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Slip yoke engagement length need advice ASAP

I have a longer driveshaft

It was given to me by Ron Stevick, he was using it on his 231/AX15 5speed with a rear 44, @ like 8-9" before he did a SYE.

It's very beefy compared to the stocker, but at 32.5", it's too long for my setup (AW4/231/D44 @ 6") and I'll be glad to bring it for ya...needs UJs or just reuse the ones you have in there now.

Lemme know via email or PM before say 4pm today and it's coming with. I don't know if I'll spot an answer here before I head out.
 
Following up on what Eagle said, the extra clearance of the YJ yoke is needed for you lift height. The picture you posted may be "a longer 242" yoke, but it doesn't look it it has the deeper clearance of the YJ yoke. My stocker had clearance problems drooping from 4". I don't see how you could possibly run a stock yoke at 8".
 
how about doing a 2" case drop. and depending on rear axle swap around drive shafts. remember a 8.25 or d44 has a pinion 1" longer than that of a 35c, so if you really wanted to you could use a d35 shaft with your 8.25/d44 rear for an extra inch of shaft.

but on to reality, why not go wheel close to home (when i say wheel i mean wheel, not rock pose for pictures and shit)and see how bad or good your junk does with no sye before you drive 4k miles to find out your drive shaft is too short on the first vechicle testing obstacle, that is unless you dont have a major catastrophy on the way out there because of the slip yokes stress on the output bearing.

Hunter-done many stupid things but would never consider drving at highway speeds for 1.5 days solid at 8" of lift w/ a stock driveline
 
Hunter-Lynchburg said:
how about doing a 2" case drop.

a 2" case drop? :eek:
 
Beezil said:
YJ slip yokes are a little longer, but this is the first time I've ever heard that 242 sy's are longer than 231 sy's of the same year.....

I was interested so I checked my scrap pile.....

just so happens I have a 231 yoke from a 95, and a 242 yoke from an 88.....

they're the same length.

Thats odd...I spoke to Tom Woods, Rustys, and RE when inquiring about the yoke, all of them told me the same thing. In fact when I asked why there are no longer yokes for the 242, they told me its becasue the 242 has the longer yoke already. Guess its just another Jeep irregularity, some go it some dont.

XJguy
 
KY Chris said:
This thread hurts my brain. Seriously.

KY,

You need to sip from the majic Nalgene bottle. Sprinkle in a little Pixie Dust, and your brain will stop hurting.

Medicine Man
 
From the tip of the yoke to the middle of the u-joint on the opposite side, my shaft is 34.5". That sound normal?

XJguy
 
Flowers said:
KY,

You need to sip from the majic Nalgene bottle. Sprinkle in a little Pixie Dust, and your brain will stop hurting.

Medicine Man

Going to see Keller Williams tonite and tomorrow. Nalgene will be sipped.
 
XJguy said:
dsc00100.jpg


XJguy [/B]

The shiny part of your yoke indicates the part of the yoke that is engaged(roughly) at maximum plunge. Less than half, that's scary. At static height, you can probably see some of the shiny part exposed. This means that much less that half is engaged. I've never heard or read of a guideline, but I'd guess that 1 1/2 times the diameter should be the minimum engagement. Keep in mind that the difference between the standard and "long" yokes is only 5/16".

The only reason to change yokes is for clearance and once again, it also doesn't look like a high clearance yoke.

Hard on the brakes and that baby's going to turn into a poll vault.
Any droop at all and you'll hear about it.
 
Nope. Static height, empty gas tank, no interior......no shiny part showing, its in there so that nothihg shiny at all is exposed...and this is with a brand new suspension, I would imagine I will see some settling not to mention once eveything is in (including the cage I am installing right now) it will settle even further.

The actual shaft is 31.5" long thats from tip of yoke to tip of yoke.

So I have about half the yoke in the t-case...should I get an inch added?

XJguy
 
The rear driveshaft for the Manual tranny XJs are approximately 1" longer than for auto tranny XJs, so that would be a cheap way to get more length... BUT if you really don't have any of that shiny part showing at ride height you better leave it, you wouldn't want to bottom it out. YJ yokes are nice, they only give a little more length (less than .5") but have better clearance on them so the yokes don't hit.


On another note, I have a friend who has an XJ lifted 9.5 inches with an auto and a D44, which means he has the shortest factory driveshaft possible, and he has no SYE. His pinion is pointed straight at the T-case with no SYE, just a YJ yoke. He has no vibes and has many thousand miles on it of street and trail with no problems. I have no idea why it works, because I understand that it shouldn't; but I can't argue with success. He (nor I) can justify spending $500 on an SYE and shaft when a junkyard 231 can be had for $50.

I understand that an SYE is the "right" way to do it, but many of us poor college kids with under $2k into our trucks simply can't shell out $500.

Brett (8" MJ, no SYE and doin just dandy, actually drove it across the country last month)
 
Well, looks like I will be leaving well enough alone. As a safety I will be adding in some sort of driveshaft loop, that way at least I dont pole vault the whole Jeep should the worst case scenario occur.

XJguy
 
KY Chris said:
Going to see Keller Williams tonite and tomorrow. Nalgene will be sipped.

No Shit!!! Maybe I should skip Moab and just come to KY instead. I should check his site. Maybe he'll be rolling through Illinois soon.


Flowers
 
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