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spicer joint failure

another dumb question......its has to be welded in doesnt it?

nothing has to be welded in. i mean, you could, but then when the driveshaft rotates you will start breaking stuff. its like welding your ujoints to the ujoint caps...
 
its really not all that hard to figure out. just start with the 4 caps in the center "cage" and press both ujoints a little at a time one direction, take both caps off, then press them a little at a time the other direction, take both caps off, then the ujoint that attaches to the transfer case will be able to come out with the yoke that has the centering ball and needle bearings (dont lose them), the spring will usually stay inside of a nipple located on the part that is welded to the driveshaft. then you can press the 2 caps out of the yoke that is welded to the driveshaft to get that joint out, then reverse for re-assembly. just be sure when you go back together with it that all the needles in the centering ball stay in place. if you have any mechanical inclination at all you will see what i m talking about when you tear into it. a balljoint/ujoint press helps TONS!
 
Ok since the yoke is welded to the shaft will I need part 607 or part 617? Will I have to weld in part 607 in place of the one that is stock on the shaft?
 
Or if you have the money.... Buy a replacement drive shaft from the parts store that has a lifetime warranty. Then you don't have to worry bout taking it apart and messing with it. Happens again or anything else happens you can just replace it under warranty. lol. That's what I ended up doing as I had the same issue on my 89'.
 
driveshafts shops will rebuild your whole DS with new centering assembly and 3 new u-joints, and balance it for 100-150 bucks. worth it if you dont have a solid workbench and press.
 
i go to the junkyard, spend $30 and get a good shaft that i bolt in.
 
Ok since the yoke is welded to the shaft will I need part 607 or part 617? Will I have to weld in part 607 in place of the one that is stock on the shaft?

There is no welding required! Go look at your drive shaft and you will see where part 607 is.
like i have said multiple times in this thread, 607 is a replacment yoke with a grease zerk and includes the ball and spring kit, 617 is just the ball and spring rebuild kit. The advantage of getting 607 is you can keep it greased!
 
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Ok since the yoke is welded to the shaft will I need part 607 or part 617? Will I have to weld in part 607 in place of the one that is stock on the shaft?
the yoke you are looking at doesnt have to be welded in. no welding has to be done. 607 is the whole yoke, 617 is the seal kit. the yoke that comes with 607 DOES NOT WELD IN. you wont have to cut anything. just take it apart, and look at it, look at diagrams online. its REALLY not that hard.
 
Or if you have the money.... Buy a replacement drive shaft from the parts store that has a lifetime warranty. Then you don't have to worry bout taking it apart and messing with it. Happens again or anything else happens you can just replace it under warranty. lol. That's what I ended up doing as I had the same issue on my 89'.

If I learn how to do this myself I won't need a warranty. I'm just a chicken shit when it comes to first time jobs. I always assume Its going to be harder than it is.
 
driveshafts shops will rebuild your whole DS with new centering assembly and 3 new u-joints, and balance it for 100-150 bucks. worth it if you dont have a solid workbench and press.

150 is the starting price here in ca. And most of the prices I have got are more like 250
 
I had the same issue, bought all the parts to rebuild the shaft and when I got it back together, it was binding like crazy. Must have taken it apart 3 different times and it still wouldn't rotate correctly. I hate those damn double cardan joints.

Bought a stock driveshaft from a junkyard and it's been working perfectly for over a year.
 
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