shackle relocation bracket made drive line angle way off

[4.3LXJ]

so now the only thing i would need to figure out is the seal flange for the np231 cuz its a pre 96 model i have the cone type seal that would have to come off.

Any flat spot would do, like the fill plug

 

[drumnerd33]

Any flat spot would do, like the fill plug

Sorry what I meant was for when I install the yoke on the transfer case I would need a way to do the seal

 

[4.3LXJ]

No. The yoke angle will be the same is the full plug. Just use it.

 

[drumnerd33]

Yeah I understand that, what I was talking about was building my own hack and tap kit and what to use for the seal of the output shaft on the t case

 

[RCP Phx]

No. The yoke angle will be the same is the full plug. Just use it.

I wouldnt trust that at all,to many variables plus he's got an aftermarket cover.

Yeah I understand that, what I was talking about was building my own hack and tap kit and what to use for the seal of the output shaft on the t case

Thats why you buy a kit,you still need a place for the seal to go!Did you read this yet?
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm

 

[kastein]

I wouldnt trust that at all,to many variables plus he's got an aftermarket cover.http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm

he is talking about transfer case angle - both of them are as far as I can tell. So yes, the fill plug is a fine reference point.

 

[RCP Phx]

he is talking about transfer case angle - both of them are as far as I can tell. So yes, the fill plug is a fine reference point.

I still wouldn't trust that either,its not like the plug or the threads are machined to be true to the output shaft.Throw the angle finder on the valve cover.

 

[kastein]

I still wouldn't trust that either,its not like the plug or the threads are machined to be true to the output shaft.Throw the angle finder on the valve cover.

Unless they went out of their way to make it not true, it will be true - the casting for the housing is generally milled flat on one surface and that is used as a mount/clamping reference while all the other milling is done. I would be shocked if it was more than a fraction of a degree off.

On the other hand the valve cover as you suggest is held on by a 1/8" thick rubber gasket, rubber bushings, and is pressed pot-metal and likely to be dented or bent, heck I can flex mine by hand. The definition of a lousy point of reference.

 

[drumnerd33]

Ok I understand how to check my angles now the diagrams that 4.3lxj posted make total sense. And I understand where to get my angle from the t-case, what I'm talking about now is the hack and tap sye kit and whether to buy the kit or do it myself, cuz kastein have me the part number on the yoke to do it and I already have a front shaft in my garage all I need to figure out is the seal... So that's my question is do I need to just order the hack and tap kit or can I get the seal from a 96 and up jeep to do it myself? Or can I order the seal kit from somewhere?

 

[kastein]

hmmm... I don't believe you can just get one from a 96 and up jeep, but you can try. I'm fairly certain gojeep covered that but it's been months since I looked at his writeup, will take a look and see if I can find it.

EDIT: his site seems down (at least from my connection) right now, here is a cached copy: http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...231&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-a

To seal the end of the housing, ( for pre 96 models ) I bought the RE1801 kit which gave me the seal housing, drill bits and tap. I then sold it all off minus the seal housing as a 1807 kit to someone with a 96+ Jeep. I have since found out you can buy just the seal housing from Rubicon Express but even better is that Eric Salsman made his own shown above after following this write up to do the conversion. The benefit with his is he made it to take the standard output seal so no problems finding a replacement. He can be contacted for the seal housing as is making some more to sell for others. Will post world wide and be cheaper than buying the RE housing.

Looks like you can get it and throw it all together for pretty cheap this way.

 

[drumnerd33]

Right on that's what I was wondering. Thanks

 

[RCP Phx]

You need something like this,can't say whether it fits the yoke you want to use.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-XHNTSF

 

[92xjunk]

Just order the yoke with bolts, directions, and the seal kit from iron rock off road heres the link
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X_HNT
I got it on my 92 it works great

 

[stroked88]

any one see any problem with swaping in the 96^ guts into my tcase to get the seal on the output shaft? its an 88 231. sorry for the jack, just seemed relevent

 

[kastein]

You'd want to go the other way, swap the 88 input gear (and planetary gear assembly? forget when they changed the cut of the gears) into the 96-up case. 90 down are 21 spline, 91 up are 23 spline, so without swapping this stuff the new case won't fit the old transmission.

If you don't need an SYE bear in mind this may change that, the 96-up design is more prone to vibes.

 

[stroked88]

well the case to the 96^ was broken when i got it so prolly bad idea to swap the internals anyways. but i need to swap the input gear and planetaries because im doing a trans swap (ba 10/5 to ax15) because i didnt get the tcase with the ax15

 

[drumnerd33]

Yea that's the kit I've been looking at from iron rock, well see, I mignt just buy the whole kit from them, theve been good so far I got my steering from them and my track bar and bar pin elimanators and shackles. So far I am very impressed with there stuff

 

[4.3LXJ]

You can just swap the input gear. I have done it. The gear teeth themselves are the same.