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Rocker replacement with box tubes question

obob22

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Wisconsin
I am replacing my existing rockers with some 3x4 square tubing due to rust issues and about 1/2 of the pinch seam is rotted out, and there is not much solid metal left on the existing rockers, what is the best way to handle this?

I was thinking of cutting all the pinch seam out and welding a plate from the 3x4 to where the pinch seam used to be. What could happen if I do this?

I guess another fix may be to weld some angle iron to the non rusted part of the seam and extend the angle past the rotted part.

I just am having nightmares about driving down the road and a 3x4 sammich drops off my Jeep and wipes out my tires, or takes a bounce and destroys someones vehicle.

Its a 99 Cherokee Sport BTW
 
I would just cut out all the rust, level out a spot for the top of your box tubing, weld it all in and make sheet metal patches where necessary.

The pinch seam isn't anything special that I can tell. THe spot welds hold the body together... the seam itself isn't strong enough to stand up for itself.
 
the higher you go the more work and bracing that follows so plan accordingly after your rust removal and decide how you want to boatside/ rocker replace for your wheeling needs...
 
I tied my box tubes in with the sub frame for more strength. The rockers provide a great jack point for the Jeep now. I also plan on using them as air tanks in the future. I ended up taking sheet metal to patch the original rockers up, then I welded the rockers up, but in retrospect, it probably would of worked better to just put the rockers in, then fill the gaps with sheet metal. Just remember to eliminate ALL rust as it is a cancer and if you only remove 90% of it, you can be confident that it will show its ugly face again in time.
 
This is what we did:

Sliders003.jpg



We cut everything out and welded in a 2x6.

There's a bunch more pics here:

I love them.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v171/zealr2/XJ/?start=420
 
zr2toxj i am about to do the replacement and i really like the 2x6 look i was wondering if u ran into any problems and how long it took u?
 
I also did 2x6 rockers. Took maybe 3 hours per side, maybe 4.

The thing I did was to build the rocker first, capping the ends and all, then all I had to do was a little fitting and stitching it to the sheet metal. Weld in your supports and you can move the the other side.

The only issue with fitting is there is a bolt coming from the inside of the Jeep (lower seat belt bolt I think) and you need to cut a hole or make room for it in your 2x6 rocker so it sits flat. A 2 minute fix.
 
For you guys that used 2x6 tubing: what thickness did you use and have you noticed any deformation in the tubing from hitting rocks etc..??
 
For you guys that used 2x6 tubing: what thickness did you use and have you noticed any deformation in the tubing from hitting rocks etc..??

I had mine done by a friend and he used 1/4" wall for mine. Worked out to about 100lbs of steel between the two (50 each side). He added a piece of 1x1" box tube along the front of each 2x6 that stretches over to (and is welded into) the frame rail to reinforce against a hard hit on the very front of the rocker causing deformation in the A-pillar, an enhancement I highly recommend.

I've come down pretty hard on mine a few times since I had it done about 3 years ago (ask some of the NAC guys I wheel with), and haven't been able to bend or deform them - the most I've managed to do is a few scuffs and scrapes, which I sand down and brush over with more RustOleum.


Rob
 
My bigger trail rig has 2x6x1/4. I wanted the overkill so I never have to worry about it and have my cage built off it. It has five 2x2x1/4 support legs. Yes, it adds more wieght but it was worth it to me. My smaller daily driver has dented rockers from wheeling with no protection. I plan on using some 2x6x1/8 with a strip of 2x2x1/8 angle welded to the lower outside edge. I'll use two or three 2x2x3/16 support legs. I figure this will help keep the weight down and, even though I won't be wheeling it that hard, it should still be able to take a good hit.
 
Looks like those were bent up, by the shape ... and the crease you can see at the bend.
 
Sorry I haven't responded recently. Yes, they were bent. The first set he did were pieces cut & welded. I believe 3/16" but I can check with him.
 
2x6x3/16 ftw

From this

3-28-10007.jpg


to this.....

DSC00298.jpg


DSC00302.jpg


1302474614.jpg


DSC00313.jpg


DSC00323.jpg


9-11-11022.jpg




The keys are the strap on the top of the sill, it provides a nice surface to weld to, and the 1X angle to carry the back of the tube spot welded to the unibody. Still have to tie it in, I'm going to cut the remainder of the 2x6 chunks i have and attach them to the unibody.

2012-03-11_17-49-24_294.jpg
 
I did mine just like raypla and never tied them in with extra bracing, just the one long weld across the top. Multiple trips and slams back down on the tube and it doesnt budge. It doesnt have anywhere to go but up and it is snug. I could see more bracing needed if you added kick out tubing and then the whole structure could pivot. Looks good raypla
 
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