replacing the rockers w/ tube steel

[Dirk Pitt]

You gotta stop thinking like a mechanic and start thinking like an engineer... you can make anything fit onto anything given enough time, money, expertise and material. Doing it elegantly and efficiently is what takes real skill and talent. Of course you can turn an XJ into an airboat!

Jesse James did it to a VW bug.

Remember?

 

[Lawn Cher']

Jesse James did it to a VW bug.

Remember?

I refuse to watch that show, or American Chopper. There is no engineering in their work, just well equipped fabricating. And I thought beetles floated from the factory? Where's the challenge in that?

 

[Lawn Cher']

Ft Lauderdale. Going to be going down there to move in next weekend. Where is Inverness?

About 90 miles north of Tampa, right at the end of the FL turnpike. Quiet area, not too far from the gulf.

So you got a place on the Jewish Coast, eh? Shalom! I have more relatives down in that area too.

 

[JEONLYEP]

Of course you can turn an XJ into an airboat! But a MJ would be better since the hatch wouldn't be there to block the airflow into the fan.

I was thinking that the fan goes just inside the hatch. Open hatch, turn on fan, away you go!

Of course, you'd have to run with the windows down so the air could get in. And not have anything light weight lose in the front. But if all else failed, put stacks of paper on the center arm rest and have a confetti blower.

To the original question, I used 3X5 box for mine back to the pinch seam and down from the bottom of the doors.

Not the best photo of them, but you can kinda see where the are.

Daryl

 

[ErikL]

ok, so who wants to come do mine for me? im only in new mexico, its just down the road from all you fellas..... theres nice rocks out here!!

 

[BruteXJ]

JEONLYEP, your door is trying to make me think I like it.

 

[JEONLYEP]

JEONLYEP, your door is trying to make me think I like it.

Thanks, The first one made me think I liked it so much I did one for the other side.

I still have the full doors for bad weather.


PM me if you have any questions.

Daryl

 

[BIG-G]

if you go with tube, remember to keep it open if you do water crossings, it will help against boyancy.. unless you like that, then cap'em like pontoons...
:wave:

I welded in some tubing in my smitty bars for rocker protection. Is this really that much of a concern?

 

[Lawn Cher']

Hello, I'm humor, have we met?

 

[BIG-G]

Hello, I'm humor, have we met?

I got the smitty step bar welded on every seem there is. The hi-lift jack picks it right up.

(ive met humor before)

 

[langer1]

I've decided to cut out the rockers and replace it with some stronger steel. Just a few questions:

Will this be just as strong as conventional bolt on rocker guard?
What size box tubing should I use to keep it looking as close as stock as possible?
Where is the best place to cut out the old rockers?
Is it possible to replace the rockers with round tubing?

Here is step by step with pictures.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/rockers/rockers.htm

 

[myjeepsbigger]

Did mine with 2x5 rect tubing, 2x2 angle on the inside to reinforce, drilled and tapped outer tube w/a dozen 5/16" grade 8's. I think it looks better than stock, but it sure didn't stick out far enough to keep me from blowing out the pass side window while trying to pivot around a tree.

Future plans to tie it to the cage & "frame rails".

 

[Prepmech]

Just an update...
I've got the drivers side rocker cut out, and have begun mocking up the new rockers. Decided to go with 2x4x1/4" tube steel (rounded corners) for the rockers. I'm using a section of 2x2x11ga that runs the full length as a spacer. So far it looks great, but I am still debating how to mount them. I'm going to weld along the top of the rockers to the sheet metal, and use spot welds to the pinch seam as others have done, but I would like to find a way to anchor it to the sill plate area better. I am going to wait on bending the DOM tubing I'm going to use as step bars until I get everything else finished. Pics to come.

 

[Dirk Pitt]

I would like to find a way to anchor it to the sill plate area better.

Liquid nails?

:laugh3:

 

[myjeepsbigger]

Just an update...
I would like to find a way to anchor it to the sill plate area better.

You could run a piece of angle (or a piece of flat iron, if you still have carpet) along the interior side of the sill (where the floorpan turns up vertical), and run bolts to the tubing from the interior of the XJ. The angle (or flat) iron will reinforce the sheetmetal. Drill/tap the tubing. I have mine this way....it's simple, easy and very strong. Don't have any other pics handy, but I could get some this weekend.

 

[Prepmech]

Liquid nails?

:laugh3:

Kinda what I was thinking. They make auto body epoxy that you set, then weld to reinforce it. I figure every little bit helps, but it is pretty expensive. Been talking with the auto-body store, and fastenal guys trying to figure something out.

Myjeepsbigger, if you could, get me some pics... I would really appreciate it. I have also been thinking about using some spot welds in the door sill area.

 

[old_man]

I've used the 2 part panel adhesive from SEM and have the applicator. It works well for sheetmetal but a real hard sharp blow will seperate it. At ColoradoFest several guys had problems with their welded in rock rails. When they landed on them, they rotated and jamed the doors. I'm planning on doing it but I will be reinforcing it back to the frame rails with some heavy duty tubing at about a half dozen places. I want to tie in my exo to the rails.

 

[formatt]

...At ColoradoFest several guys had problems with their welded in rock rails....

I recall one guy. Who else had problems? I've beat the living p!ss out of mine and get nothing more than scratched paint. I also know of several others that have had great success with them.

 

[XJ Lady]

Fortunately my entire underbody has been coated and has NO body rust including the popular spots such as floor pannels and rocker pannels. My stock rockers are now covered in a gloss diamond plated aluminum trim on just the very bottom (about 2") and are solid and also protected by home made rock sliders.