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Slipping Lock right locker

So your tolerances are balanced now from side to side and top to bottom, within say .005? If so good, but you shouldn't really need to add extra thrust washers, I guess we'll see then. Good luck with it.
 
hey i got a chrysler 8.25 and have had similar symptoms, especialy not locking in reverse. Which i know that when i got it, it always locked in reverse. I have replaced the springs once with some improvement, but has continued to stop working. I havnt checked any clearance specs but i do know that when rotating tired back and fourth to see the inner workings the center pin seems to have a lot of play, along with it just totally not wanting to stay locked when thrown back wards direction. Mine is a powertrax no slip.
 
hey i got a chrysler 8.25 and have had similar symptoms, especialy not locking in reverse. Which i know that when i got it, it always locked in reverse. I have replaced the springs once with some improvement, but has continued to stop working. I havnt checked any clearance specs but i do know that when rotating tired back and fourth to see the inner workings the center pin seems to have a lot of play, along with it just totally not wanting to stay locked when thrown back wards direction. Mine is a powertrax no slip.
I would start by replacing any/all worn parts (center pin, carrier, bearings, races) then start over taking your tolerance readings and following testing procedures as per install manual and go from there. Any worn parts will have a negative effect on the lockers operation.
 
I would start by replacing any/all worn parts (center pin, carrier, bearings, races) then start over taking your tolerance readings and following testing procedures as per install manual and go from there. Any worn parts will have a negative effect on the lockers operation.
I agree. If your center pin is worn it won't force the teeth of the locker coupler together. Maybe pull your center pin and see if its worn. Next check to make sure the locker was assembled right. There are some components inside that force the teeth together that may be worn. Keep us posted, maybe take some photos and post them. That seems to help narrow things down.
 
Mine is doing the same thing, I'm going to replace it with a real locker I think.
I would try turning your couplers around so that they are facing the other way. Not sure how better to explain that! Take the center section out and turn it around. Then check your tolerances. That really saved me a lot of money doing that. I want to install ARB's but that would mean spending more money on two lockers then I spent on my XJ and my donor XJ together! But it would be nice!
 
I plan on doing a regear soon to 4.88 In the spring. New bearings/seals will come then. Perhaps maybe a new full case ARB or OX locker. Might as well save the hasel of doing it twice.
 
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