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Shift issues

output speed sensor and input speed sensor. The 98-01 setup also changes from the earlier reed switch variety to a design more similar to the ABS sensors and RENIX CPS, though the magnet is on the rotor rather than being attached to one end of the inductor core.

So the OSS is also a VSS (in old terms). The ISS is new to me.

Thanks for the reminder why I keep pouring money into my old Renix beasts, LOL!!! Every new year, they just add on more crap to debug and fix, LOL. I see the new TV adds for the Ford lately where the car talks back now, LOL!!!!!!

I still own a dumb cell phone, ROFLMAO!!!!!:yelclap:
 
So the OSS is also a VSS (in old terms). The ISS is new to me.

Thanks for the reminder why I keep pouring money into my old Renix beasts, LOL!!! Every new year, they just add on more crap to debug and fix, LOL. I see the new TV adds for the Ford lately where the car talks back now, LOL!!!!!!

I still own a dumb cell phone, ROFLMAO!!!!!:yelclap:
Pretty much - on a 98-01 there is an ISS, OSS, NSS, and VSS. Confused yet? :confused1

ISS - right at the bellhousing, by the shift linkage. Measures input shaft (after torque converter) RPM
OSS - in the adapter housing or 2wd tailhousing on a 2wd rig. Measures output shaft RPM
NSS - tells you what gear you're in as usual
VSS - on the transfer case tailhousing or 2wd tailhousing on a 2wd rig.

Add that to the CPS/CPK confusion and you have... a jeep.
 
Ok, so latest update. I adjusted the throttle valve cable per spec, it was just barely off. I checked voltage at the middle wire of the TPS, started off at about .8v and worked it's way to 4.8v. Now, when it got to about 3.5v, it had a spot where it dropped a volt. I can't imagine a dead spot in the sensor causing it. I heard there is supposed to be an inline fuse for the TCM, where is that? I found a blown 20 amp fuse in the interior fuse panel with hopes of that being it, but, it was not. I'm trying to find a wiring diagram to check and make sure I have proper power and ground, and double check my solenoid resistance at the TCM. Also, I did a system function test of everything OBD II with my Mac Mentor, it said something about a secondary transmission something or other fault of 33, but can't seem to find a corresponding code anywhere online, thoughts?


Oh, failed to mention the radiator sprung a leak, fml.
 
So here's even more info yet! I checked for power and ground to the TCM, had no battery power from the ignition. Found out the fuse was missing from the fuse panel inside. Great, now I have voltage, should be fixed! Wrong. So I rechecked resistance in the shift solenoids and the TCC solenoid. The lock up solenoid and shift solenoid 1 have 0 ohms, and solenoid 2 shows open. I have a fault for solenoid 2. Does this mean I have a bad set of solenoids, or did something come unplugged inside the tranny pan?
 
Sounds like something is screwy. Those readings are way, way off from what they should be. Should be around 13 ohms each.
 
Well, I could have sworn when I checked the other day I had like 16 ohms on the shift solenoids, didn't think to check the lock up solenoid. But yeah, now I have nothing! Guess I need to drop the pan?
 
Your shift solenoids are shot.
http://www.google.com/search?q=jeep...e7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&ie=&oe=
this is the kit to replace your solenoids. If you get them at other places it costs aloy more. Do all three at once and be done. II had the same problem with my 98 a few months back. I also grabed a spare TCU from the Pick a Part. Mine happened to also be bad. You can read the OHM resistance at the TCU plug under the dash by your right foot or at the plug by the transmission dipstick. I dont have the link handy but search here and its one one with 4 or more pages. Take 2 or less hours to change out the solenoids if you have the kit and fluid handy.
Ron
 
Drop the pan, and test the 3 solenoids directly. The solenoids hould be about 14 ohms across the 2 contacts (but disconnect them from any wiring for this test!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!).

If they are OK, then it is a wiring problem.
 
Pan's down, tested solenoids and shift solenoid B is like 30 mega ohms, other two are 8 - 13 ohms. New solenoids are in, after dinner I'm going to stick the pan back on, fill it up with fluid and see what happens.
 
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