/atlas?

 

[Vanimal]

600, but it was in really good shape and had lots of stuff with it, and it was on a nice cabinet. i see them all the time for a few hundred bucks.


if you can find one, get the clausing version of the craftsman lathe, it has much better ways.

 

[Milford Cubicle II]

i think i used a urethane enamel single stage on my lathe and it not only looked awesome, but it takes A LOT of abuse. hot metal chips flying at it constantly, along with oil and grime. i got sherwin williams house brand.

Good Lord, how long did it take you to tape everything off??

Looks good though :thumbup:

 

[Vanimal]

it was completely dissasembled. i dont recall a lot of taping.
the biggest pain in the ass was the filler they used for the castings. it was pine tar with iron dust. you cant paint over it without lead paint, and body filler wouldnt stick to it. basically had to strip it bare, which took FOR EVER. then refill the casting with modern body filler, which was also a pain in the ass. 100 year old castings arent that pretty.
and thanks!