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Soft ride coils

No, they are recommended for at least 4" lift for 2 reasons: 1) At 2" your control arm angles are still pretty good. 2) With DB you "lose" about 4" ground clearance because they extend down about 4". Your 4+ inches of lift height will make this bearable.
 
Check these out

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X_LAK

I'm running these long arms and they clear the LCA mount so I can put it back to stock, or change to whatever set up I want.

Am I missing something here or does this only include the passenger side control arm???


Kit Includes:
1 Passenger side lower control arm.
1 Iron-Y radius arm that connects to the upper and lower axle mounts.
3 piece high clearance, steel subframe assembly with built in optional transfer case drop
All required hardware.
Installation instructions.
 
its a 3 link system. Look at the Pic. One upper arm that is attached to the lower. and one single lower.
 
OK, so with DB's I loose 4 inches at the rear LCA mount but I lifted it 5 so I will be 1 inch over stock. Witch one LA's or DB's rides best and will resist the DW the most? Witch set up would you like to see the most if you were looking at a used XJ? I have seen the 3 link and it probably flexes mor than I would ever need. I leaves one side unsupported on the top and, I think, might not be as controlled at fwy speeds although I am sure there are many that have no problem.
 
OP, you have your options:

factory short arms < DBs < LAs (radius arms < 4 link)

thats pretty much the order when it comes to control arm setup. i left out the 3 link because well, thats another debate and i have little/no input.

IMO, unless you got a killer deal you spent too much on the adjustable JKS arms to begin with. for the price of adjustable lowers/uppers and DBs your in the ball park of LA. my opinion stands, buy long arms and be done with it, and you can resell your quality components to recover the costs.

but spend your money as you wish.
 
Thank you all. I think I know where I am headed, LA's. But I need a breather for a few weeks or so. I am a little weary of it right now. At least there is light at the end of the tunnel, just hope it's not the train.
 
I have the IRO long arm set up on my DD with 5.5" and 35's. Rides just like a stock cherokee, nothing funning from the 3 link set up. Had it on a little over a year and a half. Best deal i could find for a long arm.
 
I have the IRO long arm set up on my DD with 5.5" and 35's. Rides just like a stock cherokee, nothing funning from the 3 link set up. Had it on a little over a year and a half. Best deal i could find for a long arm.

You got the RE6200?? What do you have to change other than the CA's to run the 3 link IRO setup?
 
The only thing I'm not understanding is how to adjust the caster. It says it has 7.5* of adjustability, but with it being a 3 link, and only having the adjustment on one side, how do you adjust individual caster on both sides???


"No adjustment is necessary in any part except for our unique caster adjustment bracket that allows 7.5° of adjustability; plenty for any lift height from 4.5-8"!! "
 
The kit doesn't allow you to run different cast side to side. You set the overall caster and go. When I was researching the kit before I bought it I had read that a worn upper mount bushing can result in some brake steer and I notice a little bit of that when I put it into 4WD and set on the gas hard. The fix is to replace the upper rubber bushing with a heim joint. I've got one sitting in a box waiting for me to get enough time to do it. Going from 4.5" lift on short arms to the LA and 5.5" was a world of difference though. Couldn't beleive how much better the ride became.
 
its a 3 link system. Look at the Pic. One upper arm that is attached to the lower. and one single lower.

That is not a 3-link.Its still a radius arm set-up.Rockrawler would be a 3-link!
 
OK, so with DB's I loose 4 inches at the rear LCA mount but I lifted it 5 so I will be 1 inch over stock. Witch one LA's or DB's rides best and will resist the DW the most? Witch set up would you like to see the most if you were looking at a used XJ? I have seen the 3 link and it probably flexes mor than I would ever need. I leaves one side unsupported on the top and, I think, might not be as controlled at fwy speeds although I am sure there are many that have no problem.

I ran both db and long arms and surprisingly the drop brackets were smoother but the clearance loss sucked (perfectly horiztonal stock control arms with rubber bushings make a big difference). I banged those brackets on everything. They are better suited for 33"+ tires.

You are correct that once you go long arm, you don't go back, but once you go long arms, you never WANT to go back anyways. :)

What angle is your rear shackle. Rough riding xj's are often contributed to steep control arm angles and lousy shackle angles. Fix those two and you'll fix your ride. I had long arms installed and it still rode like a dump truck until i fixed the rear shackle angle and voila, caddy ride.
 
My rear shackle angle is, from the body mount down, at a little past 6 o'clock, not straight up and down but not far from it. It is grease-able and 1.5 longer than stock to add .75 lift. If it was pointing farther back it might be better but it is headed in the right direction. Has anyone ever regretted going with LA's ? What would be the reason? What if a LA had clevite bushing at the body end? Might ride better. I know it might not flex as much but SA's have them and seem to do OK.
 
My rear shackle angle is, from the body mount down, at a little past 6 o'clock, not straight up and down but not far from it. It is grease-able and 1.5 longer than stock to add .75 lift. If it was pointing farther back it might be better but it is headed in the right direction. Has anyone ever regretted going with LA's ? What would be the reason? What if a LA had clevite bushing at the body end? Might ride better. I know it might not flex as much but SA's have them and seem to do OK.

You need some kind of flex joint in the LA's or you'll get binding and tear off control arm brackets. If you want the best possible ride, grab a long arm kit with flex joints and rubber bushings.
 
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