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Restoration...

The truck looks to be 100% there, most of the problems are cosmetic. Resto it and enjoy the purity of the original truck.

That ratrod crap is too california and is a passing fad, you will hate it after a while.
 
Rat Rods have been around for ever. They arent going anywhere... with that being said, they certainly arent for everyone.

The rat rod phase has only been in full swing for 10-15 years and only in certain areas. Where Im from very few have a rat rod, they all have resto-mods, restored originals, or full on drag cars. It used to be rare that you would see a rat rod at a cruise night untill the last 2 years and we get people from all over the country.

Rat rods might be around forever but they will start to fade away before to long.

www.awkscht.com
http://wheelsoftime.org/home.shtml
http://www.customrigsmag.com/macungie-truck-show/
 
Made the kids watch "Hollywood Knights" last night. Forgot is was soooo crude. I don't rember it being that way when I saw it on HBO back in the 80's. Maybe it was because I was 13 or so and did not have kids. LOL! Bad ass looking Ford F-100 in there too.
 
The rat rod phase has only been in full swing for 10-15 years and only in certain areas. Where Im from very few have a rat rod, they all have resto-mods, restored originals, or full on drag cars. It used to be rare that you would see a rat rod at a cruise night untill the last 2 years and we get people from all over the country.

Rat rods might be around forever but they will start to fade away before to long.

www.awkscht.com
http://wheelsoftime.org/home.shtml
http://www.customrigsmag.com/macungie-truck-show/

Rat Rods have been around for much longer than that. Its just the past few years they have been more mainstreamed for whatever reason. My pops has owned a hotrod/fab/machine shop for 43 years, and rat rods have been in the mix since before then. You didnt see them at "cruise nights" because they are a different bread of folks. They didnt do car shows, or cruises. Now they do, but not back in the day. A lot of the rat rod guys of today are the same type as the yuppy guys who decided they needed to ride Harleys to have the 'look'. Things have evolved over the years, but rat rods (true rat rods) have been around for a LONG time.

Not that any of it matters. Glenn, do what you want to with it. Just know that unless you are very handy in this type of work, you will spend a lot of money. It doesnt matter which direction you go with it, it will be pricey.

Good luck,

~ Stump
 
Not that any of it matters. Glenn, do what you want to with it. Just know that unless you are very handy in this type of work, you will spend a lot of money. It doesnt matter which direction you go with it, it will be pricey.

Good luck,

~ Stump

Well the goal right now is to stop the decay and see what it needs. From what I hear a carb for starters. Will know more after June 1st or 2nd. I'm hoping I can do a lot of the work to offset some of the cost. Is your dad's shop still open? Is it in Columbia?
 
Well We got her loaded on a trailer today:

51Ford001.jpg


51Ford020.jpg


51Ford021.jpg
 
holy crap that had to suck. Should have had a good "come-a-long"

Nice truck though.

Yea it did. I have a nice farmers sunburn. My nephiew was a great help to get it loaded as were the boys. The rear would only turn if the clutch was pressed in. We had a come-a-long but the cable started to fray.
 
We got her unloaded yesterday after work.... holy cow was that harder. I need some rollers. Took about 2 hours to get off the trailer.

canon049.jpg


Today Little Glenn and I pulled the plugs and put MMO in the cylinders.

canon054.jpg


canon055.jpg
 
We got her unloaded yesterday after work.... holy cow was that harder. I need some rollers. Took about 2 hours to get off the trailer.

WTF man, you're from Florida. You ought to know you just need to wrap a chain around the bumper then around the faucet in the shop and floor the tow rig!
 
WTF man, you're from Florida. You ought to know you just need to wrap a chain around the bumper then around the faucet in the shop and floor the tow rig!

Ahahahahahahaha! :roflmao:
 
A little word to the wise..I've done things like this the majority of my life.

If you want it to last, spend the money and invest in POR-15.

Whenever I do a restoration, or modify any of my vehicles I use their products for rust inhibitors and panel repair. Bar none the toughest stuff I have EVER touched in my life. I use it on all of the frames, and undercarriage stuff. (Chassis black) You can simply roll it on or paint it with a brush.

I have gotten to where I even do the outside of the panels as well, but the trick to that is when you are doing an outside panel you MUST come back as soon as you get done with the panel and shoot it with an epoxy catalyzed primer. I have found out that the POR-15 is VERY hard to sand once it dries, and the more it sits in the sun the harder it gets. So, if you put it on the panel while its wet you get an excellent bond with the por-15 and the catalyzed primer to the sheet metal itself, and if you use a good UPOL high build primer you have plenty of meat to block down. If you are wanting to do a solid restoration on something I highly suggest doing it this way because that thing will be there until this rock we're on is no longer here.

Also, few tips of the trade for por-15. I highly suggest getting the 6-pack of the black material because you will learn a few expensive lessons the hard way. If you get a regular pint or quart can of it, you can only get the lid off 1 time. If there is ANY residue on the edge of the can or the lid and you put that lid back on there you better plan on cutting the lid off of it to get the product out..or jabbing a hole in it.

After you open the stuff up, make sure that you wipe the lid off with acetone, paint thinner etc and put a piece of wax paper over top of the can before you put the lid back on and keep it in the refrigerator. The refrigerator I've learned tends to make the lid easier to get off when you are going to work on it again. Keep in mind where ever you get POR-15, it is there to stay. This includes your skin. Pick up a few packs of the blue gloves and cheap paint brushes at harbor freight and a foam roller when you go to do this stuff and keep a few cans of very hot solvent around because if you get it anywhere you want to be able to get it off immediately. If you get it on your skin and you do not get it off before it dries you will be wearing it for about 2 weeks..it does not come off.

Best of luck with the restoration!
 
I will second the POR-15 advice...

Dan and Jarrad coated a YJ frame for a friend of Jarrad (I built a stroker for it) about 2 years ago. I saw it the other day so I crawled under it and wiped the frame a little and it easily looks as good today as it did the day they put it on. On a side note, they also painted an anvil with it, and even after beating on the anvil, it is still there! No it doesn't look so good now haha, but the stuff doesn't come off.
 
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