That sucks.I woulda needed a family sized bottle of Xanax..I've had a few large inline 6's on stands with no problems. Has this ever happened to anyone else ?
I had a SBC 355 on a stand for over a year with no issues. Held on with Grade 8 bolts.
That sucks.I woulda needed a family sized bottle of Xanax..I've had a few large inline 6's on stands with no problems. Has this ever happened to anyone else ?
How many wheels on the front of the engine stand?
I had a SBC 355 on a stand for over a year with no issues. Held on with Grade 8 bolts.
At first I though the stand tipped over... but the block just broke in that area?
That makes me feel good, having an engine on a stand, waiting for when I have a few spare days to install it.Correct. The block broke (it had 4 grade 8 bolts connected to it - very solid). Luckily, I had just attached the chains so it didn't get hurt further. When the block broke, the entire engine rotated toward that side but stopped when the chains tightened.
I don't know if you did, but you should have checked oil pump pickup to oil pan clearance.
I don't know if you did, but you should have checked oil pump pickup to oil pan clearance.
Personally I would not lift using the head bolt holes and would have you the head, intake and exhaust manifolds on before I dropped it on.
I found this to be useful when installing the oil pickup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOIhaI3eEog
I got my engine back in a few days ago, good to have it done and running again.
I would like to have a long talk with the engineer who insisted on using inverted torx bolts on the top engine to trans mounting.
A lot of fun to get them out. Removing the engine mounts and then dropping the transmission crossmemeber 2" made all the difference.
I didn't have any problem at all removing those bolts.
I tried that. Didn't work. I had to go but a set of the correct sockets to remove those two stupid bolts. Then I threw them as far as I could and replaced them with real bolts.Once I took the head off I could easily get to them using a 12 point wrench.
x2. I'd rather deal with the manifolds outside of the vehicle. Even removing a head I will pull the head and manifolds as a unit just so I don't have to deal with those bolts when in the vehicle. Its also easier on my back to use a lift for that.Installing the head, valve train, manifolds and engine brackets, with the block already installed, is more than what my back wants to be subjected to..
Thats what she said!!!!The length makes sense.
I tried that. Didn't work. I had to go but a set of the correct sockets to remove those two stupid bolts. Then I threw them as far as I could and replaced them with real bolts.
x2. I'd rather deal with the manifolds outside of the vehicle. Even removing a head I will pull the head and manifolds as a unit just so I don't have to deal with those bolts when in the vehicle. Its also easier on my back to use a lift for that.
Now that I have done it both ways, I would rather assemble the engine on a stand and deal with the two upper bolts, now knowing how to get at them.
Installing the head, valve train, manifolds and engine brackets, with the block already installed, is more than what my back wants to be subjected to.
With the 2001's mini-cats, access to the lower manifold bolts is just about impossible after the engine is installed.
What do you all think of "break in oil" ... a racing buddy suggested Valvoline VR1... thoughts?